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Showing posts with label besiktas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label besiktas. Show all posts

Thursday, 30 July 2015

Dolmabahce: Dolmabahce Palace and Dolmabahce Mosque

From outside

Dolmabahce is a neighbourhood at Besiktas. It has a beautiful view with historical sights. Dolmabahce is the place where Sultan Mehmet II set foot on Istanbul. It is said that the neighbourhood that was formed by filling earth at the reign of Sultan Ahmet I or Sultan Osman II.

No photo is allowed inside. You cannot visit Selamlik and Harem by yourself. You should join a tour with guide. The tickets are sold with different options. If you have time and money, I suggest you to buy a full ticket which allows you to visit both Selamlik and harem, also the Painting Museum. The outside of the palace is very nice, so you will have a great time when not visiting the buildings.

From inside

Dolmabahce Palace


Dolmabahce Palace is on the Marmara coast. It is on the opposite of Uskudar and Salacak. When you are on a Besiktas-Kadikoy or Besiktas-Uskudar ferry, you also see it from the sea. This is a palace sultans lived after they left Topkapi Palace, just like Yildiz Palace.

Before Dolmabahce Palace, the area was a cove where Ottoman fleet used to anchor. It became a marsh over time. The cove began to be filled in 17th century, and was used as the private garden of the sultan. There were kiosks and pavilions scattered then.

It is unknown, when those buildings were destroyed and the excavation started. But according to some records, the palace was in place in 1842. But a French nomad says that the palace was still decorated and there was still no furniture in 1853. (Perhaps the government was out of money.)

After Ottomans, the palace was still used to entertain important guests. Ataturk stayed there, when he came to Istanbul. He spent his last days at Dolmabahce Palace and died there on November 10, 1938. You can see the room and the bed (as well as his study room), while you are visiting the museum,

There are some animals on the yard of Glassed Kiosk

Buildings


Clock Tower: This is probably the first thing that catches your eye about Dolmabahce Palace, even when you're not thinking to visit the palace. The dates are between 1890-1895 and like the palace, at the reign of Abdulmecit. The architect is Sarkis Balyan. It is a very impressive clock tower with all its details. Below it, there is a cosy café with a sea view.



Selamlık: Selamlik is generally a building, reserved for men at Ottomans. The sultan used to host his political guests here and there used to be diplomatic meeting. Women weren't allowed to enter this building. The selamlik of Dolmabahce Palace is quite extensive. Single visits aren't allowed. You should join an English (or a Turkish) tour with a guide. I think it is better to do that way, because you can have more information about the details.



Harem: Harem is generally the building, reserved for women (except the Sultan and eunuchs). Dolmabahce Harem has a couple of windows that allowed women watch the meeting from above the big hall. Dolmabahce Palace continued to be active, even after Ottoman Empire collapsed. Harem is also special for Turkish Republic, because Ataturk used to stay here at his Istanbul visits. At the tour, you will be able to see the bed he died, his study and his bathroom.



Painting Museum: This is one of the most impressive museums I've seen in Istanbul. If you aren't much into painting, it is still good. If you are into painting, you'll love it. There are about 200 original paintings in the museum, including Ottoman painters and foreign painters who painted for Ottomans. There are 11 galleries that are Sultan Abdulmecid, Westernization in Ottomans, Istanbul views from Abdulmecid, the paintings that were taken from Goupil gallery, Ivan Konstantinoviç Ayvazovski, imperial painters, orientalist painters, assistant painters, Turkish painters (1870-1890), the landscape at Ottoman Empire, Turkish painters (1890-1930).

This is in front of Selamlik (not from Painting Museum)

Clock Museum: This is an interesting museum with original clocks and watches. There are automatic machines from 18-19th century, glorious mechanics made by French masters, and beautiful works of Mawlawi watch makers from 19th century. 71 clocks and watches are displayed at the museum. Unfortunately, I couldn't make a way inside it. All the doors were closed and the building was surrounded with a fence.



Glassed Kiosk: This was the Ottomans' window to the world and the equal of regiment kiosk at Dolmabahce Palace. Sultans used to watch the parades from inside. There are two transitive halls and a glasshouse in the building. You can see animal reliefs, fireplaces, coffee tables and so on as decorations. There is a little pool in its garden and many animals, including a peacock, roosters, ducks, and pheasants.

Glassed Kiosk from outside

Dolmabahce Mosque


The construction of the mosque was started by the the mother of Sultan Abdulmecid, Bezmialem Valide Sultan. After her death Sultan Abdulhamid took over the project. Architect Garabet Balyan decorated the mosque. It was opened to worship in 1855.

It began to be used as Naval Museum after 1948. Following 27 May Coup in 1960, the mosque was evacuated and the Naval Museum was carried to Besiktas centre. The mosque became famous again at Gezi Park incidents.


Saturday, 27 June 2015

Kabatas: Gate to the Anatolian Coast


Kabatas means "rough stone" in Turkish. The neighbourhood supposedly took its name from a big rock, but today it isn't certain where the rock is or what it looks like.

Kabatas is between Findikli and Dolmabahce. It is a rather small neighbourhood, but its importance lies in the transportation. Kabatas is like a connection point.

It is on the opposite of Uskudar. So, many people who live at the Anatolian coast prefer to go to Kabatas and then get on other transportation means.


How to get in and out


Kabatas has a port. This means you can come from and go to the Anatolian coast. There are ferries and sea buses to Uskudar, Kadikoy, Bostanci and Prince Islands.

