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Tuesday 19 May 2015

Some Old Photos of Istanbul That Will Make You Yearn For the Past

Photos are the witnesses of the moments. Especially old photos tell us much about the past. Istanbul is a fast changing city and the old photos show this apparent dramatic change. As for me, the nature and the architecture were better that days. There are lots of old photos of Istanbul, but I'll share some of the one I found from this link, in order not to lose track: https://eksisozluk.com/entry/49938046

I chose my best places for me, but you can check out other photos on the link.

1. Taksim Square 


There are some interesting details in the pictures. You can see that the landscape is much better organized than today's meaningless grey area. You can also see Topcu Kislasi (Barracks), which has been demolished long ago and the government wanted to rebuilt again, demolishing Gezi Park. But the people didn't let the park go.



2. Galata Tower


There are again two things that draw attention. Firstly, Galata Tower doesn't have its conic roof. The first tower dates back to 528 (Byzantian times). In 1348, the Genoese built it with a conic roof. But there was two fires in Istanbul, and it was burned down and restorated. After the roof fly off after a storm, the authorities gave up and built an eighth storey instead. Today it has its roof. Secondly, you may notice the walls at the bottom. Unfortunately, you won't see any of them today. I wish I could say they built better things, but there are only tea houses.



3. Karakoy


Karakoy has changed much, too. The roads are wider, but somehow there are more buildings. The former tram line doesn't work, but there is a longer tram line. Today there is no tram to Tatavla. Tatavla is the former Greek name of Kurtulus district. The pier is pretty much the same, except the huge cruises today. Karakoy is the cruise stop of Istanbul.



4. Sultanahmet


Hagia Sophia is the controversial building of Sultanahmet. It was originally a church and it was rebuilt a couple of times. Then Mehmed conquered Constantinople and turned it into a mosque, covering the frescos. Today it is a museum, and I think so it should be. However, there are disputed again that it should be a mosque (as if Sultanahmet didn't already have a great Blue Mosque).



5. Ayvansaray - Edirnekapi


Ayvansaray is a neigbourhood that is famous for its traditional houses. It is at Edirnekapi, where you can visit Chora Mosque. Edirnekapi was one of the gates of Constantinople. Unfortunately most of the old houses and walls are almost ruins out of neglect. However, Chora Mosque is well preserved with its valuable frescos. Today it is hard to find the museum among the vast of buildings.



6. Kadikoy


Kadıkoy is fairly a newer settlement than the ones at the European coast. People must have thought there was nothing there, but it was a lovely coastal district. Today, it is one of the most crowded districts in Istanbul. And the nostalgic tram is reopened and still operating.



7. Uskudar


Uskudar is also at the Anatolian coast. The Maiden's Tower is still erect with its legends (and its unaffordable restaurant). Watching it and just stepping in is free. You'll see African people in one picture. Unfortunely, they were chosen as servants at that time. The mosque is still there, if you visit Uskudar today.




8. Prince Islands


Prince Islands had much more space and much more green when there was less settlement. However, Buyukada was always more crowded than other islands. The building below is still standing and you can still watch the similar view on the other photo. Today, you can visit all the islands easily. Authorities are planning to open two more islands, Yassiada and Sivriada, to settlement, but the residents of other islands and environmentalist are justifiably opposing.



Istanbul changes so fast that I am doubful about what I write on the blog is still there! I'll keep on writing anyway.

Famous Writers That Wrote About Their Days in Istanbul


Many people have come to Istanbul at different times and most of them have seen different faces of it. Istanbul, as a fast growing city, changes rapidly. Some values, many threes and more are lost, but it is becoming more and more popular. Are you curious about what famous writers wrote about Istanbul or Constantinople? Well, I was, and I made a little research. Here are the top nine of my findings:

1. Edmondo de Amicis - Constantinople


I read this recently and I strongly recommend it. Edmondo de Amicis came to Istanbul in 1870's with his painter friend Enrico Junk. He describes everything about Istanbul in detail. There details contain both pozitive and negative memories. He has such a sweet tone of voice that it is impossible not to be mesmerized. Turkish edition comes with the engravings of Cesare Biseo. (The photo above is one of Biseo's works.)

