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Showing posts with label istiklal street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label istiklal street. Show all posts

Wednesday, 22 July 2015

A Practical Route for Visitors Who Have Only One Full Day to Spent in Istanbul


Not all of us have much time to spend in a city. Istanbul, is both luckily and unfortunately is a complicated city with lots of sights. However, I'll offer you a one-day-route that will make possible for you the say "I visited Istanbul".

So, let's begin.


First stop: Historical Peninsula


Before we start the tour: Choose your hotel wisely. Sultanahmet hotels have many choices, but you can try Beyazit or Laleli, which are also close so that you won't spend much time on the way to Sultanahmet.

If you try to visit every single of the museums at Sultanahmet, a whole day wouldn't be enough for you. So, if you aren't into archaeology, you may not insist to visit Istanbul Archaeological Museums (though, I would never recommend you to skip it). Both Istanbul Archaeological Museums and Topkapi Palace take at least three hours with even fast pace.


Keep in mind that Istanbul is a very crowded city with locals and tourists, so you may have to wait in the long queues. Basilica Cistern is one of the places you should visit, and it takes really short time, but it has a limited capacity that causes long queues.

Don't skip Hagia Sophia ever. It also won't take much of your time. You can add your tour Sultanahmet Mosque, or the Blue Mosque, as you probably know it. If you have time, you can add Hagia Irene to your plan.

Don't forget to walk former Hippodrome arena. There you have three columns to see: Obelisk of Theodosius, Serpent Column, and Walled Obelisk. And a fountain: German Fountain.

If you are lucky and you managed to visit those places until 2 or 3 o'clock. You may hurry to see the Museum of Great Palace Mosaics, and Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum.


Second stop: Istiklal Street


You shouldn't be too late for Istiklal Street, because there also museums and churches to visit there. I suggest you to start from Galata, so you can finish your tour on Taksim Square. Then if you should get going, you'll be only five minutes walk to Havatas buses, which takes you to either Ataturk International Airport, or Sabiha Gokcen International Airport.

If you have time and energy, you can walk down from Sultanahmet, passing from Gulhane, Sirkeci, Eminonu, and Karakoy. You can stop by the New Mosque and the Egyptian Bazaar at Eminonu. The Grand Bazaar will take longer when you walk, but if you are staying at a Beyazit hotel, you may put it first on your list before Sultanahmet.

You can also directly take the tram to Karakoy. Then if you take the historical Tunnel, you'll miss Galata Tower and the Mawlawi House Museum. The way up to the Istiklal Street from Karakoy is a little bit steep. You can also walk down after the Tunnel, but you'll have to walk the half way again. Choose how you like it.


Istiklal Street is mainly famous for its restaurants and bars that obviously get better after evening. So, you don't have to hurry to eat and drink something. Sights first! Then, you'll relax.

Just walk slowly in order not to miss the obvious sights. There are many sights on side streets, but we'll focus on the main street for the sake of time. The Church of St. Mary Draperis will be on the right and it won't take much of your time. You also need to hurry to see the Church of St. Anthony of Padua, which is on your way on the right. You should plan accordingly.



Istiklal Street is also famous for its passages, so you may see a couple of them. Hacopulo Passage is one of the most famous and cosiest passages around. So, you may take a tea break there, and may be you may find some souvenirs.

Asmalimescit, Algerian Street, and the Flower Passage are beautiful places, but you may only take photos of their facades, and return later for food and drink. You may finish your tour with Holy Trinity Church and Taksim Square (and maybe additionally Gezi Park, if you're interested).

P.S.: If you have to days, you may try this solution: for one day Sultanahmet and for the other day Istiklal Street. Have fun!

Thursday, 2 July 2015

Tophane: Ottoman Industrial Area, Now A Lovely Neighbourhood


Tophane is a coastal neighbourhood at Beyoglu. It is between Findikli and Kabatas. It is famous for its view, modern museum and university facilities.

History


Before Istanbul was conquered by Turks, Tophane was an idle place out of Genoese walls of Galata for some writers, and was covered with woods for some other writers. Its former name is also controversial. It was said that the name was Metopon at Byzantian times, but newer researches claim that its name was Argyropolis (Silver City) due to its beautiful view. It is also claimed that there was a very old temple of Apollo, then the Church of St. Irene or Hadrian and Nathalie. After armoury buildings and barracks were demolished, some remains were found near the spot where Nusretiye Mosque stands.

