Istanbul Friendly

Showing posts with label eminonu. Show all posts

Tuesday, 7 July 2015

Eminonu is a neighbourhood of Fatih. It is on the East of the Golden Horn. It is inside the walls of the old city. Its neighbours are Sirkeci, Karakoy and Suleymaniye. Istanbul Ticaret University has a campus here and Istanbul Chamber of Commerce is also here.

History

Byzantium is thought to cover the area where today surroundings of Topkapi Palace, Sarayburnu and Sirkeci. At Ottoman times, it continued to be a port of trade. Due to the new ships and Sirkeci Station that started to operate, and Ottoman porte was carried to Cagaloglu. The center of Istanbul was still here. (Some old people still say "I am going to Istanbul" out of habit, referring to this area. It sounds strange to new generations.) After the republic was founded, roads were built and new transportation means were put into service. Today it is one of the most crowded areas of Istanbul.

New Mosque closer

Sights

New Mosque (Yeni Cami): It was laid in 1587 and was opened to worship in 1665. The mosque is very famous, because it is a part of Istanbul silhouette. Yeni Cami is very large with its building and yard that is flocked with pigeons.

Egyptian Bazaar (Misir Carsisi): This historical bazaar is behind Yeni Cami. It is mainly famous for its herbalists and souvenirs. My father used to work there and I've been there many time since childhood. Unfortunately modern malls that provide diversity in products and prices have negative effects on tradespeople.

Great Post Office (Büyük Postane): This is the biggest and the most historical post office of Turkey. The construction began in 1905 and the building was ready in 1909. Between 1927 and 1936, it was used as Istanbul Broadcasting House (but today it is at Harbiye). It is very close to the Egyptian Bazar and Yeni Cami.

Rustem Pasha Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii): This mosque is at Tahtakale, which I'll tell you about below. The architect of this mosque is Mimar Sinan! The completion date is written as 1562, but it may be between 1562 and 1564.

Hidayet Mosque: This mosque was built in 1814. It was wooden at first, but architect Alexandre Vallaury rebuilt it in 1887. The mosque is on Yalikosku Street, which is close to the coast.

Ahi Celebi Mosque: This mosque is behind Istanbul Ticaret University and close to Galata Bridge. Rumour has it that famous traveller Evliya Celebi had seen his dream that revealed him to travel at the rest of his life.

Galata Bridge: It connect Eminonu with Galata. It has two floors and you can walk on either of them. The view of the Golden Horn is spectacular. There are cosy sea food restaurants at the bottom floor.

Tahtakale and Mahmutpasa: These are actually two separate streets, but they serve similar purposes. You can find cheap stuff like fabrics, clothes, shoes, kitchen utensils, toys, and so on. Some of those are local, and some others are "made in China".

Food and drink

If you are into traditional food and drinks, Eminonu is the right place among some others (Sultanahmet, Beyazit, etc.). Beware of "too cheap" places due to hygienic concerns, but if you have a strong stomach like me, you don't have to worry much. You won't probably find alcoholic drinks at most places. You can try the fish of the restaurants of Galata Bridge, where you can also find alcoholic drinks.

How to get to Eminonu

It is very easy to get to Eminonu. You won't probably deal with the traffic, unless you travel with car. One of the stops of Kabatas-Bagcilar tram line is Eminonu. Sirkeci port is just a few minutes away, so you can easily come from Uskudar or Kadikoy, if you are staying at Anatolian coast.

Where to stay at Eminonu

It is hard to find many Eminonu hotels, some of which are luxurious. There are some hostels around. Sultanahmet has more hotels with different prices. You can look for the hotels, according to the stops of the tram line. Kadıkoy also has many budget hotels.

Tuesday, 19 May 2015

Photos are the witnesses of the moments. Especially old photos tell us much about the past. Istanbul is a fast changing city and the old photos show this apparent dramatic change. As for me, the nature and the architecture were better that days. There are lots of old photos of Istanbul, but I'll share some of the one I found from this link, in order not to lose track: https://eksisozluk.com/entry/49938046

I chose my best places for me, but you can check out other photos on the link.