2. Hilary Sumner-Boyd and John Freely


Hilary  Sumner-Boyd had given lectures at Bogazici University for 35 years and she prepared this book with John Freely, who is also a renowed lecturer and an Istanbul lover. (John Freely has indeed lots of books about Istanbul. It was hard for me to choose one.) He still gives lectures at Bogazici University. Unfortunately I missed the recent one. His daugther Maureen Freely was born in Istanbul and is also a famous writer. By the way, this book is full of beautiful Istanbul photos.

3. Philip Mansel - Constantinople: City of the World's Desire


Philip Mansel is an English historian and writer. In this book, he narrates Istanbul's history between 1453 (the conquest of Constantinople) and 1924 (one year after the Turkish Republic founded). I haven't had the chance to read it, but people who read it say that it has a fascinating narrative.

4. Gérard de Nerval - Journey to the Orient


Journey to the Orient, or Voyage to the Orient is a famous work of Gérard de Nerval, who is a French poet and writer. This book was published in 1851 and contains many cities of the Eastern world, including Constantinople. He was an adventurous and a curious person. He wanted to soak into the orient and I guess he managed to do so.

5. Alphonso de Lamartine - History of Turkey


Lamartine is one of the most influential people in Istanbul. He was a writer, poet and a politician. He has a so-called saying: "If you have to look at the world once, just look at Istanbul." Well, Istanbul has heard him. There is a Lamartine Street at Talimhane. When I was writing Ihlamur Pavilion, I found out that he was a fan of Ihlamur Gardens, before the pavilions were built.

6. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu - Turkish Embassy Letters


Finally, a woman in our list! Lady Mary is an English aristocrat and a writer. Today, she is widely known with her letters from Turkey, as the wife of the Britich Ambassador. He is described by Billie Melman as "the very first example of a secular work by a woman about the Muslim Orient" (Wikipedia).

She definitely loved Turkish dresses.

7. Théophile Gautier - Constantinople


It looks like poets and writers has always loved Istanbul. Gautier is a French poet, dramatist, novelist, journalist and a critic of art and literature. He wrote this book in 1853.

8. Jorge Luis Borges - Atlas


Atlas is the collection of the travel articles of Jorge Luis Borges. He travels with his wife, after he goes blind. So the articles are totally written in a different sense of view. Istanbul takes only two pages in Atlas, but those lines are totally unforgettable. He thinks three days aren't enough to get to know Turkey. He also recommends his readers to visit there again and again.


Sunday 17 May 2015

Fulya: Formerly a Stream, Today's Health Center


Fulya means "daffodil" in Turkish. It took this name because it used to be full of daffodils and other flowers and trees. Today, its flora is unfortunately made up of skyscrapers. (But I will recommend you to visit there for following reasons.)

Fulya had formerly a stream. You'll notice the landscape as soon as you're there. There are slopes coming from Mecidiyekoy (Ortaklar Street), Nisantasi, Cevahir Mall, and Dikilitas (Ayazma Dere Street, meaning Ayazma Stream Street, obviously explanatory). Then they all unite and end up at Besiktas and Marmara Sea.

I worked at Fulya for more than two years. I walked to and from the office because there is no frequent public transportation and I couldn't afford taxi every day. You may ask "What the hell am I gonna do there?" My answer will be anything you want.

The streets to Fulya, though though, are actually nice to walk. Fulya is a prosperous neighbourhood and so are other neighbourhoods around. If you are planning to rent an apartment, beware of the high prices. There are also nice hotels especially on the street that connects Fulya with Nisantasi.

There are many private hospitals which has visitor even from abroad (for eye surgery, in vitro fertilisation, hair transportations, or cosmetic surgeries). Fulya is close to city center from different angels, offers good accomodation and health servises.