Sights


Nusretiye Mosque: It is also called "Tophane Mosque" by locals. It was built in 19th century with the edict of the sultan. The architect is Krikor Balyan, who is one of the brothers of the famous Armenian Balyan family. It is one of the biggest mosques outside the old city.


Istanbul Modern Museum: This is the first modern art museum in Turkey. It was opened in 11 December 2004. There are beautiful exhibitions in it and sometimes movie days are held. It has a restaurant with a spectacular Bosphorus view, so don't miss it.


Tophane-i Amire building: Once upon a time, armoury used to be produced here. There were lots of armoury building at other cities than Istanbul. Today the building is owned by Mimar Sinan University. There also held good exhibitions.


Tophane Pavilion: It is next to Nusretiye Mosque. It is one of the important elements of former Tophane square. Sultan Abdulhamit made the mosque built by architect William James Smith in 1852. The pavilion hosted many important visitors.


Tophane Fountain: It was built in 1732. For it was built at the reign of Mahmut I, it is also known as Khan Mahmut I Fountain. It is the third biggest fountain in Istanbul. It is also the highest walled fountain in the city.


Kılıç Ali Paşa Camii: Here is another work of Mimar Sinan. It was built in 1580. The mosque is a small replica of Hagia Sophia. It was built in the name of Admiral in Chief, Kılıç Ali. It is very close to Tophane Fountain and next to Tophane tram stop.

An interesting anecdote: The writer of Don Quixote, Miguel de Cervantes, worked at the construction of this mosque.


You can also walk up the hill and savour the view. There are beautiful old houses on the streets.

Food and drink


There are beautiful restaurants at Tophane. As I said before, Istanbul Modern also has a restaurant, but it may be a little bit more expensive than the ones who aren't on the coast. There are cosy cafés famous for their hookas.

How to get to Tophane?


It is very easy to get to Tophane. There is a Tophane stop at the Kabatas-Bagcilar tram. You can also walk there from Karakoy or Kabatas.

Where to stay at Tophane?


Tophane has many hotel options. You can also book suits and residences. You'll probably find accommodation with a wide range of prices.

Monday, 29 June 2015

Room Escape Games in Istanbul

I have an urge to escape


I've always loved to play room escape games on web or on mobile. Finding secret objects, solving puzzles, racing against time... And one day I learned that I could really be the one who is trying to escape the room!

Room escape games are very trendy in Istanbul. I knew only a couple of them, so I searched for them at the Internet. You'll have to make reservations in advance and ask for the prices.

ISTrapped


I guess this is the first room escape game in Istanbul (but not the last). I, my sister and a friend of hers tried this, and liked it very much. I won't give any spoiler, only two adjective to define it: mysterious and nostalgic. I think you should try it at least once. It is in an old beautiful building at Asmalimescit, close the Tunnel and Istiklal Street.

Escapist


I haven't been to Escapist (yet). It is very close to my office, so I see its plate almost everyday at Trump Towers Mall. This one is the biggest room game in Istanbul. You have six options here: company, secret experiment, on the trail of past, sacred treasure, the key of Agatha, abandoned.

Tuzak


European coast is always faster to adopt novelties, but Anatolian coast keeps up with them soon. Tuzak is a room escape game at Kadıkoy. It is very close to the bull statue. This time you aren't trying to escape from a room, you are trying to escape from a hotel, Hotel California.

Numara13


It is claimed to be one of the best and the most spooky room escape games in Istanbul. Its story is based on a real story, which makes it more interesting.

Defuse the Bomb


This is slightly different from other room escape games. I guess it feels like you have a part in a TV series. I don't know what happens, if you cannot find the bomb!

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Karakoy: From Old Port to New Port

Karakoy is a district of Beyoglu. It was previously called Galata district. Karakoy is its contemporary name. It has always been used as a port. It is one of the oldest parts of the Istanbul. It was also the financial center of the Ottoman Empire in 19th century. Today it is a popular port among cruise ships and has lots of fine restaurants.

Father and daugther are enjoying the view.

