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Tuesday 30 June 2015

Sirkeci: Historical Train Station Stands Time


Sirkeci neighbourhood is at Fatih district. Its neighbours are Sarayburnu (Topkapi Palace) and Cagaloglu. It is also very close (ten minute upward walk) to Sultanahmet and Eminonu.

Sirkeci has always been important through history. This is mostly because of its proximity to the Ottoman porte and to Topkapi Palace. It was like the port of Ottoman porte.

In 1885, the Orient Express was put into service, and then in 1890, Sirkeci Station was opened. Today the railroads are being renovated for the speed train, so the station is like in a hibernation state. (You can still take beautiful photos!)


Sights in Sirkeci


Along with the Sirkeci Station, there a couple of things to do in Sirkeci. First of all, don't miss the Great Post Office (Büyük Postane), the biggest and the most historical post office of Turkey. The post office is still operating and it is very close to the Egyptian Bazaar and the New Mosque at Eminonu.

There are many buffets and restaurants in Sirkeci, where you can try traditional fast foods. Sirkeci is also famous for the shops focusing on cameras, lenses and other stuff. There are many old houses on the streets, if you are interested.

If you are in urgent need of such things, you can buy them from those shops. However, prices aren't cheaper than other countries, because Dollar is expensive in Turkey.


How to go to Sirkeci


You can go to Sirkeci with ferry from Uskudar and Kadikoy. Marmaray and Kabatas-Bagcilar tram have also Sirkeci stops.

Actually if you have a full day and don't have much time, you can add it to your route. Start from Sultanahmet, when you're finished walk down to Sirkeci, then straight to Eminonu, Karakoy, Galata and finally Istiklal Street.

Marmaray entrance/exit is just on the right.

Monday 29 June 2015

Room Escape Games in Istanbul

I have an urge to escape


I've always loved to play room escape games on web or on mobile. Finding secret objects, solving puzzles, racing against time... And one day I learned that I could really be the one who is trying to escape the room!

Room escape games are very trendy in Istanbul. I knew only a couple of them, so I searched for them at the Internet. You'll have to make reservations in advance and ask for the prices.

ISTrapped


I guess this is the first room escape game in Istanbul (but not the last). I, my sister and a friend of hers tried this, and liked it very much. I won't give any spoiler, only two adjective to define it: mysterious and nostalgic. I think you should try it at least once. It is in an old beautiful building at Asmalimescit, close the Tunnel and Istiklal Street.

Escapist


I haven't been to Escapist (yet). It is very close to my office, so I see its plate almost everyday at Trump Towers Mall. This one is the biggest room game in Istanbul. You have six options here: company, secret experiment, on the trail of past, sacred treasure, the key of Agatha, abandoned.

Tuzak


European coast is always faster to adopt novelties, but Anatolian coast keeps up with them soon. Tuzak is a room escape game at Kadıkoy. It is very close to the bull statue. This time you aren't trying to escape from a room, you are trying to escape from a hotel, Hotel California.

Numara13


It is claimed to be one of the best and the most spooky room escape games in Istanbul. Its story is based on a real story, which makes it more interesting.

Defuse the Bomb


This is slightly different from other room escape games. I guess it feels like you have a part in a TV series. I don't know what happens, if you cannot find the bomb!

Saturday 27 June 2015

Kabatas: Gate to the Anatolian Coast


Kabatas means "rough stone" in Turkish. The neighbourhood supposedly took its name from a big rock, but today it isn't certain where the rock is or what it looks like.

Kabatas is between Findikli and Dolmabahce. It is a rather small neighbourhood, but its importance lies in the transportation. Kabatas is like a connection point.

It is on the opposite of Uskudar. So, many people who live at the Anatolian coast prefer to go to Kabatas and then get on other transportation means.


How to get in and out


Kabatas has a port. This means you can come from and go to the Anatolian coast. There are ferries and sea buses to Uskudar, Kadikoy, Bostanci and Prince Islands.

There is also a small bus terminal here. You can find buses to Sariyer, Bahcekoy, and many more.
Kabatas is the first and the terminal stop of Kabatas-Bagcilar tram that also passes from Sultanahmet.

