9 Nostalgic Istanbul Songs

Istanbul is a global capital with its characteristics, but old Istanbul has much more distinctive futures as a blend of the East and the West. This list brings you some of the sweetest melodies of Istanbul between 1930's to 1960's.

1. Istanbul'un Kizlari (Istanbul Girls)

Dario Moreno's Istanbul Kizlari compliments on all the girls in Istanbul, but he insists that one of them is special. Dario Moreno is a famous singer, guitarist, pianist and actor, born in Aydin, Turkey, with Jewish descent. I think all of his songs are very good, but I had to choose the ones about Istanbul.

2. Istanbul pas Constantinople (Istanbul not Constantinople)

This song isn't an example of old Istanbul songs, but it is about old Istanbul and all the covers are good. Dario Moreno has also covered the song but I will share two other versions. First the nostalgic one:


And the newer one:

3. Uskudar'a Giderken (While Going to Istanbul)

This song is about a woman who songs a love song to her love who works as a clerk at Uskudar. The famous Turkish classical music performer Safiye Ayla has a silky voice, as you will hear below.

 3. Yangin Olur, Biz Yangina Gideriz (When There is Fire, We Go to Extinguish It)

This song is interestingly the anthem of Ottoman fire brigades. The version I will share is a recent one, but the melody is still catchy.

4. Bayan Bana Bak (Madame, Look At Me)

This song is a canto song, sung by a man and a woman. The man flirts with the woman, the woman feigns reluctance (in the end, she is convinced). The video is also remarkable, as a 2001 French animation film.

5. Kiz Sen Istanbul'un Neresindensin (Girl, Which Part of Istanbul Are You From)

This song is about a man who is taken guesses about his lover, such as which part of Istanbul she is from (and he almost counts every district), whether she is married or single. I will share the version that famous Emel Sayin sings. (Emel Sayin is a famous, talented, elegant and beautiful Turkish classical music performer.)

6. Kadikoylu (From Kadikoy)

This is also a love song written to a woman from Kadikoy. One of the best versions is the one sung by Deniz Kizi Eftelya (Mermaid Eftalia), who was especially famous at Galata cafes. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk also liked her songs after a performance and she gained reputation.

7. Bir Tatlı Huzur Almaya Geldik Kalamis'tan (We Came to Take Some Serenity From Kalamis)

This song is quite famous, if the place is a raki table (which song on this list isn't, though?) It is a serenade for Kalamis, which is on the Anatolian coast. Here we listen the song again with the voice of Emel Sayin.

8. Ada Sahillerinde Bekliyorum (I'm Waiting on the Island Beaches)

This song has some rumours about it. One rumour is that it is about a woman who is waiting for her lover to come back (from the waters he was lost?). Another rumour is that the woman wanted to open up to her lover and she wrote this song with the help of the residents of the island. The island is one of the Prince Islands, probably Buyukada, the biggest one. However, Sadiye Sultan, the daughter of Sultan Abdulhamit told that it was written for her by Ali Namik Bey, because he felt that she was becoming distant. Hamiyet Yuceses is one of the names who sings this song at best.

9. Biz Heybeli'de Her Gece Mehtaba Çıkardık (Every Night At Heybeli We Would Go For Walk In the Moonlight)

This song is a little big like the classical Turkish version of "Those were the days my friend". A couple of friends remember their good old days on Heybeli Island. Heybeli is the second biggest island of Prince Islands. Munir Nurettin Selcuk is one of the best performers of this song. If this song doesn't make you grab a bottle of raki, almost nothing will.

7 Movies That Take Place in Istanbul

Looking for something to watch for the weekend? Here is a list of movies that totally or partly take place in Istanbul. (Images are fromWikipedia.)