Karakoy is very central. Galata Bridge connects Karakoy with Eminonu, Its neigbours are Azapkapi, Sishane, Tophane, and Yuksekkaldirim, which takes you to Istiklal Street. There is an interesting detail about Karakoy. As I said, it has always been a port. Being a port means sailors. Where there are sailors, there are brothels. The brothel at Karakoy is very near to St. Benoit High School. (Parents periodically react against it.)



History


Karakoy has been used as a port since Byzantian times. The Byzantian Emperor let Genoese merchants reside and work there. So, they made solid buildings to protect themselves and their goods. Almost all the walls they built have been destroyed, but you can still see a massive artifact left: Galata Tower. It been said that by 15th century Galata looked like an Italian city.

After the Conquest of Istanbul in 1453, there were three parts at Galata: Genoese, Venice and Catalan. There were Genoese and Ottoman citizens, Greeks, Armenians, Georgians and Jews. (Edmondo de Amicis writes about this colourful at 1870's.) Later, Muslims outweighed the population.

Stairs to Istiklal Street

After 1500, it welcomed the Sefarads who escaped from the Spanish inquisition. In 1854-1856, it was raid by the Europeans (a united force of British, French and Italian soldiers) who came to fight for Crimea War. The soldiers needed a dock for the new coming equipments, but a dock couldn't be built until 1895.

In 19th century, it became a finance and banking center. Ottoman Bank founded its headquarters here. (You can visit the building which is now used as a museum.) Then Italian and Austrian insurance companies opened branches here. In 20th century, the port was widened, and the district was swarming with sailor and passengers. It was famous for its Greek taverns back then. Thousands of Belarussians who escaped from Russia after the October Revolution in 1917 came here and settled.

Kemankes Mustafa Mosque


Sights


Galata Tower: It is one of the oldest and one of the most fascinating artefacts in Istanbul. You should pay an entrance fee which in my opinion is a little bit more expensive than equivalent places (at least in Europe), but the view is worth it. Galata Tower gives you the chance to see a panoramic view of Istanbul. There is partly an elevator and partly stairs. It has a Romanesque style.
Galata Tower from Karakoy
Galata Bridge: The bridge that connects Karakoy to Eminonu. It is both open for pedestrians and vehicles. (Nice walk, nice view and nice seafood restaurants!) It isn't the first bridge built on the Golden Horn and it won't probably be the last. In 1502-1503, Leonardo da Vinci presented a bridge project to Sultan Bayezid II. But it was rejected. Later, Michelangelo was invited to Istanbul for him to present a project. This time, he rejected the Sultan. This last bridge is the fifth Galata bridge and was finished in 1994.

Galata Bridge

Kamondo Stairs: These twin stairs were built in 1850's in the name of Abraham Salomon Kamondo, a member of one of the most important banker families of the time and also a Sefarad. They are made from marble in art nouveau style. People like to take photos there. You may even see brides and grooms from time to time.

Kamondo Stairs

Banks' Street: Its actual name is Voyvoda Street, but if you ask a local "Where is Voyvoda Street?" you probably won't get an answer. (Voyvoda means "governor, landlord" in Slavic. Vlad III, who is thought to be Dracula, is called Kazikli Voyvoda in Turkish. Kazikli means "piled" which refers to the killing style of Vlad III.) The street begins with Karakoy Street and finishes with Yuksekkaldirim Street. The banks here are Ottoman Bank, Deutsche Bank, Russian Foreign Trade Bank, Bank Athens, Commercial Bank of the Near East Ltd, Sumerbank, Garanti Bank. The insurance companies are also interested. (Generali Passage is one of the prominent buildings.) You may recognise other building with round reliefs on them. They used to show what kind of trade the building owner made. For example, if you see a sheep relief, you have right to think that the original owner used to sell sheep.

Generali Han

Turkish Jewish Museum of 500th Year Foundation: This is fairly a new museum. The foundation was founded in 1989, to celebrate the 500th year of Sefarads' coming to the Ottoman Empire. The museum was opened in 2001. The building was previously Zulfaris Synagogue. It is said that the building existed in 1671 and there is also evidence that it was built upon another building from Genoese time. The museum is mainly in chronological order and there is an etnographic section.

Synagogues: There are many synagogues at Karakoy: Neve Salom Synagogue, Tofre Begadim Synagogue (today, an arts center), Italian Synagogue, Or Hodes Synagogue, Yuksekkaldirim Ashkenazi Synagogue.

