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Showing posts with label karakoy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label karakoy. Show all posts

Tuesday, 7 July 2015

Eminonu: Bazaars, Spices and Traditions

Eminonu is a neighbourhood of Fatih. It is on the East of the Golden Horn. It is inside the walls of the old city. Its neighbours are Sirkeci, Karakoy and Suleymaniye. Istanbul Ticaret University has a campus here and Istanbul Chamber of Commerce is also here.

History


Byzantium is thought to cover the area where today surroundings of Topkapi Palace, Sarayburnu and Sirkeci. At Ottoman times, it continued to be a port of trade. Due to the new ships and Sirkeci Station that started to operate, and Ottoman porte was carried to Cagaloglu. The center of Istanbul was still here. (Some old people still say "I am going to Istanbul" out of habit, referring to this area. It sounds strange to new generations.) After the republic was founded, roads were built and new transportation means were put into service. Today it is one of the most crowded areas of Istanbul.

New Mosque closer

Sights


New Mosque (Yeni Cami): It was laid in 1587 and was opened to worship in 1665. The mosque is very famous, because it is a part of Istanbul silhouette. Yeni Cami is very large with its building and yard that is flocked with pigeons.


Egyptian Bazaar (Misir Carsisi): This historical bazaar is behind Yeni Cami. It is mainly famous for its herbalists and souvenirs. My father used to work there and I've been there many time since childhood. Unfortunately modern malls that provide diversity in products and prices have negative effects on tradespeople.


Great Post Office (Büyük Postane): This is the biggest and the most historical post office of Turkey. The construction began in 1905 and the building was ready in 1909. Between 1927 and 1936, it was used as Istanbul Broadcasting House (but today it is at Harbiye). It is very close to the Egyptian Bazar and Yeni Cami.


Rustem Pasha Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii): This mosque is at Tahtakale, which I'll tell you about below. The architect of this mosque is Mimar Sinan! The completion date is written as 1562, but it may be between 1562 and 1564.


Hidayet Mosque: This mosque was built in 1814. It was wooden at first, but architect Alexandre Vallaury rebuilt it in 1887. The mosque is on Yalikosku Street, which is close to the coast.



Ahi Celebi Mosque: This mosque is behind Istanbul Ticaret University and close to Galata Bridge. Rumour has it that famous traveller Evliya Celebi had seen his dream that revealed him to travel at the rest of his life.

Galata Bridge: It connect Eminonu with Galata. It has two floors and you can walk on either of them. The view of the Golden Horn is spectacular. There are cosy sea food restaurants at the bottom floor.


Tahtakale and Mahmutpasa: These are actually two separate streets, but they serve similar purposes. You can find cheap stuff like fabrics, clothes, shoes, kitchen utensils, toys, and so on. Some of those are local, and some others are "made in China".

Food and drink


If you are into traditional food and drinks, Eminonu is the right place among some others (Sultanahmet, Beyazit, etc.). Beware of "too cheap" places due to hygienic concerns, but if you have a strong stomach like me, you don't have to worry much. You won't probably find alcoholic drinks at most places. You can try the fish of the restaurants of Galata Bridge, where you can also find alcoholic drinks.

How to get to Eminonu


It is very easy to get to Eminonu. You won't probably deal with the traffic, unless you travel with car. One of the stops of Kabatas-Bagcilar tram line is Eminonu. Sirkeci port is just a few minutes away, so you can easily come from Uskudar or Kadikoy, if you are staying at Anatolian coast.

Where to stay at Eminonu


It is hard to find many Eminonu hotels, some of which are luxurious. There are some hostels around. Sultanahmet has more hotels with different prices. You can look for the hotels, according to the stops of the tram line. Kadıkoy also has many budget hotels.

Thursday, 2 July 2015

Tophane: Ottoman Industrial Area, Now A Lovely Neighbourhood


Tophane is a coastal neighbourhood at Beyoglu. It is between Findikli and Kabatas. It is famous for its view, modern museum and university facilities.