There isn't much to visit at Fulya, but if you walk for five to ten minutes, you'll reach the beautiful Ihlamur Pavilion. If you walk more towards Besiktas, you'll come to cosy Ihlamur neigbourhood where lots of university students reside.

Ihlamur Kasri (Pavilion) with its Well-Kept Garden and Peacocks

Ihlamur is near Fulya neighbourhood between Nisantasi and Besiktas. Ihlamur means "linden" in Turkish. Today, although the yard is very colourful, there is not much linden odour left. It is a perfect place to wander around for a couple hours or have a refreshing breakfast.

A view from the yard. Unfortunately it is interrupted by skyscrapers. The building is the cortege pavilion.

Sultan Abdulmecit ordered the famous Armenian architect Nigogos Balyan to build two pavilions, one for ceremony, the other for cortege. (By the way, Balyan brothers were very famous at late Ottoman times. Nigogos Balyan was also the architect of Small Mecidiye Mosque, Dolmabahce Mosque, Adile Sultan Pavilion, Ortakoy Mosque or Big Mecidiye Mosque, Kucuksu Pavilion.) The orijinal Ihlamur Pavilion is the ceremony pavilion. It is bigger and heavily decorated. The cortege pavilion is smaller and plain compared to the former.

The ceremony pavilion.
After the death of Abdulmecit, Sultan Abdulaziz took care of his brother's favourite buildings (somehow less than him). He organized cock fights and ram fights in the garden. Then Sultan Mehmet Resat V took regular rests here. In 1910, Bulgarian and Serbian kings were was hosted here. Before the pavilions were built, the land was remembered as a resort. It had three sections, including a pool, a garden and an orchard. Then after some regulations at the reigns of Ahmed III, Abdulhamid I and Selim III it became the private garden of the sultans. (The people out!) One of the famous guests of the garden at that time was the French poet Lamartine.

A peacock from the garden.
Today, the buildings are museums. You can visit the garden by paying 1 TL and see the buildings from outside. I remember entering the building once when I was a university student. I had a couple of breakfast. I love to visit the garden in spring. If I'm lucky, I see a peacock.

How to get to Ihlamur Pavilion


Fulya is a prosperous neighbourhood. I can explain the lack of public transportation only with this. If you can afford it, you can take a taxi. However, it is an easy and short walk to the pavilion from Mecidiyekoy, Nisantasi or Besiktas. If you have half an hour and if the weather is fine, don't bother to walk.


Sunday 3 May 2015

Polonezkoy: Green and Polish




Polonezkoy, formerly Adampol, is a Polack village at Beykoz. It has lots of green and peace, so it is ideal for an escape from the city. It is 20 km away from Black Sea coast and 15 km away from the Bosphorus coast.

Polonezkoy was founded by Adam Czartoryski, who was the mayor during The November Uprising (1830 Polish Revolution) and the political leader of Polish exiles, in 1842. The village was named Adampol, the village of Adam (Adamköy, "köy" is village in Turkish). The land they settled was originally organized as a farm by the Lazarist fathers of Saint Benoit French High School (still in operation at Karakoy). Adam negotiated with Ottoman government, made deals and bought some land. The village began with 12 habitants and grew dramatically.

Even before the World War II, people started to come here with touristic purposes. Among the famous names who have visited Polonezkoy are Hungarian pianist Franz Liszt (1847), French writer Gustave Flaubert and Czech writer Karel Droz (1904).

Sights at Polonezkoy


Zofia Rizi Memory House: This house is one of the oldest houses of Polonezkoy. It was built between the years 1881-1883. It is a traditional Polish house and still original. It is almost hidden in the middle of its green garden. Inside, there are photos and belongings of Ryzy family.

Czestochowa's Church (Temple of Holy Anna): This is a historical church at Polonezkoy. The first religious building at Polonezkoy is Holy Anna Church, built in 1842. Unfortunately the original church was ruined severely at the big eartquake that hit Istanbul in 1894. In 1914, Czestochowa Chapel was built.