Churches: And so are churches. San Petro and Paulo Church, Sankt Georg Church, Saint Michael Church, San Francesco Church, Santa Anna Church, Santa Maria Church, San Domenica Church, San Zoni Church, Surp Sarkis Church (oldest Armenian church at Istanbul, dating back to 1360), Surp Hisus Pirgic Church, Saint Benoit Church (as a part of the school), Galata Bulgarian Church, Haghios Nikolas Turkish Orthodox Church, Haghious Ioannis Assyrian Church.


St. Benoit High School: It is one of the oldest schools in Turkey and one of the most deep-rooted Latin-Catholic institutions in Istanbul. It seems to date back to 1783, but its history actually begins in 1362. You can see some part of the building from Kemeralti Street.

Arabic Mosque: It was previously San Paolo Church. Then it was converted into a mosque after 1453. It is the only Gothic church, remaining before 1453. There are few but important documents that show insight about Gothic history.

Underground Mosque: This mosque took its name for being a little lower than the ground. It is nicely decorated, and I think it has a good atmosphere for worshipping. The place was originally a Byzantine dungeon. It dates back to estimated 570's.

Underground Mosque

Sokullu Mehmet Pasha Mosque: This mosque is situated in Azapkapi neighbourhood. It is made in the name of Sokullu Mehmet Pasha. And the architect is: Mimar Sinan! It was built in the style of Selimiye Mosque at Edirne. (Edirne is one of the best places near Istanbul you can visit for the weekend.

How to get to Karakoy


It is very easy to get to Karakoy, except renting a car. The streets are narrow and there is always traffic (and no parking lots), so I suggest you to use public transportation or your feet. You can walk up to Istiklal Street or use the Tunnel. You can use the tram line to and from Kabatas. You can enjoy the Marmara Sea by getting on the ferries to Kadikoy, and you can feed the seagulls with bagels.

You can see Topkapi Palace from Karakoy.


What to eat at Karakoy


There are many restaurants and cafes at Karakoy. If you walk along the port, you'll see restaurants focusing mainly on seafood. The prices are a little high at some places (In Istanbul, everywhere with a sea view is expensive, get used to it), but I think the service is usually good. If you walk inside and around the small streets, you'll find lots of cosy cafes. Karakoy is the new rival of Istiklal Street.

Some cafés at Karakoy


Where to stay at Karakoy


There are many Karakoy hotels, some of which can be expensive (remember the sea view rule), but if you search enough you may find more budget hotels. You can also stay near Karakoy. Then your options will be Taksim, Eminonu, Besiktas, and even Kadikoy.

Unfortunately this isn't a hotel :)

Sunday, 8 February 2015

Taksim Square: The Most Political Square of Istanbul

Taksim Square is the most political square of Istanbul. The writer David Harvey says that a city cannot be without a square. The square is like the heart of a city that pomps blood to the rest of the city and streets. Taksim Square became a square with the Turkish Republic. Although Sultanahmet Square is the oldest square in Istanbul, Taksim breasts the protest for various reasons.

Every side of the square opens to a nice district. One street to Cihangir, one street to Elmadag-Harbiye, one street to Gumussuyu, one street to Macka and one street to Sishane. Gezi Park is the park that accompanies the square. The square beared witness to many protests and events throughout its history (some of which unfortunately ended bitterly). But buildings before history.



Taksim Maksemi


It is on the beginning of the Istiklal Street. Taksim means "distribution", maksem means "water reserve" in Turkish. The aim of the building was to create a solution to the water problem that arose from the increasing population. The construction operations had started in the reign of Ahmed III, but they had to be suspended because of Patrona Halil Riot. Mahmud I led the building finish. Today it is used as an exhibition hall. It usually host nice exhibitions, so I recommend you to visit the place.


Republic Monument


This was made by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. It was finished in 1928. The pedestal and the landscaping design belongs to Guilio Mongeri. The monument was brought from Rome to Istanbul by ship. It rests on a circular landscape. One side depicts The War of Independence, the other side depicts the new Turkish Republic. Today it is a famous ceremony and meeting point (with alway waiting some police cars waiting next to it).



