Cihangir: Cafes, Streets and Cats

Cihangir is a neighbourhood at Beyoglu. Its neighbours are Taksim Square, Siraselviler Street, Kazanci Slope, Salipazari and Findikli. It has a very lively history. Lately, it is one of the favourite places of intellectuals, artists and expats in Istanbul. There are many cosy cafés, lovely houses and spectacular views.

The view from Cihangir

History

There isn't much about the history of Cihangir before Ottoman Empire. However, some ruins that were found on the steep hill are supposed to be of a pagan temple or an early Christian monastary. The first document about the neighbourhood tells that some "nasty" men and women were staying there.

When the son of Suleiman the Magnificent and Roxelana (Hurrem Sultan), Cihangir died, they had Mimar Sinan build a mosque over the old religious ruins in 1559-1560. The neighbourhood took its name from the mosque.

Unfortunately Cihangir had its share of Istanbul fires. All the wooden buildings burnt down, so locals didn't build wooden houses any more (I have seen a wooden house there, but it is one of the exceptions). The new buildings were masonry. At the beginning of 20th century, the locals were comprised of Greeks, Armenians and Jews. After 1920's, Belarussian immigrants settled here.

Cihangir Mosque

Cihangir had degenerated in 1960's parallel with Taksim. Later, with the renovations in 1980's, it became one of the most desired neighbourhoods in Istanbul. Today, it flocked with writers, actors, artists and musicians.

In Cihangir, there was one big state hospital, Taksim Ilk Yardim (First Aid), but it is now in Gaziosmanpasa, which is kilometers away! The famous private hospital, Alman Hastanesi (German Hospital) was also closed recently.


I think the best way to go Cihangir is to walk either from Taksim or from Findikli. There are more than lovely houses, narrow streets, cosy cafés and elegant restaurants: cute, friendly cats. Turkish way to call a cat is "pisi pisi". Most of them will come closer when you call them.