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Thursday 29 January 2015

Don't Believe Everything You See and Hear About Istanbul

Istanbul may not be the heaven on Earth, but it isn't that hell either. The thing I realize about Istanbul photos that they are mostly from more traditional and conservative sides. The number of women are few or none.

This photo is from Istiklal Street at time time of Gezi Park events. I didn't take close-up photos in order not to include them in any blacklists. The men and women were all together. Istiklal Street has always been and is still so.

All photos below are really gorgeous, but will you notice something missing?

http://www.buzzfeed.com/marietelling/istanbul-is-so-beautiful-it-actually-hurts#.wfd13pZbN

The answer: women! Istanbul can sometimes be a hard place for women, but we are not missing from the public sphere. And we are trying not to.

Those photos were from 2014. These photos are from 1971. Thankfully, there are more women present.

https://yadi.sk/d/uRHhhe8BdSsXW

Here is an older aerial shooting from British Pathé. It is from 1967. On the Galata Bridge, the guy says that there are no women. Today if you walk on the bridge, you won't probably see any women fishing, but there are many women walking, including tourists. That part of Istanbul is usually crowded, and despite a couple of words from some tackless men, it is quite safe.



I accept that recent years have been harder and harder, especially for women, but there is no reason to think that women, especially single women are invisible. You should always be careful, of course. However, except some notorious places, Istanbul is just like other metropoles.

Tuesday 27 January 2015

Elmadag: A Cosy Neigbourhood Near Taksim

Elmadag means "apple mountain" in Turkish. The confines aren't precise, but it is rougly between Harbiye, Taksim and Dolapdere.

Elmadag is very close to Taksim, so it is always popular among tourists, especially among Erasmus students and backpackers. There are many studio apartments, suites and rooms.

Elmadag Street is the next parallel to the Babil Street. There are many beautiful houses in between. Like Nisantasi, Harbiye and Taksim, the buildings are looks more Western. Surp Agop Apartment is one of the best examples you'll see around.

Surp Agop Hastanesi is an Armenian public hospital. I haven't been there yet, but people speak highly of it. So, if you need a hospital (I hope this won't happen), you can try it. However, it is a private hospital. The only public hospital is Sisli Etfal (because Taksim Acil is demolished in order to open space for a mall, and was carried to Gaziosmanpaşa, which has nothing to do with Taksim).


Where is Elmadag?


Elmada is between Harbiye and Taksim. There is directly a bus stop named Elmadag. I think you don't need to get on anything, when you are coming from Taksim. It is just a ten minute walk.

If you're coming from the other directing follow the bus stops: Harbiye, TRT Istanbul Radyosu and there you are, Elmadag.

There is no direct metro station. So, you'll have to walk either from Taksim or from Pangalti/Osmanbey.

Sunday 25 January 2015

St. Esprit Cathedral: Papa Was There

St. Esprit Cathedral resides in Harbiye, on Cumhuriyet Street and next to Babil Street. It had very busy times a couple of months ago, because it hosted Pope Francis.

Today it is surrounded by Notre Dame de Sion High School. The entrance is from Cumhuriyet Street side. It has a lovely yard and a Papa XV. Benedictus statue on it. If you walk the rear street, the Papa Roncalli Street, you can see the bell tower. (The Vatican Consulate is also on the Papa Roncalli Street.)



The construction started in 1845 and the cathedral was open to worship in 1846. The architect is Gaspard Fossati. The cathedral was damaged by an earthquake in 1865. There is an underground grave, which was active until 1927. The grave of Giuseppe Donizetti, who founded Mizika-i Humayun (a military band), is there.



How to go to St. Esprit Cathedral?


It is very easy to visit St. Esprit. It resides in a beautiful district with convenient transportation. There is the bus stop, TRT Istanbul Radyosu, just in front of the high school. If you come from Taksim, you'll have to cross the road. If you come from Mecidiyekoy, you'll be there. You can also walk to and from Taksim, Nisantası, Tesvikiye, Macka and even Besiktas.

If possible, don't miss the Sunday service!


Friday 23 January 2015

Tunel: The World's Second Oldest Tunnel at Taksim

Tunel means tunnel in Turkish, but it has come to define especially this particular one. It is actually a funicular line between Taksim and Karakoy. The journey takes 1,5 minutes, but add a couple of minutes for the passengers to get in and get off.