Ataturk Cultural Center (AKM)


This is an unfortunate building. It is closed since 2008, but I wanted to mention it anyway. It is the big black building that will immediately catch your eye. Its name was originally Istanbul Cultural Palace in 1969. It was then the fourth biggest cultural center in the world. The performances included opera, balet, theatre, concert, and congress until 2008. In 2005, the culture minister of the time claimed that the building completed its time, but there were so many protests that the demolishment had to be cancelled in 2007. Since then there are rumours that it will be reconstructed, but neither it seems possible, nor we believe that it will be used as a cultural center again.



The Marmara Taksim Hotel


Before the hotel, there was a 19th century baroque mansion that was assigned to the French general manager of the Ottoman Bank. It was put into servise in 1976. There is a rumour that, on May 1st, 1977, aka the Bloody May 1st, there were shootings from upstairs. It was Etap Marmara Hotel then. Todaay it's a luxurious hotel which doesn't probably appeal to backpackers and students. (I'll try to ask for the price of its fitness center, anyway.)

Taksim Square, along with Gezi Park, was mentioned in June 2013 events. Under the name of the Pedestrianization Project, it was decided that the Taksim Square should be reconstructed, including the demolishment of Gezi Park, and rebuilding of Topcu Kislasi (Taksim Military Barracks). The plan backfired, but the Taksim Square is a big, grey, aimless and untended square since then. Again, there are rumours that there will be arrangements when the spring comes. We'll the what the spring brings.



History


At the beginning, the city hadn't reached the area of Taksim Square yet. The Grand Rue de Péra (Istiklal Street) ended, and the rest began. The area didn't even have a path to walk. There were sparse trees. There was an enormous graveyard (Ayaspasa Graveyard) then. The AKM part hosted Muslim graves, the Gezi Park part hosted Armenians graves. The Armenian graveyard is carried to Sisli-Mecidiyekoy today (and along with other graveyards, it is the only green area of Mecidiyekoy). The idea was then to bury the death, especially the plague victims to a remote place.

The Taksim Maksemi was put into service in 18th century, and it carried water from Belgrade Forests on Catalca Peninsula to Istiklal Street over Levent-Mecidiyekoy. Taksim Hazinesi (treasury) was built at the same date, and it was used as a water reserve.

Topcu Kislasi (Taksim Military Barracks) was on the area where Gezi Park is now. There were barns on the area of AKM. The empty space on the opposite of the Barracks was talimhane, meaning training area for soldiers. (Today it is Talimhane, which is famous for its hotels.) Ayaspasa Graveyard began to be removed part by part, first for Gumussuyu Military Hospital (built for the soldiers in Mecidiye Barracks, now Istanbul Technical University Taskisla Building).

One of the events that the building witnessed was 31 March Incident. The soldiers revolted against their officers, shoting "we want sharia!" In 20's and 30's, the building was emptied and was used as a stadium. Ayaspasa Graveyard was fully demolished by then. Taksim Military Barracks was demolished in 1940. After that, Gezi Park was built and it is still there.



Where is Taksim Square


Taksim Square is in Beyoğlu district, and is near the Istiklal Street. You can use the metro of which main station was Taksim, but now it is connected to Yenikapi line. By that line, you can go as far as Ataturk International Airport. Another line goes to Osmanbey, Mecidiyekoy, Levent, until Haciosman.

There is a bus line almost to everywhere in Istanbul. Bus stops were carried underground, and some lines were separated. If you like to go towards Sishane (Aksaray, Bakirkoy, etc), you will go underground and wait for the bus to come. If you like to go towards Besiktas (Arnavutkoy, Sariyer, etc), you will walk on the street that leads to Macka. After a couple streets, you will see the Ataturk Library on the right. The buses are waiting on the area in front of the library. (By the way, it is the biggest library in Istanbul.)

Monday, 1 December 2014

Gezi Park: The Rebellious Park of Istanbul

Gezi Park would probably be just another park in a city, if it hadn't hosted the greatest "social" demonstration in the history of Turkey. "It all started with a tree", you would hear. But when the police used disproportionate force against peaceful protesters who wanted to protect Gezi Park from becoming barracks, things went crazy. For a couple of months, flying gas canisters were a usual scene from Taksim to Galata and to Harbiye, and also at Kadikoy. It is worth to remind that despite fierce political sayings, the park is still there, safe and sound, and I'm glad to tell you about it.



The History of Gezi Park


When you see Gezi Park, you may find it small in comparision with other parks at other big cities in the world. But the park's newly assigned historical significance makes it larger than life. However, it doesn't mean the only historical memory of the park.