History


Before Istanbul was conquered by Turks, Tophane was an idle place out of Genoese walls of Galata for some writers, and was covered with woods for some other writers. Its former name is also controversial. It was said that the name was Metopon at Byzantian times, but newer researches claim that its name was Argyropolis (Silver City) due to its beautiful view. It is also claimed that there was a very old temple of Apollo, then the Church of St. Irene or Hadrian and Nathalie. After armoury buildings and barracks were demolished, some remains were found near the spot where Nusretiye Mosque stands.

Sights


Nusretiye Mosque: It is also called "Tophane Mosque" by locals. It was built in 19th century with the edict of the sultan. The architect is Krikor Balyan, who is one of the brothers of the famous Armenian Balyan family. It is one of the biggest mosques outside the old city.


Istanbul Modern Museum: This is the first modern art museum in Turkey. It was opened in 11 December 2004. There are beautiful exhibitions in it and sometimes movie days are held. It has a restaurant with a spectacular Bosphorus view, so don't miss it.


Tophane-i Amire building: Once upon a time, armoury used to be produced here. There were lots of armoury building at other cities than Istanbul. Today the building is owned by Mimar Sinan University. There also held good exhibitions.


Tophane Pavilion: It is next to Nusretiye Mosque. It is one of the important elements of former Tophane square. Sultan Abdulhamit made the mosque built by architect William James Smith in 1852. The pavilion hosted many important visitors.


Tophane Fountain: It was built in 1732. For it was built at the reign of Mahmut I, it is also known as Khan Mahmut I Fountain. It is the third biggest fountain in Istanbul. It is also the highest walled fountain in the city.


Kılıç Ali Paşa Camii: Here is another work of Mimar Sinan. It was built in 1580. The mosque is a small replica of Hagia Sophia. It was built in the name of Admiral in Chief, Kılıç Ali. It is very close to Tophane Fountain and next to Tophane tram stop.

An interesting anecdote: The writer of Don Quixote, Miguel de Cervantes, worked at the construction of this mosque.


You can also walk up the hill and savour the view. There are beautiful old houses on the streets.

Food and drink


There are beautiful restaurants at Tophane. As I said before, Istanbul Modern also has a restaurant, but it may be a little bit more expensive than the ones who aren't on the coast. There are cosy cafés famous for their hookas.

How to get to Tophane?


It is very easy to get to Tophane. There is a Tophane stop at the Kabatas-Bagcilar tram. You can also walk there from Karakoy or Kabatas.

Where to stay at Tophane?


Tophane has many hotel options. You can also book suits and residences. You'll probably find accommodation with a wide range of prices.

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Karakoy: From Old Port to New Port

Karakoy is a district of Beyoglu. It was previously called Galata district. Karakoy is its contemporary name. It has always been used as a port. It is one of the oldest parts of the Istanbul. It was also the financial center of the Ottoman Empire in 19th century. Today it is a popular port among cruise ships and has lots of fine restaurants.

Father and daugther are enjoying the view.

Karakoy is very central. Galata Bridge connects Karakoy with Eminonu, Its neigbours are Azapkapi, Sishane, Tophane, and Yuksekkaldirim, which takes you to Istiklal Street. There is an interesting detail about Karakoy. As I said, it has always been a port. Being a port means sailors. Where there are sailors, there are brothels. The brothel at Karakoy is very near to St. Benoit High School. (Parents periodically react against it.)



History


Karakoy has been used as a port since Byzantian times. The Byzantian Emperor let Genoese merchants reside and work there. So, they made solid buildings to protect themselves and their goods. Almost all the walls they built have been destroyed, but you can still see a massive artifact left: Galata Tower. It been said that by 15th century Galata looked like an Italian city.