It is very easy to come to Kabatas. You can even walk from Taksim or Besiktas.



What to do in Kabatas


Kabatas is very close to Dolmabahce, so if you come to Kabatas, you can walk for a couple of minutes and visit Dolmabahce Palace.

It is also close to Kucukciftlik Park, where many open air concerts take place.

Istanbul Aquarium: Meet the Exotic Fish

Istanbul Aquarium is a recreation area at Florya. It is very close to Ataturk Sea Kiosk. There are many fish, other sea creatures and sea plants in the tanks of the aquarium.


There are sixteen themes in Istanbul Aquarium: the Black Sea, Bosphorus, Dardanelles, the Aegean Sea, Suez Canal, the Red Sea, Global Warming, the Mediterranean Sea, Gibraltar, East Atlantic (sunken ship), Middle Atlantic, West Atlantic, Panama Canal, Pasific, Nautilus (submarine), rain forest.


At rain forest, there is more than fish. Poisonous frogs, snakes and giant rodents are also there. There I saw piranha for the first time!

The aquarium may take 5-6 hours, if you examine the fish carefully. So, make your plans accordingly. There are also cafeterias, children entertainment rooms, cinema salloons and many more.



Where is Istanbul Aquarium?


The bus line 73F, but it operates seldomly. There was a train line, but it is closed due to the Marmaray construction. A seabus service is planned on the port, but therere is nothing yet. Then, you have the right to ask "How will we go to this aquarium?"


The best way we found is that: We got on the Yesilkoy "dolmuş" from Taksim (the yellow ones), The dolmuş passes from very behind of Florya. So, we took a taxi from Yesilkoy, which is very close to Florya, about five to ten minutes. You can repeat it on the return. Both the aquarium and Yesilkoy is nice, so you won't regret your time or money.

* The photos may look strange. Most of them were taken behind glass at slightly dark conditions without using flash.


Thursday 25 June 2015

Istanbul Pride 2015



Attention please! Istanbul Pride 2015 will take place on 28 June, Sunday. It will start from Taksim Square, and after a walk along Istiklal Street, it will end at Tunnel Square.

Istanbul is one of the cities in the world, where LGBTI week is celebrated. On 21 June, Trans Pride took place on Istiklal Street.

On 28 June, everyone will come together in peace, will sing and shout for LGBTI rights and against homophobia.

I will be there on 28 June, but in case, I will share a couple of pictures from Istanbul Pride 2013, which took place just after the Gezi Park Protests. So, it was carrying the soul of both LGBTI and Gezi Park. At that time, the participation was the highest of all Prides.




Tuesday 23 June 2015

Agva: Black Sea, Caves and Beaches

Agva is a neighbourhood of Sile. Agva and Sile in general lets you to escape the city, even if you're still in the confines of Istanbul. It has cosy restaurants, beaches, caves... Who wants anything more for the weekend?

Many civilizations have settled Agva since 7th century. There are even Roman ruins in some of the surrounding villages. Agva means "water" and "the village between to streams" in Latin. Goksu Stream is one of the most remarkable geographical feature.

The stream pours into Black Sea.
There are many things you can do at Agva. You can walk around the centre, sit at the restaurants, be friends with lovely cats, swim (of course, if the weather is fine), and tour around with motorboats.

One of the caves is on the left.
There are two ways to make a boat tour. You can either choose to go along the stream or along the caves. For the latter, the boats will sail into the Black Sea. If the weather conditions aren't favourable, the captain will let you know. This tour takes about fifteen minutes and it is worth every second.

The fifteen minute tour was 50 TL for boat in 2014. I don't know the current price, but I think the logic is still the same. So, the more crowded you are, the more advantageous you are. One boat can carry 6-8 people.

You can also rent motorboats to visit some other coves, caves and falls that can only be reached via the sea.

Looks like a scene from the Lord of the Rings
You can go to Agva with car easily. So, if possible, try renting a car. There are also bus lines available. You can go to Uskudar or Umraniye for the hourly bus services. It takes 2-2,5 hours to Agva. First stop is Sile central. The buses are more crowded on weekends, so make your plan accordingly.

The right ligthhouse and the beach behind.