It is the second oldest (1875) underground line after the London Underground (1863). It was built in Moresque style. I like the colours and the patterns. In 1910 the electrical system became operational. There was originally two parallel lines. Today it has only one line with a short double section. When the two trains come side by side, you can see other passengers.

If you have the lungs, I'll recommend you walk the Yuksek Kaldirim Street, which inspired the famous poet Orhan Veli Kanik. His poem was sung by Levent Yuksel, if you like to listen modern Turkish pop.

Where is Tunel?


Tunel is at the Pera part of Taksim, on the other end of the Istiklal Street other than the Taksim Square. You can get on it either from Karakoy or from Taksim. There are three options for you to reach there: on foot, by tram and by the underground passage of the metro to Sishane.


Tuesday 20 January 2015

From Genoese to Turkey: Galata Tower

Galata Tower is one of the oldest and one of the most fascinating artefacts in Istanbul. You should pay an entrance fee which in my opinion is a little bit more expensive than equivalent places (at least in Europe), but the view is worth it. Galata Tower gives you the chance to see a panoromic view of Istanbul. There is partly an elevator and partly stairs. It has a Romanesque style.

There is also a fun fact about the tower: When you climb it for the first time, be careful who you are climbing with, because s/he may be your future spouse. Believe it or not...

The view from a street of Galata.


History


There was an older tower that was closer to the sea, but the one standing today is relatively newer than that. The older tower was built by the Byzantines, and was destroyed by Latin crusaders in 1204. This Galata Tower was built by the Genoese at a nearby place. It was the biggest building of its time. But it didn't stay as it is. Actually it was looked after well, but it was probably unlucky. It was burned, rebuilt. The conical roof flew away with a storm, rebuilt.

Most of its history is interesting, but the most interesting moment is probably the moment Hezarfen Ahmet Celebi flew with his artificial wings from one continent to another (Galata to Uskudar) in circa 1630-1632. (His brother is Lagari Hasan Celebi, who is also an interesting historical figure.)

Where is Galata Tower?


It is very easy to go to the Galata Tower. You can use the Tunel from Karakoy and walk a couple of minutes. You can come from Taksim Squre on foot (recommended), by nostalgic tram (meh, just take photos of it), and the metro (the walk from underground to Sishane, preferable if the weather is bad). Walk straight from the Tunnel and keep looking for the first square. There stands the tower.

There used to be the youth sitting and chatting at the bottom of it, but the municipality didn't like the liveliness and instead, sold the area to a private tea house. However, you can see and hear "the rebels" sing and chat against all odds.

Sunday 18 January 2015

5 Places to Have a Great Valentine's Day in Istanbul

There is only one month left before the Valentine's Day. If you don't have any plans, or are planning to visit Istanbul for the day, we have some destination suggestions to make the best of your time.

1. Buyukada


Buyukada is one of the Prince Islands. Actually it is the biggest one. It is rather calm at week days. At weekends, you can escape the crowd by visiting the upper part. You have three transportation choices: coaches, bikes and feet. Coaches may sound romantic, but the horses are working unfortunately too hard and the prices are somewhat high. You can rent a bike, but it is hard to bike upwards. My favourite choise is walking. You can enjoy the air, the blue sea, old houses, flowers and trees.

And Buyukada hotels...I have stayed at three different hotels at different times. If you don't want to walk much, pick a hotel that is near the port. If you have courage to climb a slope, then you can find hotels with an overview of the Marmara Sea. The one I stayed was restorated old mansion with a spectacular view and a great breakfast.



2. Taksim


Taksim would be a good choice for city lovers. If you like liveliness, that's the place. Istiklal Street is the street that never sleeps, so it won't take you long to find pubs and restaurants. Taksim Square is the most probable candidate for being the center of Istanbul. There you can use buses or the metro.

Taksim hotels are mostly beautiful and central. However, being central may bring the price up. Compare the hotels and distances. Istanbul usually have a heavy and sometimes unexpected traffic jam, so staying in the heart of the city can be advantageous.