Polonezkoy Catolic Cemetary: The first residents of Adampol sleep their forever sleeps, here in the Polonezkoy Cemetary. There are also graves of important Polish people. The grave stones are mostly in Polish. An interesting grave that belongs to a Polish officer has reached today as a mausoleum.

And of course, you can always visit green planes, and walk or sit on them.

How to get to Polonezkoy


It is both hard and easy to get to Polonezkoy. There is no public transportation. You can go to a nearbyplace like Ucpinarlar, then take a taxi which may be expensive. In my opinion, the best way is to rent a car and go there free from any worries.

Polonezkoy hotels


There are no big and five star hotels at Polonezkoy, which is actually good. You can feel the nature at pansions and renovated traditional houses. However, if you go out in the morning, you won't even need to stay overnight and you can choose a hotel at the Istanbul city center.

What to eat at Polonezkoy

There are many choices of restaurants at Polonezkoy. My favourites are the ones with the village style. There is nothing more delicious at Polonezkoy than the economic combination of ayran (yoghurt drink) and gozleme (Stuff like cheese, potato or spinach between phyllo).

Every June, the village hosts the Polonezkoy Cherry Festival. It is very close, so don't miss it.


Polonezkoy Cherry Festival



Polonezkoy Cherry Festival 2015 will be held in 13-14 June. Polonezkoy is a beautiful green district for people who wants to escape the city. It is in Beykoz and takes only half an hour with a private car. But the parking lots may be occupied at the time of the festival. Try coming early, you won't get bored, I promise.

I've been to the festival once and it's really fun. Polish folklore groups sing and dance buoyantly with their colourful dresses. After they give a break, girls and boys give the audience cherries from baskets. It was really a lovely scene, even if I couldn't event get one cherry, my favourite fruit!

You have almost one month. You are not late to make plans!


Baltalimani Japanese Garden


Baltalimani Japanese Garden is an interesting and lovely park in Istanbul. It is a little bit small, but it is usullly quiet and you can make short walks inside it. It seems like a private property at first, but it is a free public place. If you walk around, it won't take more than five minutes. However, if you digest the view it may feel like a lifetime.

The park is designed like a traditional Japanese Garden. There is a traditional Japanese house where some events are held, one of which is Japanese festival with origami, cosplay and many more. (God, how could I miss a festival with origami!) There are also sakuras and garden lanterns in the garden. I don't know any Japanese, so unfortunately I don't know what are the meanings of inscriptions on the stones.

There is also a board with Istanbul Bosphorus and Shimonoseki Hinoyama Park. Both resemble each other in having bridges and sea view. There is also a Turkish Tulips' Garden seeing Kanmon Bridge. Turkish and Japanese people are always friends at heart.

If you like to visit the park, you should get off at Baltalimani Bus Stop. Baltalimani is a beautiful neigbourhood, so don't worry if your walk at the park finishes too soon. There are chic restaurants, historical artifacts and beautiful views around.