Cihangir: Cafes, Streets and Cats

Cihangir is a neighbourhood at Beyoglu. Its neighbours are Taksim Square, Siraselviler Street, Kazanci Slope, Salipazari and Findikli. It has a very lively history. Lately, it is one of the favourite places of intellectuals, artists and expats in Istanbul. There are many cosy cafés, lovely houses and spectacular views.

The view from Cihangir

History


There isn't much about the history of Cihangir before Ottoman Empire. However, some ruins that were found on the steep hill are supposed to be of a pagan temple or an early Christian monastary. The first document about the neighbourhood tells that some "nasty" men and women were staying there.

When the son of Suleiman the Magnificent and Roxelana (Hurrem Sultan), Cihangir died, they had Mimar Sinan build a mosque over the old religious ruins in 1559-1560. The neighbourhood took its name from the mosque.

Unfortunately Cihangir had its share of Istanbul fires. All the wooden buildings burnt down, so locals didn't build wooden houses any more (I have seen a wooden house there, but it is one of the exceptions). The new buildings were masonry. At the beginning of 20th century, the locals were comprised of Greeks, Armenians and Jews. After 1920's, Belarussian immigrants settled here.

Cihangir Mosque

Cihangir had degenerated in 1960's parallel with Taksim. Later, with the renovations in 1980's, it became one of the most desired neighbourhoods in Istanbul. Today, it flocked with writers, actors, artists and musicians.

In Cihangir, there was one big state hospital, Taksim Ilk Yardim (First Aid), but it is now in Gaziosmanpasa, which is kilometers away! The famous private hospital, Alman Hastanesi (German Hospital) was also closed recently.


I think the best way to go Cihangir is to walk either from Taksim or from Findikli. There are more than lovely houses, narrow streets, cosy cafés and elegant restaurants: cute, friendly cats. Turkish way to call a cat is "pisi pisi". Most of them will come closer when you call them.

Monday 22 June 2015

The Best Places Near Istanbul You Can Visit for the Weekend

Istanbul is not only a big city, but also in the middle of two continents. Moreover, it allows you to go many places. Most of the main roads in Turkey are fine. So, if you have time, you can visit some beautiful places around. Plane is not a viable option for both. You may try local buses, but I think it is better to rent a car. Many big car renting companies and local ones offer you different cars with different prices.

Let's take a look at some of the best places you can visit for a day or two.

1. Gebze - Ballikayalar Natural Park


This one is the nearest to Istanbul. Gebze, which was once a province of Istanbul, is only one hour drive away. You can come here with family and friends, have a picnic together, and walk around in nature. Ballikayalar also attracts climbers, because it has spacial rock formations. (Ballikayalar means "rocks with honey" in Turkish.)

Green and natural (Photo is just after winter)
Looks like Meteora.

2. Bursa - City Center - Uludag - Cumalikizik Village - İznik (Nicaea)


Bursa is a very special city. It was once the capital of Ottomans. There are many important mosques like Yesil Camii in its center. The center is also the origin of the famous Iskender Kebab. Cumalikizik is a village that is almost half an hour away to the center. The village offers you the beautiful view of traditional Ottoman houses, as well as home made marmalades and pickles.

The provinces of Bursa are also special. Inegol houses the second largest cave in Turkey, Oylat Cave. Oylat neighbourhood also have a highland and hot springs. Uludag is one of the favourite ski centers in Turkey. In my opinion, don't squeeze it inside your Bursa plans and stay there at least one night.

We should mention Iznik separately. Iznik, namely Nicaea, is very crutial in Christian History. Nicaean Councils took place here, and 7th council took place in Haghia Sophia Church. The church is converted into a mosque in 2011. It is still disputed that it should be a museum. There are also ancient ruins here and there of the city. The view of the lake is also nice.

Inside of the Iznik Haghia Sophia Mosque
Some ancient ruins.

3. Adapazari - Masukiye - Kartepe - Lake Sapanca


This route is also close to Istanbul, just a two hour drive. Adapazari is the name of the province. Masukiye is the beautiful neigbourhood of Adapazari. It is very popular among Istanbul residents. It is green and it has falls. Actually, many places around there have falls. Sapanca is another neighbourhood like that. There is also Lake Sapanca with a beautiful view. Just like Uludag, plan Kartepe separately in winter, because it has a more and more popular ski center. However, in summer you can add it to your Adapazari plans.