3. Sultanahmet


Sultanahmet is the old city of Istanbul. Sultanahmet seems to me as a more religious place, but of course, it is highly touristic and there are many luxurious hotels that accept couples without any question. You can add a sightseeing tour to your romantic day.

Sultanahmet hotels, like Taksim hotels, can be also expensive, and again compare the prices. There are also hostels and pensions that may be lovely and cosy.



4. Bosphorus


The views from Bosphorus can turn an ordinary day into a romantic one. Bosphorus refers to a long coast, so you have many options both on the European side and the Asian side. The picture below is from Arnavutkoy. On the European side, there are Bebek, Kurucesme, Arnavutkoy, Tarabya, Istinye, Yenikoy, Rumelihisari, Baltalimani, Sariyer; on the Asian side there are Kuzguncuk, Beylerbeyi, Cengelkoy, Kanlica.

Bosphorus hotels vary by styles and prices. The idea is usually that if you are close to the coast, the prices are higher. It isn't hard to walk to the coast, so you can try hotels that are somewhat inside. You can stay at Besiktas hotels or Kadikoy hotels. They are close to Bosphorus, and have more options for backpackers or students.



5. Polonezkoy


Polonezkoy, previously Adampol, is in Beykoz. In the end of 1800's, Polish exiles settled in here. Polish traditions are still continued, and in the spring they have a cherry festival. Poloneykoy is one of the most natural places you can find in Istanbul. That is partly because it is far from the center. Public transportation may be tricky, so if you can, renting a car is a better solution.

Polonezkoy hotels are just inside this serene atmosphere. It is one of the best romantic places of Istanbul. I haven't stayed overnight here, but based on the unique environment of the district, I don't think the hotels and pensions will disappoint their visitors.



Quick tip: It is better to book a hotel from a trustable website than randomly book one when you come. You won't probably have a problem to find a room, but some hotels want marriage licence. If you don't have one, they don't accept you as costomers.(It happened to me once, and it is one of the most irritating things in the world.)

Wednesday 7 January 2015

How is the Weather in Istanbul

One of the first things that a traveller checks is probably the weather. Luckily, the weather in Istanbul usually isn't harsh. Keep in mind that humidity lasts for four seasons, because it is surrounded by Marmara Sea and Black Sea. If you are disturbed by humid weather in some way, take proper precautions, then everything will be allright.

Spring


Spring is my favorite season in Istanbul. Trees start to blossom, the sky is bright blue and the air is fresh. The typical spring scene in Istanbul is the pink blossom of judas trees all around. Especially the view from Bosphorus is spectacular. Spring is ideal for long walks along the European or the Anatolian coast. The angle of the sun is the best for photography. By this time, don't forget to visit the Prince Islands. The weather is usually warm and it doesn't rain much (particularly due to global warming, the spring period is getting shorter).



Summer


Summer is the time of sea! Istanbul hava some beautiful beaches (some of them aren't so clean, beware). You can try Kilyos, Sile and the Prince Islands. In my opinion, Kilyos beaches are the best, given the golden sands and the services. (You can see a relatively old photograph from Kilyos). The Prince Islands are in Marmara Sea, whereas Kilyos and Sile are in Black Sea. Marmara Sea has more dirt, but Black Sea can get crazy from time to time (thankfully, not frequently in summer). The weather is getting hotter every year. The experts say that it is half tropical now. Be careful about your time under the sun, especially if you have a light skin.



Autumn


Autumn feels like a sad season, because everything starts to fade away. However, it is also a feast of colours: greens, browns, reds, yellows, oranges... Although it may be rainy from time to time, you can take fantastic photos and walk along the coasts. It isn't chilly almost until the end of October, so feel free to wander around. If warm weather disturbs you, autumn will be a better option for you.



Winter


Istanbul doesn't have harsh winters, so you can conveniently do a city tour. The prices will fall down after autumn, which means you have a chance to make a cheaper holiday. It is true that Turkey is having hard times recently, but I must admit that I see more and more tourists, including winter. Every season has its beauty and Istanbul is no exception!


Monday 5 January 2015

The Old City of Istanbul: Sultanahmet

Istanbul is different than the European cities. It has several centers and the attractions are scattered all around the city. However, the best possible option for the old city is generally the historical peninsula (which includes Sultanahmet, Eminonu, Karakoy), and particularly the Sultanahmet district.