After the Conquest of Istanbul in 1453, there were three parts at Galata: Genoese, Venice and Catalan. There were Genoese and Ottoman citizens, Greeks, Armenians, Georgians and Jews. (Edmondo de Amicis writes about this colourful at 1870's.) Later, Muslims outweighed the population.

Stairs to Istiklal Street

After 1500, it welcomed the Sefarads who escaped from the Spanish inquisition. In 1854-1856, it was raid by the Europeans (a united force of British, French and Italian soldiers) who came to fight for Crimea War. The soldiers needed a dock for the new coming equipments, but a dock couldn't be built until 1895.

In 19th century, it became a finance and banking center. Ottoman Bank founded its headquarters here. (You can visit the building which is now used as a museum.) Then Italian and Austrian insurance companies opened branches here. In 20th century, the port was widened, and the district was swarming with sailor and passengers. It was famous for its Greek taverns back then. Thousands of Belarussians who escaped from Russia after the October Revolution in 1917 came here and settled.

Kemankes Mustafa Mosque


Sights


Galata Tower: It is one of the oldest and one of the most fascinating artefacts in Istanbul. You should pay an entrance fee which in my opinion is a little bit more expensive than equivalent places (at least in Europe), but the view is worth it. Galata Tower gives you the chance to see a panoramic view of Istanbul. There is partly an elevator and partly stairs. It has a Romanesque style.
Galata Tower from Karakoy
Galata Bridge: The bridge that connects Karakoy to Eminonu. It is both open for pedestrians and vehicles. (Nice walk, nice view and nice seafood restaurants!) It isn't the first bridge built on the Golden Horn and it won't probably be the last. In 1502-1503, Leonardo da Vinci presented a bridge project to Sultan Bayezid II. But it was rejected. Later, Michelangelo was invited to Istanbul for him to present a project. This time, he rejected the Sultan. This last bridge is the fifth Galata bridge and was finished in 1994.

Galata Bridge

Kamondo Stairs: These twin stairs were built in 1850's in the name of Abraham Salomon Kamondo, a member of one of the most important banker families of the time and also a Sefarad. They are made from marble in art nouveau style. People like to take photos there. You may even see brides and grooms from time to time.

Kamondo Stairs

Banks' Street: Its actual name is Voyvoda Street, but if you ask a local "Where is Voyvoda Street?" you probably won't get an answer. (Voyvoda means "governor, landlord" in Slavic. Vlad III, who is thought to be Dracula, is called Kazikli Voyvoda in Turkish. Kazikli means "piled" which refers to the killing style of Vlad III.) The street begins with Karakoy Street and finishes with Yuksekkaldirim Street. The banks here are Ottoman Bank, Deutsche Bank, Russian Foreign Trade Bank, Bank Athens, Commercial Bank of the Near East Ltd, Sumerbank, Garanti Bank. The insurance companies are also interested. (Generali Passage is one of the prominent buildings.) You may recognise other building with round reliefs on them. They used to show what kind of trade the building owner made. For example, if you see a sheep relief, you have right to think that the original owner used to sell sheep.

Generali Han

Turkish Jewish Museum of 500th Year Foundation: This is fairly a new museum. The foundation was founded in 1989, to celebrate the 500th year of Sefarads' coming to the Ottoman Empire. The museum was opened in 2001. The building was previously Zulfaris Synagogue. It is said that the building existed in 1671 and there is also evidence that it was built upon another building from Genoese time. The museum is mainly in chronological order and there is an etnographic section.

Synagogues: There are many synagogues at Karakoy: Neve Salom Synagogue, Tofre Begadim Synagogue (today, an arts center), Italian Synagogue, Or Hodes Synagogue, Yuksekkaldirim Ashkenazi Synagogue.

