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Showing posts with label gezi park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gezi park. Show all posts

Sunday, 8 February 2015

Taksim Square: The Most Political Square of Istanbul

Taksim Square is the most political square of Istanbul. The writer David Harvey says that a city cannot be without a square. The square is like the heart of a city that pomps blood to the rest of the city and streets. Taksim Square became a square with the Turkish Republic. Although Sultanahmet Square is the oldest square in Istanbul, Taksim breasts the protest for various reasons.

Every side of the square opens to a nice district. One street to Cihangir, one street to Elmadag-Harbiye, one street to Gumussuyu, one street to Macka and one street to Sishane. Gezi Park is the park that accompanies the square. The square beared witness to many protests and events throughout its history (some of which unfortunately ended bitterly). But buildings before history.



Taksim Maksemi


It is on the beginning of the Istiklal Street. Taksim means "distribution", maksem means "water reserve" in Turkish. The aim of the building was to create a solution to the water problem that arose from the increasing population. The construction operations had started in the reign of Ahmed III, but they had to be suspended because of Patrona Halil Riot. Mahmud I led the building finish. Today it is used as an exhibition hall. It usually host nice exhibitions, so I recommend you to visit the place.


Republic Monument


This was made by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. It was finished in 1928. The pedestal and the landscaping design belongs to Guilio Mongeri. The monument was brought from Rome to Istanbul by ship. It rests on a circular landscape. One side depicts The War of Independence, the other side depicts the new Turkish Republic. Today it is a famous ceremony and meeting point (with alway waiting some police cars waiting next to it).



Ataturk Cultural Center (AKM)


This is an unfortunate building. It is closed since 2008, but I wanted to mention it anyway. It is the big black building that will immediately catch your eye. Its name was originally Istanbul Cultural Palace in 1969. It was then the fourth biggest cultural center in the world. The performances included opera, balet, theatre, concert, and congress until 2008. In 2005, the culture minister of the time claimed that the building completed its time, but there were so many protests that the demolishment had to be cancelled in 2007. Since then there are rumours that it will be reconstructed, but neither it seems possible, nor we believe that it will be used as a cultural center again.



The Marmara Taksim Hotel


Before the hotel, there was a 19th century baroque mansion that was assigned to the French general manager of the Ottoman Bank. It was put into servise in 1976. There is a rumour that, on May 1st, 1977, aka the Bloody May 1st, there were shootings from upstairs. It was Etap Marmara Hotel then. Todaay it's a luxurious hotel which doesn't probably appeal to backpackers and students. (I'll try to ask for the price of its fitness center, anyway.)

Taksim Square, along with Gezi Park, was mentioned in June 2013 events. Under the name of the Pedestrianization Project, it was decided that the Taksim Square should be reconstructed, including the demolishment of Gezi Park, and rebuilding of Topcu Kislasi (Taksim Military Barracks). The plan backfired, but the Taksim Square is a big, grey, aimless and untended square since then. Again, there are rumours that there will be arrangements when the spring comes. We'll the what the spring brings.



History


At the beginning, the city hadn't reached the area of Taksim Square yet. The Grand Rue de Péra (Istiklal Street) ended, and the rest began. The area didn't even have a path to walk. There were sparse trees. There was an enormous graveyard (Ayaspasa Graveyard) then. The AKM part hosted Muslim graves, the Gezi Park part hosted Armenians graves. The Armenian graveyard is carried to Sisli-Mecidiyekoy today (and along with other graveyards, it is the only green area of Mecidiyekoy). The idea was then to bury the death, especially the plague victims to a remote place.

The Taksim Maksemi was put into service in 18th century, and it carried water from Belgrade Forests on Catalca Peninsula to Istiklal Street over Levent-Mecidiyekoy. Taksim Hazinesi (treasury) was built at the same date, and it was used as a water reserve.

Topcu Kislasi (Taksim Military Barracks) was on the area where Gezi Park is now. There were barns on the area of AKM. The empty space on the opposite of the Barracks was talimhane, meaning training area for soldiers. (Today it is Talimhane, which is famous for its hotels.) Ayaspasa Graveyard began to be removed part by part, first for Gumussuyu Military Hospital (built for the soldiers in Mecidiye Barracks, now Istanbul Technical University Taskisla Building).

One of the events that the building witnessed was 31 March Incident. The soldiers revolted against their officers, shoting "we want sharia!" In 20's and 30's, the building was emptied and was used as a stadium. Ayaspasa Graveyard was fully demolished by then. Taksim Military Barracks was demolished in 1940. After that, Gezi Park was built and it is still there.



Where is Taksim Square


Taksim Square is in Beyoğlu district, and is near the Istiklal Street. You can use the metro of which main station was Taksim, but now it is connected to Yenikapi line. By that line, you can go as far as Ataturk International Airport. Another line goes to Osmanbey, Mecidiyekoy, Levent, until Haciosman.