Sultanahmet has a very old and interesting history. It was used by the Ottoman people and the sultans as a center of trade and socialization. Today when some old people say "I'm going to Istanbul", they mean the historical peninsula.

Where is Sultanahmet?


Sultanahmet is in Fatih, but you won't need to visit Fatih's center. Shortly: On the north, Binbirdirek (where the cistern is). On the west, Kucuksayasofya (Small Hagia Sophia, there is also a sight with the same name). On the east, Cankurtaran (near the archaelogical museum, there are traditional old houses. Also on the east, Bosphorus. It is also near Cagaloglu, which was the heart of book market, before the big bookstores, the internet and the e-book. And near Gulhane, where Gulhane Park, Topkapi Palace and Istanbul Archaelogical Museum are.

It is very easy to go there, transportaion means are vast. The easiest way to Sultanahmet is the Kabatas tram. You'll get of the tram at Sultanahmet station. There are also English announcements in the tram. When you hear the sexy voice saying Blue Mosque, you are there. If you get off on the wrong stop, don't worry. The distances are reasonable, so you can easily walk back and by that time you can look around you. If you like, you can walk from Eminonu, Sirkeci and Karakoy. If you walk from Karakoy, you will walk on the Galata Bridge. There you can see the part of the Golden Horn.

What is in Sultanahmet?


1. Sultanahmet Square


The most famous part of Sultanahmet is Sultanahmet Square. In the Byzantium area, it was known as Hippodrome, which means the area of horses and riders. The Ottamans used to call it "the Horse Square". There are many sight there (to be elaborated below), including three obelisks, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, German Fountain, and many traditional shops reminiscent of the old market place.

2. Hagia Sophia


Hagia Sophia has always been an important religious center. It was built as a church. After the Conquest of Istanbul, it was converted into a mosque. Today it is a museum, but there are disputes that it should be a museum and be open to worship. But I think it should stay as a museum, or should be a church, as it used to be. (There are enough mosques and the splendid Blue Mosque is already a few meters far.)

This Hagia Sophia is actually the third one. Previous two were destroyed during the riots. There are some marble ruins from the second one. Hagia Sophia had many fresks, but they were covered with Islamic symbols, when it converted into a mosque. The red stone which gives the masterpiece its colour was brought from Egypt (green from Greece, white marble from Marmara Island of Balikesir, yellow from Syria, black from Istanbul). Hagia Sophia's architecture is creative for its time. Different solutions were tried to hold the huge dome. 



This is a newer photo.

3. Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)


Sultan Ahmet Camii, or Blue Mosque, was ordered by the Ottoman Sultan Ahmed I and the architect was Sedefkar Mehmet Aga. It is called the Blue Mosque, because it was (and is) decorated with blue, green and white tiles, and the big and the half domes were decorated with mainly blue engravings. One of the most important things about it is that there are 20.000 Iznik tiles in it. There are buildings adjacent to it: madrasahs, shops, Turkish baths, fountains, graves, etc. It is actually one of the biggest complexes in Istanbul.



4. Yerebatan Sarnici (Basilica Cistern)


As mentioned above, this is not exactly on Sultanahmet Square, but it is so close that I have never felt it belongs to somewhere else than Sultanahmet. It is the biggest closed cistern in Istanbul. It is from Byzantian time. You get in from a small building on the west of Hagia Sophia. You have to pay for the ticket, because today it is a museum, not a cistern as before. There are two Medusa heads inside, one is upside down. There are differently decorated columns. A single unique, green column is called the teardrop stone. People put their thumb on it, make a full circle while making a wish. There is a restaurant and small souvenir shops down there, but they may be a little pricy. Some people throw changes into the low water in order to make their wishes come to true. It is totally up to you. Beware, the humidity can be problematic for asthma patients.

5. Alman Cesmesi (German Fountain)


German Fountain is situated opposite of the tomb of Ahmed I. This fountain was actually brought from Germany. The marbles and precious stones were brought in pieces and brought together in Istanbul. It is a present of Wilhelm. Its style is Neo-Byzantian. It is decorated with golden mosaics on the inside. There are Ottoman inscription on the fountain.



