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Showing posts with label arnavutkoy. Show all posts

Tuesday, 7 July 2015

You may hear about two Arnavutkoy's, but don't get confused. Arnavutkoy district and Arnavutkoy neighbourhood are two different things, although the neighbourhood is in the district. Arnavutkoy neighbourhood is on Bosphorus. It is between Kurucesme and Bebek. You can see Kandilli, Uskudar and Vanikoy on the Anatolian coast.

History

Arnavutkoy means "Albanian village" in Turkish, but it almost has nothing to do with Albanians. The original population was mostly Greek. It was actually a Greek village in 16th century. It was famous for its gardens. It continued to be so until 18th and 19th century. Unfortunately, big Istanbul fires affected Arnavutkoy negatively.

You can still see the Greek style old buildings. The neighbourhood lost some of its beauty, after the Greeks fled to Greece due to 6-7 September 1955 incidents, after the apartments started to rise in 1960's and after in a causeway was built in front of the mansions 1980's. (Plus third bridge and third airport...) However, it is still one of the most beautiful districts in Turkey.

Sights

Tevfikiye Mosque: It was ordered by Sultan Mahmut II and was built in 1832. It is a very plain and new looking building, so it may not seem so old at the first look.

Aya Strati Taksiarhi Greek Orthodox Church: The Hellenic church was built at the beginning of 1900's. It is dedicated to the archangel.

Arnavutkoy Police Station: This is also a historical building. It is an elegant old building near the coast.

Robert College: It was founded in 1863 as an American school within Ottoman Empire. In 1871, American Girls' College was also founded. In 1971 Bogazici University was founded on the area of Robert College. Robert Collage was carried to and combined with American Girls' Collage.

Curious Children Kindergarten: It was formerly Arnavutkoy Greek School. You can still see the Hellenic architecture.

Painted Kiosk Pavilion (Izzetpasa Pavilion): The one you'll see today is the replica made in 21th century. The original one was built in 1791. But it burned seven years later. It was demolished i n 1840's, then in 1975. It is the building of Bayraktar building since 1992.

Akintiburnu: It means "the cape with current" in Turkish. It is a little cape in Arnavutkoy. There is a continuous surface current, of which swirls are still a problem for sailors. There is a small lighthouse on it.

What to Eat at Arnavutkoy

Especially near Akintiburnu, there are fancy sea food restaurants where you may want to spend your money, if you can afford. There are also lovely cafés around.

How to Get to Arnavutkoy

Arnavutkoy Port is active throughout the day. You can have a great Bosphorus tour in the ferries that stop by this port. You can also use the bus. However, the traffic jam is very heavy on week ends, because the road is so narrow. If you have time you can at least walk one way to or from Arnavutkoy. The view is so nice that you may not even feel tired.

Tuesday, 19 May 2015

Photos are the witnesses of the moments. Especially old photos tell us much about the past. Istanbul is a fast changing city and the old photos show this apparent dramatic change. As for me, the nature and the architecture were better that days. There are lots of old photos of Istanbul, but I'll share some of the one I found from this link, in order not to lose track: https://eksisozluk.com/entry/49938046

I chose my best places for me, but you can check out other photos on the link.

1. Taksim Square

There are some interesting details in the pictures. You can see that the landscape is much better organized than today's meaningless grey area. You can also see Topcu Kislasi (Barracks), which has been demolished long ago and the government wanted to rebuilt again, demolishing Gezi Park. But the people didn't let the park go.

2. Galata Tower

There are again two things that draw attention. Firstly, Galata Tower doesn't have its conic roof. The first tower dates back to 528 (Byzantian times). In 1348, the Genoese built it with a conic roof. But there was two fires in Istanbul, and it was burned down and restorated. After the roof fly off after a storm, the authorities gave up and built an eighth storey instead. Today it has its roof. Secondly, you may notice the walls at the bottom. Unfortunately, you won't see any of them today. I wish I could say they built better things, but there are only tea houses.