There is a bus line almost to everywhere in Istanbul. Bus stops were carried underground, and some lines were separated. If you like to go towards Sishane (Aksaray, Bakirkoy, etc), you will go underground and wait for the bus to come. If you like to go towards Besiktas (Arnavutkoy, Sariyer, etc), you will walk on the street that leads to Macka. After a couple streets, you will see the Ataturk Library on the right. The buses are waiting on the area in front of the library. (By the way, it is the biggest library in Istanbul.)

Thursday, 11 December 2014

Talimhane Hotels: The Address to Superfine Holidays

Talimhane is actually a neighbourhood of Beyoglu. It is very close to Taksim Square and Gezi Park. Talimhane was once an exercise place for the army. Today it serves an entirely different purpose. It hosts many superfine hotels. You can also find fine restaurants around.

The list of hotels at the entrance near Gezi Park.

There are many hotels at Talimhane. Not all of them may be suitable for backpackers and students, but you can check them out for they are so central. There are boutique hotels, 4 star hotels, 5 star hotels and luxurious hotels. When you walk straight from this entrance to the end of the road, you'll reach Tarlabasi. Some Tarlabasi hotels are also counted as Talimhane hotels, because Talimhane doesn't have strict borders and it is okay that way.

Only pedestrians!

Talimhane is closed to traffic. So it is fun to walk around. You can go there by any means that takes you to Taksim Square. It is only one or two minutes walk from the square. By the way, you see the "P" of the Point Hotel at the right of the picture. And the right of it, there are Havatas buses that takes you to either Ataturk International Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport (with a fair price).

Monday, 1 December 2014

Gezi Park: The Rebellious Park of Istanbul

Gezi Park would probably be just another park in a city, if it hadn't hosted the greatest "social" demonstration in the history of Turkey. "It all started with a tree", you would hear. But when the police used disproportionate force against peaceful protesters who wanted to protect Gezi Park from becoming barracks, things went crazy. For a couple of months, flying gas canisters were a usual scene from Taksim to Galata and to Harbiye, and also at Kadikoy. It is worth to remind that despite fierce political sayings, the park is still there, safe and sound, and I'm glad to tell you about it.



The History of Gezi Park


When you see Gezi Park, you may find it small in comparision with other parks at other big cities in the world. But the park's newly assigned historical significance makes it larger than life. However, it doesn't mean the only historical memory of the park.

Let's start with earlier records. The area including Gezi Park, Divan Hotel (the hotel next to the park that let the protestors in when the violence was at its peak), Hyatt Regency Hotel, and some parts of Istanbul Radyoevi (broadcasting house) and Harbiye Orduevi (military museum and cultural center of command) was Pancaldi Armenian Graveyard, or Surp Agop Graveyard. (Surp Agop Apartment still exists, but the hospital was demolished last year and the apartment serves as a polyclinic. The graveyard being at the opposite of the hospital was plausible indeed.) The land was given to Armenians in about 1560, when there was a plague. From then on, it was used as a graveyard.

At that time, Pancaldi, Harbiye and Elmadag was considered as being outside the city. The "core" Istanbul was approximately the part where today Eminonu, Karakoy, Galata and Pera (the far end of Istiklal Street). So, the dead was allowed to be buried only outside Istanbul. In 1853, it was confined with walls. In 1856, the name plate was put. In 1865, with the cholera epidemic, burial processes were banned due to its "proximity" to the city. (Things change.)

In 1872, the municipality comandeer the area but Sultan Abdulaziz enacted an addict announcing it belonged to Armenians. In 1926, the burial processes were entirely banned and it was decided that the graveyard was to be transferred to some other place. In 1931, Istanbul Municipality that the land should be assigned to it. The case was closed in 1934 and the large part was given to the municipality. In 1938, it was announced that the graveyard would be demolished and fifteen days were given to transfer the graves, if interested.

The yellow building is Divan Hotel.

In 1939, the graveyard was totally demolished, along with Khor Virap Church. The gravestones were used for the stairs of Yeni Cami (New Mosque) in Eminonu, and for the stairs of Gezi Park, which was being built at that time.

Let's move to another historical part. In 1806, Halil Pasa Topcu Kislasi (Halil Pasha Artillery Barracks) was built at today's Gezi Park. At 31 March Incident, it became the headquarters of rebels who were -in brief- in favour of sharia, and against more liberal policies of Ittihak Terakki Cemiyeti, Party of Union and Progress. (Maybe, things never change.) The rebellion was suppressed by the army.

As Beyoglu (the district which also comprises Taksim, in case you're confused) developed towards Sisli, the barracks lost its function and it became a stadium in 1922. Henry Proust, the controversial city planner, offered authorities a plan that involved Nisantasi, Harbiye, Dolmabahce and Gezi Park. In 1940, after the stadium was demolished, Gezi Park became the first park of the Republic (of which steps were carried from the demolished graveyard).

Well, it isn't a coincidence for Gezi Park to host such heated protests.