There is also a small bus terminal here. You can find buses to Sariyer, Bahcekoy, and many more.
Kabatas is the first and the terminal stop of Kabatas-Bagcilar tram that also passes from Sultanahmet.

It is very easy to come to Kabatas. You can even walk from Taksim or Besiktas.



What to do in Kabatas


Kabatas is very close to Dolmabahce, so if you come to Kabatas, you can walk for a couple of minutes and visit Dolmabahce Palace.

It is also close to Kucukciftlik Park, where many open air concerts take place.

Sunday, 17 May 2015

Ihlamur Kasri (Pavilion) with its Well-Kept Garden and Peacocks

Ihlamur is near Fulya neighbourhood between Nisantasi and Besiktas. Ihlamur means "linden" in Turkish. Today, although the yard is very colourful, there is not much linden odour left. It is a perfect place to wander around for a couple hours or have a refreshing breakfast.

A view from the yard. Unfortunately it is interrupted by skyscrapers. The building is the cortege pavilion.

Sultan Abdulmecit ordered the famous Armenian architect Nigogos Balyan to build two pavilions, one for ceremony, the other for cortege. (By the way, Balyan brothers were very famous at late Ottoman times. Nigogos Balyan was also the architect of Small Mecidiye Mosque, Dolmabahce Mosque, Adile Sultan Pavilion, Ortakoy Mosque or Big Mecidiye Mosque, Kucuksu Pavilion.) The orijinal Ihlamur Pavilion is the ceremony pavilion. It is bigger and heavily decorated. The cortege pavilion is smaller and plain compared to the former.

The ceremony pavilion.
After the death of Abdulmecit, Sultan Abdulaziz took care of his brother's favourite buildings (somehow less than him). He organized cock fights and ram fights in the garden. Then Sultan Mehmet Resat V took regular rests here. In 1910, Bulgarian and Serbian kings were was hosted here. Before the pavilions were built, the land was remembered as a resort. It had three sections, including a pool, a garden and an orchard. Then after some regulations at the reigns of Ahmed III, Abdulhamid I and Selim III it became the private garden of the sultans. (The people out!) One of the famous guests of the garden at that time was the French poet Lamartine.

A peacock from the garden.
Today, the buildings are museums. You can visit the garden by paying 1 TL and see the buildings from outside. I remember entering the building once when I was a university student. I had a couple of breakfast. I love to visit the garden in spring. If I'm lucky, I see a peacock.

How to get to Ihlamur Pavilion


Fulya is a prosperous neighbourhood. I can explain the lack of public transportation only with this. If you can afford it, you can take a taxi. However, it is an easy and short walk to the pavilion from Mecidiyekoy, Nisantasi or Besiktas. If you have half an hour and if the weather is fine, don't bother to walk.


Tuesday, 10 March 2015

Macka for a Nice City Walk

Macka is a neigbourhood between Besiktas and Harbiye. Macka supposedly took its name from people of Macka from Trabzon province, who were send to Istanbul by Mehmed the Conqueror after the conquest of Trabzon.

Macka is close to central districts, so I think it would be a nice part of a city walk. There are beautiful houses, some of which have a view of Marmara Sea (and presumably are expensive). Apart from the view, there are some interesting things in Macka, including a telfer, an open concert arena and old buildings.

Macka-Taskisla Telfer


This telfer has a short but pleasant route. It is over Macka Demokrasi Park and Beyoglu Marriage Office. It isn't actually for touristic purposes, it eases the traffic and transportation between the area. It works very frequently between 8:15-19.00, and every five minutes at working hours. It is only 3,5 minutes.

Istanbul Technical University Macka Campus


The main building of the campus was formerly Macka Armoury. It is a three-storey Ottoman building. Since 1955, it is used by Istanbul Technical University. It is really a massive and impressive building. Don't forget to take photos of it!


Kucukciftlik Park


This is a open concert and event area, where famous singers and bands have come and will probably come. (The names I've seen there: Scorpions, Thin Lizzy, Iron Maiden, Slipknot, Alice Cooper...) It was formerly a lunapark, but and there was a connection with park, but it was kind of weird to walk down there. When it became an event area in 2009, it came alive. It is partly operated as a closed hall in winter.

If the concert is very crowded, you feel like packed, but the transportation is so easy that I don't really mind. After concerts it is almost impossible to take a taxi because of the rush. Instead walk towards Besiktas or Gumusuyu-Taksim. 

Akaretler


Akaretler is actually a separate neighbourhood from Macka, but it is so close that it is good to mention about it. Akaretler Row Houses are between Macka and Besiktas. They are important examples of Istanbul architecture. The architect is Sarkis Balyan. (The Turkish-Armenian architect is famous for his impressive works, such as Macka Armoury mentioned above, Cıragan Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, Baltalimani Mansion, Sale Pavilion, Kagithane Mosque, and many more. His brother Agop is also a prolific architect.) These houses were intended for rental income to built Aziziye Mosque (Kagithane Mosque). Today they are residences and offices.




Transportation in Macka


You can take a walking route from Besiktas to Taksim visiting Macka, Tesvikiye, Nisantasi, Harbiye, and Elmadag. If you want to use a public transport, take a bus that goes between Besiktas and Nisantasi, such as Mecidiyekoy-Taksim bus, 30M. I prefer walking. You can also take a taxi, if you're not a great fan of slopes.

Where to Stay in Macka


There are some beautiful hotels in Macka (mostly of which are five star hotels), but you don't have to stay in Macka. For example, you can find a budget hotel at Besiktas.
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