State Hospitals in Istanbul

Sisli Hamidiye Etfal Hospital is one of the oldest hospitals of Istanbul. The clock tower at the right side is the oldest building
  1. Arnavutköy Devlet Hastanesi: Merkez Mahallesi  Fatih Caddesi No: 3 Arnavutköy / İstanbul
  2. Bakırköy Dr. Sadi Konuk Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Zuhuratbaba Mh., Tevfik Sağlam Cad. No:11, Bakırköy / İstanbul
  3. Bakırköy Ruh ve Sinir Hastalıkları Hastanesi: Zuhuratbaba Mah. Dr. Tevfik Sağlam Cad. No:25/2 Posta Kodu 34147 Bakırköy / İstanbul
  4. Baltalimanı Kemik Hastalıkları Hastanesi: Rumeli Hisarı Caddesi No: 62 34470 Baltalimanı İstanbul (This one has a wonderful Bosphorus view)
  5. Beykoz Devlet Hastanesi: Saip Molla Cad. Kısayol Sok. No:1 Beykoz / İstanbul (main building), Çiğdem Mah. Barbaros Cad. Hastane Sok. No: 1/3 34800 Beykoz / İstanbul (additional building)
  6. Büyükada Devlet Hastanesi: Lale Hatun Cad. No: 45 Büyükada / İstanbul
  7. Çatalca İlyas Çokay Devlet Hastanesi: Ferhatpaşa Mah. İstanbul Cad. 34540 Çatalca / İstanbul
  8. Okmeydanı Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Kaptanpasa Mah. Darülaceze Cad. No: 27 34384 Okmeydanı - Şişli / İstanbul
  9. Denizcilik Bankası Hastanesi: Rıhtım Cad. No: 58 Karaköy / İstanbul
  10. Esenyurt Devlet Hastanesi: Fatih Mah. 19 Mayıs Bulvarı No: 8 Esenyurt / İstanbul
  11. Haseki Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Vatan Caddesi 29 Mayıs Sokak 34250 Fatih -İstanbul
  12. Haydarpaşa Numune Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Tıbbiye Cad. No: 40 34668 Üsküdar / İstanbul (This one is also old and has a nice building)
  13. İstanbul Deri ve Tenasül Hastalıkları Hastanesi: Zuhuratbaba Mah. Dr. Tevfik Sağlam Caddesi No:26 Bakırköy / İstanbul
  14. İstanbul Esnaf Hastanesi: Süleymaniye Mah. Süleymaniye Takvimhane Cad. No: 19 Tahtakale / İstanbul
  15. Polis Hastanesi: Vatan Cad. Kocamustafapaşa / İstanbul
  16. Üsküdar Devlet Hastanesi: Barbaros Mah. Veysi Paşa Sok. No: 14 Üsküdar / İstanbul (main building), Kalfaçeşme Sokak No: 1 Koşuyolu / İstanbul (Validebag additional building)
  17. İstanbul (70. Yıl) Fizik Tedavi, Rehabilitasyon Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Kocasinan Merkez Mah. Karadeniz Cad. No: 48 Bahçelievler / İstanbul
  18. İstinye Devlet Hastanesi: İstinye Caddesi No: 98 34465 İstinye / İstanbul
  19. Dr. Lütfi Kırdar Kartal Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Şemsi Denizer Cad. E-5 Karayolu Cevizli Mevkii 34890 Kartal / İstanbul
  20. Dr. Siyami Ersek Göğüs Kalp ve Damar Cerrahisi Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Tıbbıye Cad. No: 13 Kadıköy / İstanbul
  21. Lepra Hastanesi:  Zuhuratbaba Mah. Dr. Tevfik Sağlam Caddesi No: 26 Bakırköy/İstanbul
  22. Lütfiye Nuri Burat Devlet Hastanesi: A BLOK Adresi :50. Yıl Mahallesi 2107 Sokak No:4, B BLOK Adresi :50. Yıl Mahallesi 2106 Sokak No: 8, Sultangazi / İstanbul
  23. Maltepe Devlet Hastanesi: Altayçeşme Mah. Çam Sok. No: 26-28 34843 Maltepe / İstanbul
  24. Pendik Devlet Hastanesi: Dr. Orhan Maltepe Cad. No: 17, Pendik / İstanbul
  25. Bayrampaşa Devlet Hastanesi: İsmetpaşa Mah. Kenar Sok. No: 22, Bayrampaşa / İstanbul, 
  26. Sait Çiftçi Devlet Hastanesi: Barbaros Bulv. No: 109 Beşiktaş / İstanbul
  27. Sarıyer İsmail Akgün Devlet Hastanesi: Dursun Fakih Sok. No: 1 Sarıyer / İstanbul
  28. Silivri Devlet Hastanesi: Yeni Mah. Efrahim Öztürk Sokak No: 1 Silivri / İstanbul  
  29. Sultanbeyli Devlet Hastanesi: Mehmet Akif Ersoy Mah. Cami Cad. No: 3 Sultanbeyli /İstanbul
  30. Şile Devlet Hastanesi: Balibey Mahallesi  Atatürk Caddesi  No: 1 Şile / İstanbul
  31. Şişli Etfal Hastanesi: Halaskargazi Cad. Etfal Sk. 34371 Şişli / İstanbul
  32. Taksim Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Karayolları Mahallesi, Osmanbey Caddesi, No: 120 Gaziosmanpaşa / İstanbul (The funny thing about this hospital is that it was in Taksim and was transferred to Gaziosmanpaşa. You'll never make it to it in case of emergency. Now Taksim residents also use Sisli Hamidiye Etfal Hospital.)
  33. Yakacık Doğum ve Çocuk Hastalıkları Hastanesi: Çarşı Mh. Yakakent Cd. No: 19 Kartal / İstanbul
  34. Yedikule Göğüs Hastalıkları ve Göğüs Cerrahisi Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi: Kazlıçeşme Mah., Belgrat Kapı yolu Cad. No: 1, 34020 Zeytinburnu/İstanbul