Those were the days, my friend.


Where is Gezi Park?


Gezi Park is stuated close to Taksim Square, which is unfortunately a big gray gap nowadays. If you put Taksim on your front, the left road will take you to Macka and ultimately to Besiktas or Kabatas. The right road will take you to Elmadag and Harbiye with a ten minute walk, or Nisantasi with a fifteen minute walk. If you like, you can take the metro from Taksim and go to Osmanbey (adjecent to Nisantasi), Sisli, Mecidiyekoy and further stations.

The bus stations were carried under ground to save Taksim from traffic (and probably with frustration due to the cancellation of "new Taksim" plan). It's a little tricky right now. If you want to get on the buses which passes from Besiktas (and to the coastline, that is Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Tarabya, Sariyer, etc., or the Anatolian coast, that is Kadikoy, Bostanci, etc.), you should walk left from the Gezi Park for a while to reach the bus station next to Ataturk Library. If you like to get on a bus which passes from Sishane (to Karakoy, Eminonu, Aksaray, Beyazit, Laleli, Bayrampasa Main Bus Station, Ataturk International Airport, etc.), you should walk down to the station which has an entrance facing Gezi Park. It seems complicated at the first time. It really is. Once I gave up to meet my friend at Kadikoy.

As I mentioned above, Gezi Park is relatively small. You can walk around in ten minutes at best. However, if you sit on a bench or cobblestones, it will take hours to contemplate on its history.


Friday, 28 November 2014

Babil Street is Unlike Any Street You Know

Babil Street (Babil Sokak) is not the first place to read when you're searching for Istanbul. But it is one of the most vibrant streets in Elmadag, Istanbul, very close to Taksim.

Babil is the Turkish word for Babylon. You know Babylon was an ancient civilization that was famous for various nationalities of its inhabitants. Contemporary Babil almost represents its predecessor (except that it doesn't have a tower but series of buildings).

What is special about this street? Well, let me tell you my story shortly. About ten years ago, when I was working for a small publishing house in Cagaloglu (a district next to Sultanahmet), my boss wanted me to deliver some books here in Babil Street. I fell in love with the street then. Here I am now, with a little coincidence. After more than two years, I have never been bored and I don't think I ever will.

Babil Street is special for many reasons, especially for what it is and where it is.



What is Babil Street?


Babil Street is actually a very crowded and loudy street. But its elements merge in such harmony that you get addicted to the action. It's one of the rare places that you'll hear at least five languages (English, German, Arabic, Italian, Chinese, etc.) when you woke up, street cats fighting each other (Istanbul has lots of cats and Babil Sokak is no exception), sometimes people arguing but mostly Erasmus students laughing.

It looks mostly traditional with three or four storey apartments, women hanging down baskets for their market orders, children playing and youth talking on the street. It also looks contemporary with newly built suites. While the parallel streets are almost ghostly, in Babil Street you can find any shops you'd like to. From a tailor, a dry-cleaning, a locksmith, several markets, photographers to restaurants, a barbershop, a hairdresser, a real estate agency, stationeries, a baker, a drug store and many more.

These are only on the street at the enterance level. Try to imagine what may be above enterance. (Travel agencies are just one example.) And an entrepreneurial landlady owns a place where she cooks Spanish food with her husband. Babil Sokak is full of surprises!

Babil Street is also interesting in terms of religion. The first street intersecting Babil Sokak, Papa Roncalli Sokak, houses St. Esprit Cathedral within the confines of Notre Dame de Sion, a French high school. (It's also close to the Vatican Embassy.) The second street intersecting Babil Sokak, Harbiye Cayiri Sokak, houses a mosque at the basement of an apartment and a loudspeaker on the top.



Where is Babil Street?


Babil Street is in Elmadag, Sisli, Istanbul. It is ten minute walk to and from Taksim and Gezi Park, and Nisantasi and Tesvikiye the other way round.

If you are an expat in Istanbul, you'll probably go to work easily with buses or the subway. Business districts, such as Mecidiyekoy, Gayrettepe, Levent and Maslak are a couple of stations away from here.

It takes five minutes to walk to Dolapdere. It is not as a safe district as Harbiye or Elmadag, but nothing will likely happen in day light and early in the evening. Some famous cargos and some big hotels are here, and it is a quiet alternative to walk home than Cumhuriyet Street.

By foot, you can also go to Muhsin Ertugrul Theatre Hall, Lutfi Kirdar International Congress and Exhibition Hall, Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall and Kucukciftlik Park.

Where to Stay?


There are no big hotels at Babil Street. But it hosts several cosy suites that Erasmus students and travels at any age choose to stay. Any part of the street is favourable to stay. You can learn about the suites from travellers who stayed there. Babil Sokak and generally Elmadag (I'm inclined to say here is a part of Harbiye). I think prices are lower than Taksim, but not lower than any other non-touristic place in Istanbul.

I hope you enjoy Babil Street and the surprises it offers to you!
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