1. Tink Tailor Soldier Spy (2011)

Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy is like a hall of fame: Tom Hardy, Colin Firth, Gary Oldman, John Hurt. This movie is a really good spy film (and more than that). It is also different than the other movies I'll tell you, because you'll see the steamboats instead of Sultanahmet and other touristic places.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1340800/

2. Argo (2012)

Argo has won an Oscar and some other awards. It is an exciting semi-political film. You'll openly see the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. But the places that are shown as Iran are also from a district of Istanbul, Bakirkoy.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1024648/

3. From Russia With Love (1963)

From Russia with Love is one of the James Bond movies that takes place in Istanbul. There is one of the best James Bonds, Sean Connery, beautiful women and fierce enemies, together with Istanbul. You'll see again the favourite historical bazaars and mosques.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0057076/

4. Skyfall (2012)

Skyfall is another James Bond movie with Daniel Craig and good soundtrack. It also takes place in Istanbul and the choice of places doesn't change. You'll see artifacts around Sultanahmet, Eminonu, Karakoy, etc.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1074638/

5. Murder on the Orient Express (1974)

Murder on the Orient Express is adapted from the famous Agatha Christie novel. Agatha Christie had stayed at Pera Palace Hotel. Her stay had been as mysterious as her novels. She said that the secret of her lost days in England. Later, a key was found under the floor of Room 411. Another key was also found under the floor of 511. And this mystery hasn't been solved yet!

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071877/

6. Topkapi (1964)

Topkapi is all about a theft at Topkapi Palace. (It is full of valuable things, after all!) You'll also watch the deceased actor, Peter Ustinov. The cast is quiet amusing and the movie itself grabs the watchers. For nostalgia lovers!

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058672/

7. The Accidental Spy (2011)

The Accidental Spy is a movie of Jackie Chan. The special thing about the movie is that my father witnessed its shooting! He used to work at the Spice Bazaar (or Egyptian Bazaar- Misir Carsisi) then. He told that everyone involved were very hard working and rigorous, taking care of every detail.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0271946/

Taksim Square: The Most Political Square of Istanbul

Taksim Square is the most political square of Istanbul. The writer David Harvey says that a city cannot be without a square. The square is like the heart of a city that pomps blood to the rest of the city and streets. Taksim Square became a square with the Turkish Republic. Although Sultanahmet Square is the oldest square in Istanbul, Taksim breasts the protest for various reasons.

Every side of the square opens to a nice district. One street to Cihangir, one street to Elmadag-Harbiye, one street to Gumussuyu, one street to Macka and one street to Sishane. Gezi Park is the park that accompanies the square. The square beared witness to many protests and events throughout its history (some of which unfortunately ended bitterly). But buildings before history.

Taksim Maksemi

It is on the beginning of the Istiklal Street. Taksim means "distribution", maksem means "water reserve" in Turkish. The aim of the building was to create a solution to the water problem that arose from the increasing population. The construction operations had started in the reign of Ahmed III, but they had to be suspended because of Patrona Halil Riot. Mahmud I led the building finish. Today it is used as an exhibition hall. It usually host nice exhibitions, so I recommend you to visit the place.

Republic Monument

This was made by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. It was finished in 1928. The pedestal and the landscaping design belongs to Guilio Mongeri. The monument was brought from Rome to Istanbul by ship. It rests on a circular landscape. One side depicts The War of Independence, the other side depicts the new Turkish Republic. Today it is a famous ceremony and meeting point (with alway waiting some police cars waiting next to it).

Ataturk Cultural Center (AKM)

This is an unfortunate building. It is closed since 2008, but I wanted to mention it anyway. It is the big black building that will immediately catch your eye. Its name was originally Istanbul Cultural Palace in 1969. It was then the fourth biggest cultural center in the world. The performances included opera, balet, theatre, concert, and congress until 2008. In 2005, the culture minister of the time claimed that the building completed its time, but there were so many protests that the demolishment had to be cancelled in 2007. Since then there are rumours that it will be reconstructed, but neither it seems possible, nor we believe that it will be used as a cultural center again.

The Marmara Taksim Hotel

Before the hotel, there was a 19th century baroque mansion that was assigned to the French general manager of the Ottoman Bank. It was put into servise in 1976. There is a rumour that, on May 1st, 1977, aka the Bloody May 1st, there were shootings from upstairs. It was Etap Marmara Hotel then. Todaay it's a luxurious hotel which doesn't probably appeal to backpackers and students. (I'll try to ask for the price of its fitness center, anyway.)