1. Taksim Square

There are some interesting details in the pictures. You can see that the landscape is much better organized than today's meaningless grey area. You can also see Topcu Kislasi (Barracks), which has been demolished long ago and the government wanted to rebuilt again, demolishing Gezi Park. But the people didn't let the park go.

2. Galata Tower

There are again two things that draw attention. Firstly, Galata Tower doesn't have its conic roof. The first tower dates back to 528 (Byzantian times). In 1348, the Genoese built it with a conic roof. But there was two fires in Istanbul, and it was burned down and restorated. After the roof fly off after a storm, the authorities gave up and built an eighth storey instead. Today it has its roof. Secondly, you may notice the walls at the bottom. Unfortunately, you won't see any of them today. I wish I could say they built better things, but there are only tea houses.

3. Karakoy

Karakoy has changed much, too. The roads are wider, but somehow there are more buildings. The former tram line doesn't work, but there is a longer tram line. Today there is no tram to Tatavla. Tatavla is the former Greek name of Kurtulus district. The pier is pretty much the same, except the huge cruises today. Karakoy is the cruise stop of Istanbul.

4. Sultanahmet

Hagia Sophia is the controversial building of Sultanahmet. It was originally a church and it was rebuilt a couple of times. Then Mehmed conquered Constantinople and turned it into a mosque, covering the frescos. Today it is a museum, and I think so it should be. However, there are disputed again that it should be a mosque (as if Sultanahmet didn't already have a great Blue Mosque).

5. Ayvansaray - Edirnekapi

Ayvansaray is a neigbourhood that is famous for its traditional houses. It is at Edirnekapi, where you can visit Chora Mosque. Edirnekapi was one of the gates of Constantinople. Unfortunately most of the old houses and walls are almost ruins out of neglect. However, Chora Mosque is well preserved with its valuable frescos. Today it is hard to find the museum among the vast of buildings.

6. Kadikoy

Kadıkoy is fairly a newer settlement than the ones at the European coast. People must have thought there was nothing there, but it was a lovely coastal district. Today, it is one of the most crowded districts in Istanbul. And the nostalgic tram is reopened and still operating.

7. Uskudar

Uskudar is also at the Anatolian coast. The Maiden's Tower is still erect with its legends (and its unaffordable restaurant). Watching it and just stepping in is free. You'll see African people in one picture. Unfortunely, they were chosen as servants at that time. The mosque is still there, if you visit Uskudar today.

8. Prince Islands

Prince Islands had much more space and much more green when there was less settlement. However, Buyukada was always more crowded than other islands. The building below is still standing and you can still watch the similar view on the other photo. Today, you can visit all the islands easily. Authorities are planning to open two more islands, Yassiada and Sivriada, to settlement, but the residents of other islands and environmentalist are justifiably opposing.

Istanbul changes so fast that I am doubful about what I write on the blog is still there! I'll keep on writing anyway.

Monday, 1 December 2014

Gezi Park would probably be just another park in a city, if it hadn't hosted the greatest "social" demonstration in the history of Turkey. "It all started with a tree", you would hear. But when the police used disproportionate force against peaceful protesters who wanted to protect Gezi Park from becoming barracks, things went crazy. For a couple of months, flying gas canisters were a usual scene from Taksim to Galata and to Harbiye, and also at Kadikoy. It is worth to remind that despite fierce political sayings, the park is still there, safe and sound, and I'm glad to tell you about it.

The History of Gezi Park

When you see Gezi Park, you may find it small in comparision with other parks at other big cities in the world. But the park's newly assigned historical significance makes it larger than life. However, it doesn't mean the only historical memory of the park.