3. Karakoy

Karakoy has changed much, too. The roads are wider, but somehow there are more buildings. The former tram line doesn't work, but there is a longer tram line. Today there is no tram to Tatavla. Tatavla is the former Greek name of Kurtulus district. The pier is pretty much the same, except the huge cruises today. Karakoy is the cruise stop of Istanbul.

4. Sultanahmet

Hagia Sophia is the controversial building of Sultanahmet. It was originally a church and it was rebuilt a couple of times. Then Mehmed conquered Constantinople and turned it into a mosque, covering the frescos. Today it is a museum, and I think so it should be. However, there are disputed again that it should be a mosque (as if Sultanahmet didn't already have a great Blue Mosque).

5. Ayvansaray - Edirnekapi

Ayvansaray is a neigbourhood that is famous for its traditional houses. It is at Edirnekapi, where you can visit Chora Mosque. Edirnekapi was one of the gates of Constantinople. Unfortunately most of the old houses and walls are almost ruins out of neglect. However, Chora Mosque is well preserved with its valuable frescos. Today it is hard to find the museum among the vast of buildings.

6. Kadikoy

Kadıkoy is fairly a newer settlement than the ones at the European coast. People must have thought there was nothing there, but it was a lovely coastal district. Today, it is one of the most crowded districts in Istanbul. And the nostalgic tram is reopened and still operating.

7. Uskudar

Uskudar is also at the Anatolian coast. The Maiden's Tower is still erect with its legends (and its unaffordable restaurant). Watching it and just stepping in is free. You'll see African people in one picture. Unfortunely, they were chosen as servants at that time. The mosque is still there, if you visit Uskudar today.

8. Prince Islands

Prince Islands had much more space and much more green when there was less settlement. However, Buyukada was always more crowded than other islands. The building below is still standing and you can still watch the similar view on the other photo. Today, you can visit all the islands easily. Authorities are planning to open two more islands, Yassiada and Sivriada, to settlement, but the residents of other islands and environmentalist are justifiably opposing.

Istanbul changes so fast that I am doubful about what I write on the blog is still there! I'll keep on writing anyway.

Thursday, 23 April 2015

Between mid-April and mid-May is the time of judas trees for Bosphorus. Their pink blossoms decorate almost every part of each coast. Here are some best parts of Bosphorus where you can find the most pinkish-greenish scenes.

1. Arnavutkoy

Arnavutkoy is a beautiful neighbourhood at Besiktas. It is on the Bosphorus. You can either walk along the coast or climb the slopes. The view is wonderful either way. Arnavutkoy is perfect for unforgettible shots, so get your camera ready!

2. Bogazici University

Bogazici University is a university in Istanbul, probably with the best view. When I was studying there and after my graduation, the south campus could be visited by everyone who wants to enjoy the view. But the last couple of time I went there, they wanted me to show my student ID. (I think it is related with the control mania going through the whole country.) Anyway, you can enter the university either from Rumelihisarustu (upwards) or from Rumelihisari-Bebek (downwards). I prefer to enter from Rumelihisarustu and go out from Bebek.

3. Rumelihisari

Rumeli Hisari is the fortress on the Rumeli side. Rumelihisari is the name of the district. There are beautiful fish restaurants along the coast. You can also have the most scenic breakfast of your time. Turkish breakfast is very rich. Even the meanest breakfast has many varieties.

4. Asiyan

Asiyan is a little bit sad place, because there is a graveyard where precious names from Turkish literature sleep their forever sleep. Istanbul lover Orhan Veli is one of them and you can see his statue on the street side of the graveyard. (You can read a translation of his most famous Istanbul poem.) If you walk upwards the Asiyan Street (or down from Bogazici University), you can reach Tevfik Fikret Museum. The other names in the graveyard that you may be familiar with translated works are Ahmet Hamdi Tanpinar, Edip Cansever, Attilâ Ilhan, Tezer Ozlu and Onat Kutlar.