Let's start with earlier records. The area including Gezi Park, Divan Hotel (the hotel next to the park that let the protestors in when the violence was at its peak), Hyatt Regency Hotel, and some parts of Istanbul Radyoevi (broadcasting house) and Harbiye Orduevi (military museum and cultural center of command) was Pancaldi Armenian Graveyard, or Surp Agop Graveyard. (Surp Agop Apartment still exists, but the hospital was demolished last year and the apartment serves as a polyclinic. The graveyard being at the opposite of the hospital was plausible indeed.) The land was given to Armenians in about 1560, when there was a plague. From then on, it was used as a graveyard.

At that time, Pancaldi, Harbiye and Elmadag was considered as being outside the city. The "core" Istanbul was approximately the part where today Eminonu, Karakoy, Galata and Pera (the far end of Istiklal Street). So, the dead was allowed to be buried only outside Istanbul. In 1853, it was confined with walls. In 1856, the name plate was put. In 1865, with the cholera epidemic, burial processes were banned due to its "proximity" to the city. (Things change.)

In 1872, the municipality comandeer the area but Sultan Abdulaziz enacted an addict announcing it belonged to Armenians. In 1926, the burial processes were entirely banned and it was decided that the graveyard was to be transferred to some other place. In 1931, Istanbul Municipality that the land should be assigned to it. The case was closed in 1934 and the large part was given to the municipality. In 1938, it was announced that the graveyard would be demolished and fifteen days were given to transfer the graves, if interested.

The yellow building is Divan Hotel.

In 1939, the graveyard was totally demolished, along with Khor Virap Church. The gravestones were used for the stairs of Yeni Cami (New Mosque) in Eminonu, and for the stairs of Gezi Park, which was being built at that time.

Let's move to another historical part. In 1806, Halil Pasa Topcu Kislasi (Halil Pasha Artillery Barracks) was built at today's Gezi Park. At 31 March Incident, it became the headquarters of rebels who were -in brief- in favour of sharia, and against more liberal policies of Ittihak Terakki Cemiyeti, Party of Union and Progress. (Maybe, things never change.) The rebellion was suppressed by the army.

As Beyoglu (the district which also comprises Taksim, in case you're confused) developed towards Sisli, the barracks lost its function and it became a stadium in 1922. Henry Proust, the controversial city planner, offered authorities a plan that involved Nisantasi, Harbiye, Dolmabahce and Gezi Park. In 1940, after the stadium was demolished, Gezi Park became the first park of the Republic (of which steps were carried from the demolished graveyard).

Well, it isn't a coincidence for Gezi Park to host such heated protests.

Those were the days, my friend.


Where is Gezi Park?


Gezi Park is stuated close to Taksim Square, which is unfortunately a big gray gap nowadays. If you put Taksim on your front, the left road will take you to Macka and ultimately to Besiktas or Kabatas. The right road will take you to Elmadag and Harbiye with a ten minute walk, or Nisantasi with a fifteen minute walk. If you like, you can take the metro from Taksim and go to Osmanbey (adjecent to Nisantasi), Sisli, Mecidiyekoy and further stations.

The bus stations were carried under ground to save Taksim from traffic (and probably with frustration due to the cancellation of "new Taksim" plan). It's a little tricky right now. If you want to get on the buses which passes from Besiktas (and to the coastline, that is Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Tarabya, Sariyer, etc., or the Anatolian coast, that is Kadikoy, Bostanci, etc.), you should walk left from the Gezi Park for a while to reach the bus station next to Ataturk Library. If you like to get on a bus which passes from Sishane (to Karakoy, Eminonu, Aksaray, Beyazit, Laleli, Bayrampasa Main Bus Station, Ataturk International Airport, etc.), you should walk down to the station which has an entrance facing Gezi Park. It seems complicated at the first time. It really is. Once I gave up to meet my friend at Kadikoy.

As I mentioned above, Gezi Park is relatively small. You can walk around in ten minutes at best. However, if you sit on a bench or cobblestones, it will take hours to contemplate on its history.