Churches: And so are churches. San Petro and Paulo Church, Sankt Georg Church, Saint Michael Church, San Francesco Church, Santa Anna Church, Santa Maria Church, San Domenica Church, San Zoni Church, Surp Sarkis Church (oldest Armenian church at Istanbul, dating back to 1360), Surp Hisus Pirgic Church, Saint Benoit Church (as a part of the school), Galata Bulgarian Church, Haghios Nikolas Turkish Orthodox Church, Haghious Ioannis Assyrian Church.


St. Benoit High School: It is one of the oldest schools in Turkey and one of the most deep-rooted Latin-Catholic institutions in Istanbul. It seems to date back to 1783, but its history actually begins in 1362. You can see some part of the building from Kemeralti Street.

Arabic Mosque: It was previously San Paolo Church. Then it was converted into a mosque after 1453. It is the only Gothic church, remaining before 1453. There are few but important documents that show insight about Gothic history.

Underground Mosque: This mosque took its name for being a little lower than the ground. It is nicely decorated, and I think it has a good atmosphere for worshipping. The place was originally a Byzantine dungeon. It dates back to estimated 570's.

Underground Mosque

Sokullu Mehmet Pasha Mosque: This mosque is situated in Azapkapi neighbourhood. It is made in the name of Sokullu Mehmet Pasha. And the architect is: Mimar Sinan! It was built in the style of Selimiye Mosque at Edirne. (Edirne is one of the best places near Istanbul you can visit for the weekend.

How to get to Karakoy


It is very easy to get to Karakoy, except renting a car. The streets are narrow and there is always traffic (and no parking lots), so I suggest you to use public transportation or your feet. You can walk up to Istiklal Street or use the Tunnel. You can use the tram line to and from Kabatas. You can enjoy the Marmara Sea by getting on the ferries to Kadikoy, and you can feed the seagulls with bagels.

You can see Topkapi Palace from Karakoy.


What to eat at Karakoy


There are many restaurants and cafes at Karakoy. If you walk along the port, you'll see restaurants focusing mainly on seafood. The prices are a little high at some places (In Istanbul, everywhere with a sea view is expensive, get used to it), but I think the service is usually good. If you walk inside and around the small streets, you'll find lots of cosy cafes. Karakoy is the new rival of Istiklal Street.

Some cafés at Karakoy


Where to stay at Karakoy


There are many Karakoy hotels, some of which can be expensive (remember the sea view rule), but if you search enough you may find more budget hotels. You can also stay near Karakoy. Then your options will be Taksim, Eminonu, Besiktas, and even Kadikoy.

Unfortunately this isn't a hotel :)

Tuesday, 19 May 2015

Some Old Photos of Istanbul That Will Make You Yearn For the Past

Photos are the witnesses of the moments. Especially old photos tell us much about the past. Istanbul is a fast changing city and the old photos show this apparent dramatic change. As for me, the nature and the architecture were better that days. There are lots of old photos of Istanbul, but I'll share some of the one I found from this link, in order not to lose track: https://eksisozluk.com/entry/49938046

I chose my best places for me, but you can check out other photos on the link.

1. Taksim Square 


There are some interesting details in the pictures. You can see that the landscape is much better organized than today's meaningless grey area. You can also see Topcu Kislasi (Barracks), which has been demolished long ago and the government wanted to rebuilt again, demolishing Gezi Park. But the people didn't let the park go.



2. Galata Tower


There are again two things that draw attention. Firstly, Galata Tower doesn't have its conic roof. The first tower dates back to 528 (Byzantian times). In 1348, the Genoese built it with a conic roof. But there was two fires in Istanbul, and it was burned down and restorated. After the roof fly off after a storm, the authorities gave up and built an eighth storey instead. Today it has its roof. Secondly, you may notice the walls at the bottom. Unfortunately, you won't see any of them today. I wish I could say they built better things, but there are only tea houses.



3. Karakoy


Karakoy has changed much, too. The roads are wider, but somehow there are more buildings. The former tram line doesn't work, but there is a longer tram line. Today there is no tram to Tatavla. Tatavla is the former Greek name of Kurtulus district. The pier is pretty much the same, except the huge cruises today. Karakoy is the cruise stop of Istanbul.