Taksim Square, along with Gezi Park, was mentioned in June 2013 events. Under the name of the Pedestrianization Project, it was decided that the Taksim Square should be reconstructed, including the demolishment of Gezi Park, and rebuilding of Topcu Kislasi (Taksim Military Barracks). The plan backfired, but the Taksim Square is a big, grey, aimless and untended square since then. Again, there are rumours that there will be arrangements when the spring comes. We'll the what the spring brings.

History

At the beginning, the city hadn't reached the area of Taksim Square yet. The Grand Rue de Péra (Istiklal Street) ended, and the rest began. The area didn't even have a path to walk. There were sparse trees. There was an enormous graveyard (Ayaspasa Graveyard) then. The AKM part hosted Muslim graves, the Gezi Park part hosted Armenians graves. The Armenian graveyard is carried to Sisli-Mecidiyekoy today (and along with other graveyards, it is the only green area of Mecidiyekoy). The idea was then to bury the death, especially the plague victims to a remote place.

The Taksim Maksemi was put into service in 18th century, and it carried water from Belgrade Forests on Catalca Peninsula to Istiklal Street over Levent-Mecidiyekoy. Taksim Hazinesi (treasury) was built at the same date, and it was used as a water reserve.

Topcu Kislasi (Taksim Military Barracks) was on the area where Gezi Park is now. There were barns on the area of AKM. The empty space on the opposite of the Barracks was talimhane, meaning training area for soldiers. (Today it is Talimhane, which is famous for its hotels.) Ayaspasa Graveyard began to be removed part by part, first for Gumussuyu Military Hospital (built for the soldiers in Mecidiye Barracks, now Istanbul Technical University Taskisla Building).

One of the events that the building witnessed was 31 March Incident. The soldiers revolted against their officers, shoting "we want sharia!" In 20's and 30's, the building was emptied and was used as a stadium. Ayaspasa Graveyard was fully demolished by then. Taksim Military Barracks was demolished in 1940. After that, Gezi Park was built and it is still there.

Where is Taksim Square

Taksim Square is in Beyoğlu district, and is near the Istiklal Street. You can use the metro of which main station was Taksim, but now it is connected to Yenikapi line. By that line, you can go as far as Ataturk International Airport. Another line goes to Osmanbey, Mecidiyekoy, Levent, until Haciosman.

There is a bus line almost to everywhere in Istanbul. Bus stops were carried underground, and some lines were separated. If you like to go towards Sishane (Aksaray, Bakirkoy, etc), you will go underground and wait for the bus to come. If you like to go towards Besiktas (Arnavutkoy, Sariyer, etc), you will walk on the street that leads to Macka. After a couple streets, you will see the Ataturk Library on the right. The buses are waiting on the area in front of the library. (By the way, it is the biggest library in Istanbul.)

Pangalti: District with a Levantine History

Pangalti Armenian Catholic Church

Pangalti witnessed a historical turning point. The first Labour Day was celebrated here on May 1st, 1912. The gathering place of the workers was the Belvu Garden, which doesn't exist today. (It is hard to find something green between Sisli and Taksim, except graveyards.)

Agos Newspaper is at Pangalti. Its address says Osmanbey, but the confines are vague between them. Agos means "planting seed" in Armenian. On January 19, 2007, the Armenian journalist Hrant Dink was shot dead in front of the newspaper building. One of the paving stones is a memorial stone, keep your eyes down and open, while you're walking.

Pangalti is quite a cosy street. There are markets and beautiful old houses everywhere.

Pangalti hotels

Pangalti is a very central district and houses some big hotels, including Ramada Hotel. There are also residences and suites. Everything here is central, so look for the price and comfort.

Pangalti transportation

The Dolapdere exit of Osmanbey metro stop is just in the middle of the street, and next to the exit, there is a bus stop. You can walk to Osmanbey, Kurtulus, Harbiye, Nisantasi and even Taksim.

Nisantasi: Let's Get a Little Bit Fancy

Nisantasi is named after the marking stone (nisantasi) on the intersection of Tesvikiye Street and Rumeli Street. It contains the close parts of Mesrutiyet and Tesvikiye neighbourhoods around Vali Konagi. The neigbours of Nisantasi are Macka, Harbiye, Osmanbey and Tesvikiye. Nisantasi is famous for globally known brands and cafés. I also like the old and beautiful houses and the comfortable atmosphere.