Tuesday, 18 November 2014

The Street That Never Sleeps: Istiklal Street

Istiklal Street, or Istiklal Avenue, is between the Taksim Square and the Tunnel (the second oldest in the world). Istiklal Avenue is famous for its night life, but it has many attractions that shouldn't be missed at daytime. Although the street is losing its essence year by year, it seems that it will not lose its top 10 position in Istanbul.

Istanbul is a great metropolis with lots of interesting things, but Istiklal Street is probably the most colorful part of it. You can play authentic entruments, sing in any language you want, wear a Napoleon costume. You can go drunk, or go mad. That's why Istiklal Street is still one of my favorite streets, despite the meaningless gray concrete of the Taksim Square and attempts to ban alcoholic beverages.



Istiklal Street houses restaurants, bars, shops, bookstores, cinemas, passages, cultural centers, embassies (that's actually why Istiklal Street was made for, wait for the history section) and many more. It is almost impossible to get bored here. Here there are also a lot of activities and gatherings are going on throughout the year.

A little warning: You will learn the meaning of "crowded" here, especially you're walking at the weekend. You should be careful about pickpockets, but it doesn't mean that there is a pickpocket at every corner. Just being careful would be enough. And don't believe the people who invite you a place assert to be great for the tourists, or you'll probably learn the meaning of "expensive".



History


A little bit history will show why Istiklal Street is different than the other parts of Istanbul. Istiklal Street has a very long-standing past. First appearance of the city is after Byzantium era. At that time Galata was a Genovese colony (and the Galata Tower is a Genovese structure.), but the part that Istiklal Street lies today wasn't.

The old city of Istanbul is actually is actually Suriçi (the historical peninsula), which includes Sultanahmet, Topkapı and Eminonu. (Although my grandmother lived in Istanbul, she would say "I'm going to Istanbul" when she was going to Eminonu.) The opposite and newer part of the Peninsula was called Pera (the part over Karakoy and Galata.)



Originally Pera consisted wineyards, orchards and couple of houses. After Ottomans got hold of the city, the trade of Galata developed dramatically. As Latins grew more crowded, they had to find new residences, one of which was Pera. The more the trade developed, the more migrants came from the historical peninsula, including colonies of Venice, Pisa and Amalfi, the French, the Netherlander and the English.

Today Istiklal Street houses lots of embassies which were places at that time. You can see most of them while walking down the street. Beautiful buildings indeed. But you won't probably enter and take photos, because it's forbidden. The embassies and consulates at Istiklal Street are France, Netherlands, Sweden, Russia, England, and the near ones are Italy, Germany and Greece.

Sights


Let's return to present and start from the beginning next to the Taxim Square, and learn about some of the important/interesting buildings or places.

Holy Trinity Church (Aya Triada Kilisesi): When you are about to enter Istiklal Street from Taksim Square, you will see the dome and the towers of this church. I would like to say "the whole of it" but there are some ugly buildings in front of it. There are some petitions to demolish them, so the chuch will show it's glory, but for now you can enter there from the side street. It is an eastern orthodox church. According to the tablet in front of the building, the date it was built is September 14th, 1880.



French Consulate and Cultural Center: This plain and nice building is not only for visas. It has a cosy restaurant and cafe in it. If you want to learn French, here is the place. There is also a cinema hall where you can watch selected movies (not the movies in theatres).

Çiçek Pasajı (originally Cité de Péra, literally Flower Passage): This gorgeous and famous passage was built after the big Beyoglu fire in the place of Naum Theatre in 1876. It had 24 shops and 18 luxurious apartments. In 1908 the owner changed. Lots of flower shops were opened the armistice years and so the name changed. In 1940's the pubs started to attract numerous customers. Today it is mostly remembered by its pubs, but pubs that are usually preferred by intellectuals, writers and artists. It had collapsed all of a sudden in 1978 and it wasn't rebuilt until 1988. The façade of the building is one of the most decorative ones at Istiklal Street and the interior is just as good as that. The prices may be a little bit high, but entering and taking photos are free.



Galatasaray Lisesi (Galatasaray Highschool): Galatasaray Lisesi is importand both historically and touristically. It is in the middle of Istiklal Street and many people meet there (another famous meeting point is Burger King, the one next to the square). It is one of the oldest educational institution in Turkey and the education language is French. You won't probably be able to enter the building, but you can watch its huge doors, reminding its glorious days.



Cezayir Street (Algerian Street): It is also called French Street. It is a nice narrow street with lovely building and cosy pubs. As for me, it looks like a street in a small European city.