4. Sultanahmet


Hagia Sophia is the controversial building of Sultanahmet. It was originally a church and it was rebuilt a couple of times. Then Mehmed conquered Constantinople and turned it into a mosque, covering the frescos. Today it is a museum, and I think so it should be. However, there are disputed again that it should be a mosque (as if Sultanahmet didn't already have a great Blue Mosque).



5. Ayvansaray - Edirnekapi


Ayvansaray is a neigbourhood that is famous for its traditional houses. It is at Edirnekapi, where you can visit Chora Mosque. Edirnekapi was one of the gates of Constantinople. Unfortunately most of the old houses and walls are almost ruins out of neglect. However, Chora Mosque is well preserved with its valuable frescos. Today it is hard to find the museum among the vast of buildings.



6. Kadikoy


Kadıkoy is fairly a newer settlement than the ones at the European coast. People must have thought there was nothing there, but it was a lovely coastal district. Today, it is one of the most crowded districts in Istanbul. And the nostalgic tram is reopened and still operating.



7. Uskudar


Uskudar is also at the Anatolian coast. The Maiden's Tower is still erect with its legends (and its unaffordable restaurant). Watching it and just stepping in is free. You'll see African people in one picture. Unfortunely, they were chosen as servants at that time. The mosque is still there, if you visit Uskudar today.




8. Prince Islands


Prince Islands had much more space and much more green when there was less settlement. However, Buyukada was always more crowded than other islands. The building below is still standing and you can still watch the similar view on the other photo. Today, you can visit all the islands easily. Authorities are planning to open two more islands, Yassiada and Sivriada, to settlement, but the residents of other islands and environmentalist are justifiably opposing.



Istanbul changes so fast that I am doubful about what I write on the blog is still there! I'll keep on writing anyway.

Friday, 23 January 2015

Tunel: The World's Second Oldest Tunnel at Taksim

Tunel means tunnel in Turkish, but it has come to define especially this particular one. It is actually a funicular line between Taksim and Karakoy. The journey takes 1,5 minutes, but add a couple of minutes for the passengers to get in and get off.



It is the second oldest (1875) underground line after the London Underground (1863). It was built in Moresque style. I like the colours and the patterns. In 1910 the electrical system became operational. There was originally two parallel lines. Today it has only one line with a short double section. When the two trains come side by side, you can see other passengers.

If you have the lungs, I'll recommend you walk the Yuksek Kaldirim Street, which inspired the famous poet Orhan Veli Kanik. His poem was sung by Levent Yuksel, if you like to listen modern Turkish pop.

Where is Tunel?


Tunel is at the Pera part of Taksim, on the other end of the Istiklal Street other than the Taksim Square. You can get on it either from Karakoy or from Taksim. There are three options for you to reach there: on foot, by tram and by the underground passage of the metro to Sishane.

Monday, 1 December 2014

Gezi Park: The Rebellious Park of Istanbul

Gezi Park would probably be just another park in a city, if it hadn't hosted the greatest "social" demonstration in the history of Turkey. "It all started with a tree", you would hear. But when the police used disproportionate force against peaceful protesters who wanted to protect Gezi Park from becoming barracks, things went crazy. For a couple of months, flying gas canisters were a usual scene from Taksim to Galata and to Harbiye, and also at Kadikoy. It is worth to remind that despite fierce political sayings, the park is still there, safe and sound, and I'm glad to tell you about it.



The History of Gezi Park


When you see Gezi Park, you may find it small in comparision with other parks at other big cities in the world. But the park's newly assigned historical significance makes it larger than life. However, it doesn't mean the only historical memory of the park.

