Wednesday 17 June 2015

Karakoy: From Old Port to New Port

Karakoy is a district of Beyoglu. It was previously called Galata district. Karakoy is its contemporary name. It has always been used as a port. It is one of the oldest parts of the Istanbul. It was also the financial center of the Ottoman Empire in 19th century. Today it is a popular port among cruise ships and has lots of fine restaurants.

Father and daugther are enjoying the view.

Karakoy is very central. Galata Bridge connects Karakoy with Eminonu, Its neigbours are Azapkapi, Sishane, Tophane, and Yuksekkaldirim, which takes you to Istiklal Street. There is an interesting detail about Karakoy. As I said, it has always been a port. Being a port means sailors. Where there are sailors, there are brothels. The brothel at Karakoy is very near to St. Benoit High School. (Parents periodically react against it.)



History


Karakoy has been used as a port since Byzantian times. The Byzantian Emperor let Genoese merchants reside and work there. So, they made solid buildings to protect themselves and their goods. Almost all the walls they built have been destroyed, but you can still see a massive artifact left: Galata Tower. It been said that by 15th century Galata looked like an Italian city.

After the Conquest of Istanbul in 1453, there were three parts at Galata: Genoese, Venice and Catalan. There were Genoese and Ottoman citizens, Greeks, Armenians, Georgians and Jews. (Edmondo de Amicis writes about this colourful at 1870's.) Later, Muslims outweighed the population.

Stairs to Istiklal Street

After 1500, it welcomed the Sefarads who escaped from the Spanish inquisition. In 1854-1856, it was raid by the Europeans (a united force of British, French and Italian soldiers) who came to fight for Crimea War. The soldiers needed a dock for the new coming equipments, but a dock couldn't be built until 1895.

In 19th century, it became a finance and banking center. Ottoman Bank founded its headquarters here. (You can visit the building which is now used as a museum.) Then Italian and Austrian insurance companies opened branches here. In 20th century, the port was widened, and the district was swarming with sailor and passengers. It was famous for its Greek taverns back then. Thousands of Belarussians who escaped from Russia after the October Revolution in 1917 came here and settled.

Kemankes Mustafa Mosque


Sights


Galata Tower: It is one of the oldest and one of the most fascinating artefacts in Istanbul. You should pay an entrance fee which in my opinion is a little bit more expensive than equivalent places (at least in Europe), but the view is worth it. Galata Tower gives you the chance to see a panoramic view of Istanbul. There is partly an elevator and partly stairs. It has a Romanesque style.


Galata Tower from Karakoy


Galata Bridge: The bridge that connects Karakoy to Eminonu. It is both open for pedestrians and vehicles. (Nice walk, nice view and nice seafood restaurants!) It isn't the first bridge built on the Golden Horn and it won't probably be the last. In 1502-1503, Leonardo da Vinci presented a bridge project to Sultan Bayezid II. But it was rejected. Later, Michelangelo was invited to Istanbul for him to present a project. This time, he rejected the Sultan. This last bridge is the fifth Galata bridge and was finished in 1994.

Galata Bridge

Kamondo Stairs: These twin stairs were built in 1850's in the name of Abraham Salomon Kamondo, a member of one of the most important banker families of the time and also a Sefarad. They are made from marble in art nouveau style. People like to take photos there. You may even see brides and grooms from time to time.

Kamondo Stairs

Banks' Street: Its actual name is Voyvoda Street, but if you ask a local "Where is Voyvoda Street?" you probably won't get an answer. (Voyvoda means "governor, landlord" in Slavic. Vlad III, who is thought to be Dracula, is called Kazikli Voyvoda in Turkish. Kazikli means "piled" which refers to the killing style of Vlad III.) The street begins with Karakoy Street and finishes with Yuksekkaldirim Street. The banks here are Ottoman Bank, Deutsche Bank, Russian Foreign Trade Bank, Bank Athens, Commercial Bank of the Near East Ltd, Sumerbank, Garanti Bank. The insurance companies are also interested. (Generali Passage is one of the prominent buildings.) You may recognise other building with round reliefs on them. They used to show what kind of trade the building owner made. For example, if you see a sheep relief, you have right to think that the original owner used to sell sheep.

Generali Han

Turkish Jewish Museum of 500th Year Foundation: This is fairly a new museum. The foundation was founded in 1989, to celebrate the 500th year of Sefarads' coming to the Ottoman Empire. The museum was opened in 2001. The building was previously Zulfaris Synagogue. It is said that the building existed in 1671 and there is also evidence that it was built upon another building from Genoese time. The museum is mainly in chronological order and there is an etnographic section.

Synagogues: There are many synagogues at Karakoy: Neve Salom Synagogue, Tofre Begadim Synagogue (today, an arts center), Italian Synagogue, Or Hodes Synagogue, Yuksekkaldirim Ashkenazi Synagogue.

Churches: And so are churches. San Petro and Paulo Church, Sankt Georg Church, Saint Michael Church, San Francesco Church, Santa Anna Church, Santa Maria Church, San Domenica Church, San Zoni Church, Surp Sarkis Church (oldest Armenian church at Istanbul, dating back to 1360), Surp Hisus Pirgic Church, Saint Benoit Church (as a part of the school), Galata Bulgarian Church, Haghios Nikolas Turkish Orthodox Church, Haghious Ioannis Assyrian Church.


St. Benoit High School: It is one of the oldest schools in Turkey and one of the most deep-rooted Latin-Catholic institutions in Istanbul. It seems to date back to 1783, but its history actually begins in 1362. You can see some part of the building from Kemeralti Street.

Arabic Mosque: It was previously San Paolo Church. Then it was converted into a mosque after 1453. It is the only Gothic church, remaining before 1453. There are few but important documents that show insight about Gothic history.

Underground Mosque: This mosque took its name for being a little lower than the ground. It is nicely decorated, and I think it has a good atmosphere for worshipping. The place was originally a Byzantine dungeon. It dates back to estimated 570's.

Underground Mosque

Sokullu Mehmet Pasha Mosque: This mosque is situated in Azapkapi neighbourhood. It is made in the name of Sokullu Mehmet Pasha. And the architect is: Mimar Sinan! It was built in the style of Selimiye Mosque at Edirne. (Edirne is one of the best places near Istanbul you can visit for the weekend.

How to get to Karakoy


It is very easy to get to Karakoy, except renting a car. The streets are narrow and there is always traffic (and no parking lots), so I suggest you to use public transportation or your feet. You can walk up to Istiklal Street or use the Tunnel. You can use the tram line to and from Kabatas. You can enjoy the Marmara Sea by getting on the ferries to Kadikoy, and you can feed the seagulls with bagels.

You can see Topkapi Palace from Karakoy.


What to eat at Karakoy


There are many restaurants and cafes at Karakoy. If you walk along the port, you'll see restaurants focusing mainly on seafood. The prices are a little high at some places (In Istanbul, everywhere with a sea view is expensive, get used to it), but I think the service is usually good. If you walk inside and around the small streets, you'll find lots of cosy cafes. Karakoy is the new rival of Istiklal Street.

Some cafés at Karakoy


Where to stay at Karakoy


There are many Karakoy hotels, some of which can be expensive (remember the sea view rule), but if you search enough you may find more budget hotels. You can also stay near Karakoy. Then your options will be Taksim, Eminonu, Besiktas, and even Kadikoy.

Unfortunately this isn't a hotel :)

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