Sapanca has many small falls.
A cow at Sapanca

4. Edirne - Historical Tour - Selimiye Mosque


Edirne is almost four hour away from Istanbul. So, it's up to you to stay there or not. You may also visit other provinces like Tekirdag, and Kirklareli, which will be mentioned below. Edirne was also one of the capital cities of Ottoman Empire. So, there are important historical artefacts, such as Selimiye Mosque, of which architect is renowned Mimar Sinan.

5. Canakkale - Troy - Assos - Bozcaada


This is a very pleasant route and it may take more than a weekend. Canakkale takes almost seven or eight hours. Troy, Assos and Bozcaada are all at separate places. So, you'll need time. Troy is one of the most famous ancient cities of all times. Come here and imagine those times among the real remains. You can go to Troy passing Ezine, which has delicious cheese and cheese desserts. Assos is an ancient city in Behramkale neigborhood, which is also famous for its hotels and beaches. Assos is one of the biggest ancient cities in Turkey. It is also important, because the famous philosopher Aristoteles spent three year in Assos. Lastly, Bozcaada is one of the biggest and the most special islands in Turkey. You can go there with ferry from Geyikli. The island is well protected. Even nylon bags are forbidden. There are beautiful cafés, beaches, and red wine exclusive of the region.

Assos Ancient City with a beautiful Aegean view.
This Trojan horse is symbolic.

6. Kirklareli - Igneada


Kirklareli has many historical remains, but the most special part of it is the natural wonder, Igneada. Igneada takes three or four hours with car. It is one of the top places of ecological tourism. It has been a center of attention since ancient times. Unfortunately, as most national parks of Turkey, Igneada is threatened to be destroyed. So, at weekends activists gather to protest this distruction.

7. Bolu - Lake Abant - Yedigoller (Seven Lakes)


Bolu province can be visited in all seasons, because it has Lake Abant and Yedigoller! Both offer you picturesque views. Lake Abant is ideal for family trips and honeymoon, but the hotels around may be expensive. It is better to go Yedigoller with a car or a bus, because there is a long road to go and there is no hotels around. There are six natural lakes and an artifial lake at Yedigoller National Park. You can camp in the park.

One of the lakes with a small cloud.
One of the lakes with a beautiful reflection.

8. Eskisehir - Odunpazari - Porsuk Cayi


Eskisehir is a province which is famous for Anadolu University, which is one of the top choices of Erasmus students. The city itself is very well cared for and only four hours away from Istanbul. Odunpazari houses are colourful and traditional Ottoman houses that look very lovely. Eskisehir City Park has an artificial beach, an articifial island, and real fish. Porsuk Cayi is the longest branch of Sakarya River and it feels like Venice with its gondolas. There is also Sazova Park, which is a paradise for children with its fairy tale buildings and scientific events.

Old Odunpazari houses are examples of traditional Ottoman architecture.
Porsuk Cayi looks like a small Venice.

Basic Turkish Phrases You'd Better Know

This chart is from Wikipedia.

Turkish is an Ural-Altaic language. I'm not going to tell about its details, but it may seem hard from the perspective of Indo-European languages in terms of suffixes. Learning a new language always has some difficulties of its own. Here, I will mention some of the basic phrases you may need in Istanbul and in Turkey general. Luckily, there are many people who know English and the ones who don't know any foreign languages are eager to help tourists with body language. Just follow the gestures and mimics.

I will give you a small dictionary. You can find the special letters and their pronunciation above. I'll also write some of the word pronunciation below, but not all. When you get the logic, you'll be able to read. Turkish is usually read in the way it is written. Don't bother about the suffixes and sentences. A couple of words will probably help you to implicate your intention.