Let's start with earlier records. The area including Gezi Park, Divan Hotel (the hotel next to the park that let the protestors in when the violence was at its peak), Hyatt Regency Hotel, and some parts of Istanbul Radyoevi (broadcasting house) and Harbiye Orduevi (military museum and cultural center of command) was Pancaldi Armenian Graveyard, or Surp Agop Graveyard. (Surp Agop Apartment still exists, but the hospital was demolished last year and the apartment serves as a polyclinic. The graveyard being at the opposite of the hospital was plausible indeed.) The land was given to Armenians in about 1560, when there was a plague. From then on, it was used as a graveyard.

At that time, Pancaldi, Harbiye and Elmadag was considered as being outside the city. The "core" Istanbul was approximately the part where today Eminonu, Karakoy, Galata and Pera (the far end of Istiklal Street). So, the dead was allowed to be buried only outside Istanbul. In 1853, it was confined with walls. In 1856, the name plate was put. In 1865, with the cholera epidemic, burial processes were banned due to its "proximity" to the city. (Things change.)

In 1872, the municipality comandeer the area but Sultan Abdulaziz enacted an addict announcing it belonged to Armenians. In 1926, the burial processes were entirely banned and it was decided that the graveyard was to be transferred to some other place. In 1931, Istanbul Municipality that the land should be assigned to it. The case was closed in 1934 and the large part was given to the municipality. In 1938, it was announced that the graveyard would be demolished and fifteen days were given to transfer the graves, if interested.

The yellow building is Divan Hotel.

In 1939, the graveyard was totally demolished, along with Khor Virap Church. The gravestones were used for the stairs of Yeni Cami (New Mosque) in Eminonu, and for the stairs of Gezi Park, which was being built at that time.

Let's move to another historical part. In 1806, Halil Pasa Topcu Kislasi (Halil Pasha Artillery Barracks) was built at today's Gezi Park. At 31 March Incident, it became the headquarters of rebels who were -in brief- in favour of sharia, and against more liberal policies of Ittihak Terakki Cemiyeti, Party of Union and Progress. (Maybe, things never change.) The rebellion was suppressed by the army.

As Beyoglu (the district which also comprises Taksim, in case you're confused) developed towards Sisli, the barracks lost its function and it became a stadium in 1922. Henry Proust, the controversial city planner, offered authorities a plan that involved Nisantasi, Harbiye, Dolmabahce and Gezi Park. In 1940, after the stadium was demolished, Gezi Park became the first park of the Republic (of which steps were carried from the demolished graveyard).

Well, it isn't a coincidence for Gezi Park to host such heated protests.

Those were the days, my friend.

Where is Gezi Park?

Gezi Park is stuated close to Taksim Square, which is unfortunately a big gray gap nowadays. If you put Taksim on your front, the left road will take you to Macka and ultimately to Besiktas or Kabatas. The right road will take you to Elmadag and Harbiye with a ten minute walk, or Nisantasi with a fifteen minute walk. If you like, you can take the metro from Taksim and go to Osmanbey (adjecent to Nisantasi), Sisli, Mecidiyekoy and further stations.

The bus stations were carried under ground to save Taksim from traffic (and probably with frustration due to the cancellation of "new Taksim" plan). It's a little tricky right now. If you want to get on the buses which passes from Besiktas (and to the coastline, that is Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Tarabya, Sariyer, etc., or the Anatolian coast, that is Kadikoy, Bostanci, etc.), you should walk left from the Gezi Park for a while to reach the bus station next to Ataturk Library. If you like to get on a bus which passes from Sishane (to Karakoy, Eminonu, Aksaray, Beyazit, Laleli, Bayrampasa Main Bus Station, Ataturk International Airport, etc.), you should walk down to the station which has an entrance facing Gezi Park. It seems complicated at the first time. It really is. Once I gave up to meet my friend at Kadikoy.

As I mentioned above, Gezi Park is relatively small. You can walk around in ten minutes at best. However, if you sit on a bench or cobblestones, it will take hours to contemplate on its history.