Friday 1 May 2015

Istanbul Military Museum: Big, Detailed Museum with a Lovely Yard



Istanbul Military Museum is a big museum at Harbiye. It has a lovely yard with cats and flowers. We even saw two green wild parrot on a tree. We hadn't been inside the museum before. We decided just to take a look at it and after 3-4 hours we had walked our feed off. So, we advise you to take your time and to leave your baggage somewhere if you can.

The museum covers an area of 54.000 m2 and the museum building is 18.600 m2. It was build in 1862 for the purpose of education officers for the army. Abdulhamit II had it built. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was a student of this school for some time, you can visit his figurative class inside. The building was used as a school until 1936, and as corps headquarters until 1964.

In 1964, the decision was made to turn it into a museum. Its restoration was started in 1966 and was finished in 1991. Many spatial and functional changes were made. These changes made the building somehow different both inside and outside than the older building that was used as a military school. I don't know what it looked like before, but it looks fine now.

The building was originally Aya Irini Church, and  when Fatih conquered "Constantinople", he turned it into armoury. The remains, some of which were ancient, were protected. So it can be said that first museum activities started then. The artifacts were carried to Nigde on the account of World War II. Then it was brought back to Macka Armoury, which now belongs to Istanbul Technical University. Today they are in Cinili Kosk, inside Istanbul Archaelogical Museum complex.

Inside the Museum




First of all (and normally) it is a very patriotic museum. The first floor begins with ancient Turkish history: Huns (who I equate with Vikings in terms of the active pnosition of women in migrant settler society), Gokturks (with an interesting alphabet) and Uyghurs (whose grand-grandchildren are still living in China). You can observe the migratory roots. There is a statue of Attila the Hun.

Then comes the Seljuks. I like their art. They are in between Turkish Shamanism and Islam. Normally, Islam forbids paintings and statues. But the Seljuks were in a transition period. Their art includes lion statues, story depictions etc. There are many traces of Seljuks around Turkey. You can watch the slide on the screen and see their pictures. Unfortunately you won't see Istanbul among those, because they couldn't make it to Istanbul at that time.



There are many things about the Ottomans, and there should be considering the period of time they reigned (1299-1922). You'll see things about the conquest of Istanbul. The steps and the wars that lead to Turkish republic are also exhibited in various rooms. You can visit the figurative class of Ataturk. You can see him discuss with his friends during The War of Independence.

The museum is also rich of statues and artifacts, such as men on horses, study tables, an old car (that witnessed and assassination of one of its passengers), and on the second floor guns and arms of every kind. For your information: Everyday at 15.00-16.00, you can watch the jannissary band perform.

Outside the Museum




The yard of the Istanbul Military Museum is very pleasant. There are trees and flowers. There are artifacts such as a real military helicopter and a real big cannon. Cats wander around and most of them are very friendly. One of them was so friendly that it accomponied us until we went into the museum building.

The museum today is a building complex with some newer additional buildings, but the yellow building you'll see is only newer than the museum building. It has actually Ottoman tughra and inscriptions on it. After you exit the complex, walk towards Nisantasi and visit Sanatcilar Park, which is a minute walk away. There you'll find the most comfortable cats, kittens and dogs of Istanbul.


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