Hello --> If formal, merhaba (mehr hah bah). If informal, selam (seel um).
How are you? -->  If formal, Nasılsınız? (na suhl suhn uz). If informal, Nasılsın? (na suhl suhn). More informal, Naber? (na berr)
Thank you. --> Teşekkür ederim (teh shek uer eh der eem), but you can shorten it like Teşekkürler (teh shek uer lerr).
You're welcome --> Rica ederim or Bir şey değil can be used, but they are hard to memorize. It will be ok if you bow or smile.
What is your name? --> If formal, Adınız nedir? (ad uhn uhz ne deer). If informal, Adın ne? (ad uhn ne)
My name is... --> Adım (ad uhm)
Nice to meet you. --> Memnun oldum (mem noon oll doom)
Please --> Lütfen (Luet fen)
Yes --> Evet (eh vet)
No --> Hayır (Hah yuhr)
Excuse me / I'm sorry --> There are many Turkish words for these, but if you say "pardon" just like in French, it will cover all of those. When you want to apologise, when you want your way, when you want to draw attention of a waiter, just say pardon.
Good bye --> If  you're the one who is going, say formally Hoşça kalın (hosh cha kaluhn) and informally Hoşça kal (hosh cha kal). If you are the one who is staying, say Güle Güle (guele guele). If you don't want to memorize this, just say bye and many people will understand it.
Welcome--> If formal, Hoş geldiniz (hosh gel din iz). If informal, Hoş geldin (hosh gel din).
I can't speak Turkish --> Instead of trying to remember "Türkçe konuşmuyorum", you can say no Turkish just in the Turkish way.
Do you speak English? --> Instead of trying to remember "İngilizce biliyor musunuz?", you can say "English?"
Look out! --> Dikkat (dik khat). You will probably hear it from the locals when you don't realize the crazy drivers coming directly to you. (Istanbul = traffic)
Good morning. --> Günaydın.
Good afternoon. --> Tünaydın.
Good day. --> İyi günler (e yee guen lerr). This is very common and you can use it throughout the day when both arriving and leaving.
Good evening. --> İyi akşamlar.
Good night. --> İyi geceler.
I don't understand. --> Anlamıyorum.
Where is the toilet? --> Tuvalet nerede? (too va let ner eh de). To sound nicer, locals usually ask it like "Lavabo nerede?". Lavabo means sink and I don't thinks it sounds nicer.
Now --> Şimdi (shim di)
Later --> Sonra
Before --> Önce
After --> Sonra, as well.
How much...? --> Ne kadar? You don't need a complete sentence, just show the thing.
What time is it? --> Saat kaç?

Help! --> İmdat! (Im daht) or Yardım edin! (yard um ed in)
Go away! --> Git! or more harshly Defol!
Stop! --> Dur! (door)
Thief! --> Hırsız! (huhr suhz)
I'm lost --> Kayboldum. (kahy bohl doom)

Doctor is doktor, police is police; you can say them as you say in English. I didn't write the long emergency sentences. Don't try to remember Turkish sentences, scream for the words or show the situation. I hope you'll never need those!

Where is ... --> ... nerede? (Taksim nerede? etc.)
Left --> sol
Right --> sağ
Here --> burada
There --> orada
Straight --> düz
Forwards --> ileri
Backwards --> geri
Taxi --> taksi
Breakfast --> kahvaltı
Lunch --> öğle yemeği
Supper --> akşam yemeği
Chicken --> tavuk
Beef --> sığır eti
Fish --> balık eti
Cheese --> peynir
Fruit --> meyve
Vegetable --> sebze
No meat --> Etsiz olsun.
Yellow cheese --> kaşar
Water --> su
Salt --> tuz
Wine --> şarap
Beer --> bira
Expensive --> pahalı
Cheap --> ucuz
Rent a car --> araba kiralama
Gas station --> benzinci, benzin istasyonu

If you have a smart phone and Wi-Fi, you won't have much difficulty If you don't have those, but you have chance to show the word, you won't probably need to memorize it, such as colours, foods, drinks and numbers. Let's finish this article with some common signs.

Open --> Açık
Closed --> Kapalı
Entrance --> Giriş
Exit --> Çıkış
Push --> İtiniz
Pull --> Çekiniz
Toilet --> Toilet/WC, sometimes only man and woman illustrations
Men --> Bay
Women --> Bayan
No entrance --> Girilmez

Sunday 21 June 2015

Ways to Get Abroad If You Will Stay Long at Istanbul

Istanbul itself is a big city and it takes so much time to get to know it. I have been living in Istanbul since I was born, but I learn new things every day, as I walk around to find something to write here. However, we pass over its proximity to some other countries, such as Greece and Bulgaria.