Valikonagi Street is the biggest street of Nisantasi. "Vali konagi" means "the governor's mansion" in Turkish. The mention of the Istanbul governor is literally there. The governor changes, but the use of the mansion doesn't change. You will notice the building on the opposite of Mim Kemal Oke Street. On the same street, there is also the house that famous architect, Vedat Tek himself designed.



Nisantasi usually hosts the best New Year's celebrations in Istanbul. The second biggest street, Abdi İpekçi Caddesi is decorated with trees and lights. The New Year celebrations were cancelled due to budgetary savings.

Visit the Demokrasi Park, whenever you can. It is literally full of cats! Most of my cat photos are taken there. There are benches and a little tea house to pass lovely time. And again, cats. (I even saw a rooster there.) The most luxurious cat houses are there. That's Nisantasi!

History

To repeat again, Nisantasi is named after the marking stone. Actually there are three stone signs, the third one is on the yard of a building at Ihlamur Yolu (I'll try to find it for you). The third and the second one are from the reign of Mahmut II in 1811. The first stone, our stone in question, is from the reign of Selim III in 1790-1791.

It is hard to separate Tesvikiye and Nisantasi. Before a different blog post about Tesvikiye (meaning incentive, encouragement), some summary is needed here. Selim III ordered the neo-classical police station and the neo-baroque Tesvikiye Mosque. Selim III ordered two stones which marked the beginning and the ending of the quarter. (Third one? I don't know.)

After the Balkan Wars in 1912-1913, Turks from Macedonia and Thessaloniki moved to Nisantasi. The family of Nâzim Hikmet was also among them. (Nâzim Hikmet was born in Thessaloniki.) There were also Greek, Jewish, Armenian and Levantine citizens. I don't know have many of them are left after the events at September 6-7, 1955, which affected mostly Taksim, Pangalti, Harbiye and Nisantasi.

Where is Nisantasi

Nisantasi is in Sisli district and it is quite close to Taksim and Mecidiyekoy. The transportation options are vast. I love the streets around Halaskargazi and Cumhuriyet streets. Walking from Taksim or Mecidiyekoy will take at most 20-30 minutes.

The traffic jam isn't so bad, compared to the rest of Istanbul, unless you run into work hours. The working hours usually affect the direction to Mecidiyekoy at evenings (That's my deduction as a person who works at Mecidiyekoy).

So, if you like to get on the bus, it is also a viable option (Osmanbey and Pangalti stops are both okay.) Read the bus signs. There are many buses that use Halaskargazi and Cumhuriyet streets (Mecidiyekoy-Sisli-Osmanbey-Pangalti-Harbiye-Elmadag-Taksim line is one of the most lively lines in Istanbul.)

You can also try the metro, but if you are coming from Taksim or Mecidiyekoy, it is not worthwhile to travel underground. The undergrounds in Istanbul are so underground that it is more practical to walk when the destination is Nisantasi. The name of the metro stop is Osmanbey. There are different exits which are all walkable, even if you choose the wrong one.

From Nisantasi, you can walk to Fulya and Besiktas.

Tips

* Nisantasi is one of the richest and kindest districts in Istanbul. I think, it is also one of the safest. The interesting thing is that even thinner addicts say please, if they are in Nisantasi or somewhere close.

* Nisantasi has shops, restaurants and cafés for every budget. However, still check the prices, in case you enter somewhere expensive. The attitudes are better than Taksim and Sultanahmet, so the need for bargaining may be less.

* Walking in Istanbul requires to look ahead, but don't miss the beautiful building. Take numbers of photos. Nisantasi is one of the few places in Istanbul, where a single woman taking photos draws almost no attention. (If someone here or at any part of Istanbul says "photo, photo" looking at your face smiling, just ignore that creature.)

* Nisantasi University has almost nothing to do with Nisantasi. There is just a small building at Kurtulus and the rest is somewhere irrelevant.