Hacopulo Passage (Hazzopulo Passage): There are many historical passages at Istiklal Street: Çiçek Pasajı (as mentioned above), Rumeli Passage, Atlas Passage, Halep Passage, Aznavur Passage, Suriye (Syrian) Passage, Elhamra Passage, Markiz Passage, Avrupa (European) Passage. But Hazzopulo is an outdoor passage with teahouses stuffed with the youth. There are also second-hand booksellers and many old stores (Madam Katia Hats, wine house, and so on) that matches well with the nostalgic atmosphere.



Church of St. Anthony of Padua: This is the biggest church in Istanbul, in terms of the building and the congregation. It was first built on Galata in 1230 under the name of Saint François. It was burnt down two times in 1639 and 1660. After 1696, the church was moved to Pera and named as St. Anthony. The architecture of the church is very stunning indeed. The church with red brick façade was built in the place of the old one in 1906 and was opened to worship in 1912. The style is Italian Neo-Gothic. The shape is Latin Crucifix. There is an entrance with two buldings for the sake of the church. You will see this 38 meter long entrance first, then the yard and the church.



Mısır Apartment (Misir Apartimani): Apartman is the Turkish word for apartment. When it is written "apartimani", it is an older spelling and means that you're about the deal an old apartment. It is the neighbour of the Church of St. Anthony of Padua. When the Trocadero Theatre was demolished in 1910, Misirli Abbas Halim Pasha (Misirli = Egyptian) built this apartment as winter mansion. It is one of the first reinforced concrete in Istanbul. There are offices, restaurants, art galleries and many more.

Church of St. Mary Draperis: This church is a little bit hidden compared to the Church of St. Anthony of Padua. You go down some stairs before entering the church. It was established in 1584. It is an old Catholic Roman Parish, actually one of the oldest in Istanbul. The church has a neoclassical enterance that with a little statue of Virgin Mary. This can be seen on the street, but to see the square plan of the church, you have to enter from the gates.



Narmanli Inn (Narmanli Han): This beautiful building was built in 1831. It was used as Russian Embassy until 1880 and Russian prison until 1914, then became a property of Narmanli Family and used as a residence. It hosted many famous writers and artists, including Ahmet Hamdi Tanpinar, the writer of magnificent novel, The Time Regulation Institute (Saatleri Ayarlama Enstitüsü).



Crimean Memorial Church: It is an Anglican Church situated on the Kumbaraci Yokusu. It was built as a memorial for Crimean War in 1868. It has a Neo-Gothic style. Today its congregation is Sri Lankan and Far Eastern.

Asmalimescit: Asma means grapevine, mescit means small mosque, alltogether "the small mosque with grapevines". Because Bayezid II had had a mescit built there. And some time at recent history there was a brothel there (how ironic), so my parents didn't like the idea of me going to the Istiklal Street. But the reality is it was gone with the wind before I even heard of it. I cannot spend much time in Asmalimescit anyway, for the fear that food and drink may be pricy (especially for students). For cheaper drinking options, you can take a look at Nevizade or Kucuk Beyoglu (Little Beyoglu).

Transportation


Istiklal Street is closed to the traffic. The transportation vehicle on the street is the nostalgic tram. It is usually too crowded, so I always prefer going on foot. You can use Sishane metro to reach the other end or just walk down there. But unless there is a storm or a police interference, I don't think it's necessary and boring then walking on the street.

You will probably have no difficulty to arrive at Istiklal Street. As Taksim is a very central place (in fact, more central than the old city), you can either come from Beyazit and Laleli, or from the Anatolian coast, Kadiköy and Bostanci. And good news: The metro line from Aksaray to Yenikapi has just opened. From Atatürk International Airport, you can directly come to Istiklal Street.



Where to Stay


There are many hotels at Istiklal Street, and some are very luxurious. Not so luxurious ones may also be somewhat expensive from hotels situated in other districts. You may try Elmadag, Harbiye and Pangalti (Pancaldi) hotels for price comparison. Nisantasi and Tesvikiye may be as expensive, but if you are willing to walk for a while or take a taxi, Fulya is also a pretty alternative. Karakoy hotels and Eminonu hotels are close to both Taksim and Sultanahmet. There are also some hostels there.
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