It may not make a big difference for European visitors, but other visitor from more distant countries may like this opportunity. Especially if you are an expat or Erasmus student, you can try a couple of the suggestions below.


Plane


Istanbul has two big airports: Ataturk International Airport and Sabiha Gokcen International Airport. Both host many flights of Turkish and international planes around the world. You can find economic tickets, if you book your ticket early enough.

Suggestion:

From Istanbul, you can fly to every capital city and some other cities of Balkans and East Europe. You can fly to Thessaloniki, Athens, Sofia, Varna, Belgrade, Sarajevo, Ljubljana, Tirana, Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Skopje, Pristine, Budapest, Prague and Bucharest. Many of these countries don't want visa from Turkish citizens, but you should act accordingly to your passport.

Bus


There are some bus companies that will take you to many of the cities above. If you cannot find cheap plane tickets, you can try the bus. Their ticket fees don't change frequently. For example, Thessaloniki bus is 150 TL for a long time, and so is Varna bus. I think 8-10 hours of bus trip is fair.

Suggestion:

As I mentioned above, Greece and Bulgaria are the best destinations for bus trips. You can go to Thessaloniki, Kavala, Xanthi, Komotini, Alexandroupolis, Athens, Skopje, Ohrid, Plovdiv, Sofia, Varna. There are buses to Hungary and even to Germany, but they will definitely take more than 10 hours. You may take the bus to go to ferries which I will explain below.


Ferry


Ferry is a lovely option, but if you're staying at Istanbul, you should go to ports either by plane or by bus. There are many local flights, so it won't be hard for you to find one. There are also many local bus services.

Suggestion:

Greek Islands! You have many options. You can go to Chios Island from Cesme, to Lesvos Island from Ayvalik, to Kos Island from Bodrum, to Samos Island from Kusadasi, to Rhodes Island (and Simi Island, but it is more complicated) from Marmaris, to Meis Island from Kas. Turkish citizens can get their visas on the island, but you should search for the visa policy of your country.

Car


Renting a car may be a good solution. In Istanbul, you can find many car rentals, including the international ones.

Suggestion:

All of above! You should learn the international driving license policies concerning your passport. Greece has cancelled the the international driving license for Turkish citizens, but I don't know the situation of other citizenships. Ferries have room for cars, but they are small ferries. So, you'd better book you ticket online before your trip.

Train


There is also the train option, but it is a little complicated right now. The railroads are being renovated for a long long time. You have first to go to Cerkezkoy, which is almost two hours away from Istanbul. For now, direct bus trips are more logical. If there is any change, I'll update the info.

Istanbul: The City Where You Can Travel Between Two Continents Easily

Istanbul is a very special city in many ways. Besides its historical treasure, it is situated on a special territory. Istanbul, like Rome, has seven hills. Moreover, it is half on Asia, half on Europe. Changing continents may be a big deal for many people, but not for Istanbulites.

If you visit Istanbul, you can easily go from Asia to Europe or from Europe to Asia. Here are the different ways you can try.


Ferries


I think ferries are the best way to change continents. Blue sea, blue sky and seagulls. Sometimes a lovely wind and beautiful clouds. You'll really enjoy your time in there. And this pleasure costs less than 1 Euro and almost 1 Dolar (one-way).

There are actually different kinds of ferries. There are bigger ones and smaller ones. The only difference along with their designs is their destinations. You can go from Kadikoy to Eminonu, Karakoy or Kabataş. You can go from Uskudar to Besiktas or Eminonu. You can check the schedules online or just there. These ones are really frequent.

There are some ferries that stop at beautiful Bosphorus ports, such as Bebek, Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Rumelihisari, Anadolu Hisari... This destinations are both useful and touristic. But these ferries aren't as frequent above. So, make your plans accordingly.

You can also use sea buses that will take you from Kadikoy to Bakirkoy and Avcilar, a very long destination shortened compared to the road. But this one is closed and lets you to enjoy the view less.