Let's start with earlier records. The area including Gezi Park, Divan Hotel (the hotel next to the park that let the protestors in when the violence was at its peak), Hyatt Regency Hotel, and some parts of Istanbul Radyoevi (broadcasting house) and Harbiye Orduevi (military museum and cultural center of command) was Pancaldi Armenian Graveyard, or Surp Agop Graveyard. (Surp Agop Apartment still exists, but the hospital was demolished last year and the apartment serves as a polyclinic. The graveyard being at the opposite of the hospital was plausible indeed.) The land was given to Armenians in about 1560, when there was a plague. From then on, it was used as a graveyard.

At that time, Pancaldi, Harbiye and Elmadag was considered as being outside the city. The "core" Istanbul was approximately the part where today Eminonu, Karakoy, Galata and Pera (the far end of Istiklal Street). So, the dead was allowed to be buried only outside Istanbul. In 1853, it was confined with walls. In 1856, the name plate was put. In 1865, with the cholera epidemic, burial processes were banned due to its "proximity" to the city. (Things change.)

In 1872, the municipality comandeer the area but Sultan Abdulaziz enacted an addict announcing it belonged to Armenians. In 1926, the burial processes were entirely banned and it was decided that the graveyard was to be transferred to some other place. In 1931, Istanbul Municipality that the land should be assigned to it. The case was closed in 1934 and the large part was given to the municipality. In 1938, it was announced that the graveyard would be demolished and fifteen days were given to transfer the graves, if interested.

The yellow building is Divan Hotel.

In 1939, the graveyard was totally demolished, along with Khor Virap Church. The gravestones were used for the stairs of Yeni Cami (New Mosque) in Eminonu, and for the stairs of Gezi Park, which was being built at that time.

Let's move to another historical part. In 1806, Halil Pasa Topcu Kislasi (Halil Pasha Artillery Barracks) was built at today's Gezi Park. At 31 March Incident, it became the headquarters of rebels who were -in brief- in favour of sharia, and against more liberal policies of Ittihak Terakki Cemiyeti, Party of Union and Progress. (Maybe, things never change.) The rebellion was suppressed by the army.

As Beyoglu (the district which also comprises Taksim, in case you're confused) developed towards Sisli, the barracks lost its function and it became a stadium in 1922. Henry Proust, the controversial city planner, offered authorities a plan that involved Nisantasi, Harbiye, Dolmabahce and Gezi Park. In 1940, after the stadium was demolished, Gezi Park became the first park of the Republic (of which steps were carried from the demolished graveyard).

Well, it isn't a coincidence for Gezi Park to host such heated protests.

Those were the days, my friend.


Where is Gezi Park?


Gezi Park is stuated close to Taksim Square, which is unfortunately a big gray gap nowadays. If you put Taksim on your front, the left road will take you to Macka and ultimately to Besiktas or Kabatas. The right road will take you to Elmadag and Harbiye with a ten minute walk, or Nisantasi with a fifteen minute walk. If you like, you can take the metro from Taksim and go to Osmanbey (adjecent to Nisantasi), Sisli, Mecidiyekoy and further stations.

The bus stations were carried under ground to save Taksim from traffic (and probably with frustration due to the cancellation of "new Taksim" plan). It's a little tricky right now. If you want to get on the buses which passes from Besiktas (and to the coastline, that is Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Tarabya, Sariyer, etc., or the Anatolian coast, that is Kadikoy, Bostanci, etc.), you should walk left from the Gezi Park for a while to reach the bus station next to Ataturk Library. If you like to get on a bus which passes from Sishane (to Karakoy, Eminonu, Aksaray, Beyazit, Laleli, Bayrampasa Main Bus Station, Ataturk International Airport, etc.), you should walk down to the station which has an entrance facing Gezi Park. It seems complicated at the first time. It really is. Once I gave up to meet my friend at Kadikoy.

As I mentioned above, Gezi Park is relatively small. You can walk around in ten minutes at best. However, if you sit on a bench or cobblestones, it will take hours to contemplate on its history.
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