6. Obelisk of Theodosius


When you say "dikilitas (obelisk)" at Sultanahmet, people will directly understand this one, although there are two more. It was brought from Egypt by the Roman Emperor Theodosius I in 390 AC. This magnificent obelisk has great hieroglyphs on it. The obelist stands on 4 columns over a stone block. The block has reliefs on two sides, and Greek and Latin inscriptions on the other two sides.



7. Serpent Column


This is one of the oldest artifacts from Hippodrome that has endured -at least, partly. It originally had three serpent heads at the top. But today all are broken and only one of them is displayed at Istanbul Archaelogical Museum. It was made after the victory of Greek cities against Persian army in 479 BC, and it was erected at Apollo Temple in Dephi. Emperor Constantine brought the obelisk to Istanbul in 324. It was thought to have magical powers, such as protecting the city against insects and reptiles.



8. Walled Obelisk (Constantine Obelisk)


This 32 meter obelisk will immediately get your attention. Constantine VII ordered it to be restorated, but as its date is unknown, the obelisk has been attributed to him since 10th century. It is thought to be coated with gilded bronze plaques and to have a sphere at the top.



9. Firuz Aga Mosque


This mosque was ordered by Firuz Aga, the chief keeper of treasury of Bayezid II. It dates back to 1491. It was built in Bursa style. It has a single minaret on the left.

10. Museums


Such a historical place like Sultanahmet cannot be thought without museums. My favorite is Turkish-Islamic Arts Museum. It is very well arranged and you can see important historical works of art from different dates. There are calligraphy, rugs and tiles. The building was built in 1524 and was then the palace of Pargali Ibrahim Pasha (at the time of Suleiman the Magnificent). Great Palace Mosaic Museum is at Arasta Bazaar. The entrance is a little hidden compared to other museums. The mosaics are from the Great Palace of Constantinople, which is unfortunately destroyed except a few pieces.



What About Gulhane?


Gulhane is actually is another district, but it is very close to Sultanahmet and an old city tour cannot be thought without it. Therefore I will mention there shortly. Gulhane Park is one of the city parks of Istanbul, like Gezi Park. In the park, you can visit Istanbul Museum of History of Science and Technology in Islam. The museum is well organized, but have in mind to see almost no original pieces.

Topkapi Palace is world famous. It is huge, so spare at least half a day to see the whole palace. It has different parts that may not be open when you go. Some parts may demand extra fee than the one you pay at the enterance, such as the treasury and the harem. Topkapi Palace also houses the fourth biggest diamond in the world, the Spoonmaker's Diamond. Remember, Topkapi Palace isn't in Topkapi. Topkapi is an utterly differet district where there are mainly industrial stuff (and no attractions at all).



Istanbul Archaelogical Museums have three parts that are together on a big area: Archaelogical Museum (main building), Museum of the Ancient Orient, and the Museum of Islamic Art. It was founded by the famous painter and museum curator Osman Hamdi Bey. These are one of my favourites around the world. It is one of the biggest museums in the world, indeed.



What to eat at Sultanahmet?


The first thing you'll be told is "Sultanahmet meatball". One restaurant is the original one, but it is always so crowded that you can try the other one that makes also good meatballs in a traditional atmosphere. You can eat the traditional dishes and drink the traditional drinks, but some restaurants may be pricy due to the touristic rush. I also like boiled or grilled corn sold by peddlars. Don't forget to compare the prices. There are also restaurant chains that can be found anywhere in Istanbul. I'd rather to try traditional tastes. You can check the restaurant from the apps you have on you mobile phone, if you cannot trust where you are about to sit.



What to buy from Sultanahmet?


The rule is also applicable here: compare the prices. There are many souvenir shops with lots of traditional stuff. Don't look so eager and don't hesistate to bargain. Pretend to be going away. The prices will probably fall down. Carpets are very widespread, but handwoven ones may really be expensive. If you don't understand whether the carpet is handwoven or not, it is possible that you buy a machine-woven carpet at the price of a handwoven one. In my opinion, if you are not a passionate collector, try little souvenirs, like magnets and postcards that are cheaper and safer.


A cat sleeping on the products of a traditional store.



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