Bridges


Bridges are the second best way to change continents, unless you aren't on them at working hours. Istanbul has a heavy traffic jam at those hours. Apart from traffic, you'll be fine. The view on the bridge is near bird's eye and very panoramic. Prepare your cameras, because the shortest part of your road trip will be on the bridge (the traffic jam usually subsides just on the bridge).

You'll see different parts of Bosphorus, according to the side you sit on the bus. One-way ticket fees change due to the bus you are in, but it will be a little highter than 1 Euro at most. So, you can go back and fort to see different parts of the view, or combine your trip with one way ferry.

Subway


This is, for me, the less interesting way to change continents. It seems interesting to go from underground, but you don't see a single view. This subway has a special name: Marmaray. However, if you are in a hurry, this is quite useful. As a tourist, the most useful stops for you will probably be Uskudar and Sirkeci (this one is very close to Sultanahmet).

Wednesday 17 June 2015

Karakoy: From Old Port to New Port

Karakoy is a district of Beyoglu. It was previously called Galata district. Karakoy is its contemporary name. It has always been used as a port. It is one of the oldest parts of the Istanbul. It was also the financial center of the Ottoman Empire in 19th century. Today it is a popular port among cruise ships and has lots of fine restaurants.

Father and daugther are enjoying the view.

Karakoy is very central. Galata Bridge connects Karakoy with Eminonu, Its neigbours are Azapkapi, Sishane, Tophane, and Yuksekkaldirim, which takes you to Istiklal Street. There is an interesting detail about Karakoy. As I said, it has always been a port. Being a port means sailors. Where there are sailors, there are brothels. The brothel at Karakoy is very near to St. Benoit High School. (Parents periodically react against it.)



History


Karakoy has been used as a port since Byzantian times. The Byzantian Emperor let Genoese merchants reside and work there. So, they made solid buildings to protect themselves and their goods. Almost all the walls they built have been destroyed, but you can still see a massive artifact left: Galata Tower. It been said that by 15th century Galata looked like an Italian city.

After the Conquest of Istanbul in 1453, there were three parts at Galata: Genoese, Venice and Catalan. There were Genoese and Ottoman citizens, Greeks, Armenians, Georgians and Jews. (Edmondo de Amicis writes about this colourful at 1870's.) Later, Muslims outweighed the population.

Stairs to Istiklal Street

After 1500, it welcomed the Sefarads who escaped from the Spanish inquisition. In 1854-1856, it was raid by the Europeans (a united force of British, French and Italian soldiers) who came to fight for Crimea War. The soldiers needed a dock for the new coming equipments, but a dock couldn't be built until 1895.

In 19th century, it became a finance and banking center. Ottoman Bank founded its headquarters here. (You can visit the building which is now used as a museum.) Then Italian and Austrian insurance companies opened branches here. In 20th century, the port was widened, and the district was swarming with sailor and passengers. It was famous for its Greek taverns back then. Thousands of Belarussians who escaped from Russia after the October Revolution in 1917 came here and settled.

Kemankes Mustafa Mosque


Sights


Galata Tower: It is one of the oldest and one of the most fascinating artefacts in Istanbul. You should pay an entrance fee which in my opinion is a little bit more expensive than equivalent places (at least in Europe), but the view is worth it. Galata Tower gives you the chance to see a panoramic view of Istanbul. There is partly an elevator and partly stairs. It has a Romanesque style.


Galata Tower from Karakoy


Galata Bridge: The bridge that connects Karakoy to Eminonu. It is both open for pedestrians and vehicles. (Nice walk, nice view and nice seafood restaurants!) It isn't the first bridge built on the Golden Horn and it won't probably be the last. In 1502-1503, Leonardo da Vinci presented a bridge project to Sultan Bayezid II. But it was rejected. Later, Michelangelo was invited to Istanbul for him to present a project. This time, he rejected the Sultan. This last bridge is the fifth Galata bridge and was finished in 1994.

Galata Bridge

Kamondo Stairs: These twin stairs were built in 1850's in the name of Abraham Salomon Kamondo, a member of one of the most important banker families of the time and also a Sefarad. They are made from marble in art nouveau style. People like to take photos there. You may even see brides and grooms from time to time.

Kamondo Stairs

Banks' Street: Its actual name is Voyvoda Street, but if you ask a local "Where is Voyvoda Street?" you probably won't get an answer. (Voyvoda means "governor, landlord" in Slavic. Vlad III, who is thought to be Dracula, is called Kazikli Voyvoda in Turkish. Kazikli means "piled" which refers to the killing style of Vlad III.) The street begins with Karakoy Street and finishes with Yuksekkaldirim Street. The banks here are Ottoman Bank, Deutsche Bank, Russian Foreign Trade Bank, Bank Athens, Commercial Bank of the Near East Ltd, Sumerbank, Garanti Bank. The insurance companies are also interested. (Generali Passage is one of the prominent buildings.) You may recognise other building with round reliefs on them. They used to show what kind of trade the building owner made. For example, if you see a sheep relief, you have right to think that the original owner used to sell sheep.

Generali Han

Turkish Jewish Museum of 500th Year Foundation: This is fairly a new museum. The foundation was founded in 1989, to celebrate the 500th year of Sefarads' coming to the Ottoman Empire. The museum was opened in 2001. The building was previously Zulfaris Synagogue. It is said that the building existed in 1671 and there is also evidence that it was built upon another building from Genoese time. The museum is mainly in chronological order and there is an etnographic section.

Synagogues: There are many synagogues at Karakoy: Neve Salom Synagogue, Tofre Begadim Synagogue (today, an arts center), Italian Synagogue, Or Hodes Synagogue, Yuksekkaldirim Ashkenazi Synagogue.

Churches: And so are churches. San Petro and Paulo Church, Sankt Georg Church, Saint Michael Church, San Francesco Church, Santa Anna Church, Santa Maria Church, San Domenica Church, San Zoni Church, Surp Sarkis Church (oldest Armenian church at Istanbul, dating back to 1360), Surp Hisus Pirgic Church, Saint Benoit Church (as a part of the school), Galata Bulgarian Church, Haghios Nikolas Turkish Orthodox Church, Haghious Ioannis Assyrian Church.


St. Benoit High School: It is one of the oldest schools in Turkey and one of the most deep-rooted Latin-Catholic institutions in Istanbul. It seems to date back to 1783, but its history actually begins in 1362. You can see some part of the building from Kemeralti Street.

Arabic Mosque: It was previously San Paolo Church. Then it was converted into a mosque after 1453. It is the only Gothic church, remaining before 1453. There are few but important documents that show insight about Gothic history.

Underground Mosque: This mosque took its name for being a little lower than the ground. It is nicely decorated, and I think it has a good atmosphere for worshipping. The place was originally a Byzantine dungeon. It dates back to estimated 570's.

Underground Mosque

Sokullu Mehmet Pasha Mosque: This mosque is situated in Azapkapi neighbourhood. It is made in the name of Sokullu Mehmet Pasha. And the architect is: Mimar Sinan! It was built in the style of Selimiye Mosque at Edirne. (Edirne is one of the best places near Istanbul you can visit for the weekend.

How to get to Karakoy


It is very easy to get to Karakoy, except renting a car. The streets are narrow and there is always traffic (and no parking lots), so I suggest you to use public transportation or your feet. You can walk up to Istiklal Street or use the Tunnel. You can use the tram line to and from Kabatas. You can enjoy the Marmara Sea by getting on the ferries to Kadikoy, and you can feed the seagulls with bagels.

You can see Topkapi Palace from Karakoy.


What to eat at Karakoy


There are many restaurants and cafes at Karakoy. If you walk along the port, you'll see restaurants focusing mainly on seafood. The prices are a little high at some places (In Istanbul, everywhere with a sea view is expensive, get used to it), but I think the service is usually good. If you walk inside and around the small streets, you'll find lots of cosy cafes. Karakoy is the new rival of Istiklal Street.

Some cafés at Karakoy


Where to stay at Karakoy


There are many Karakoy hotels, some of which can be expensive (remember the sea view rule), but if you search enough you may find more budget hotels. You can also stay near Karakoy. Then your options will be Taksim, Eminonu, Besiktas, and even Kadikoy.

Unfortunately this isn't a hotel :)

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