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Tuesday 23 December 2014

Traditional Turkish Drinks and Where to Drink Them in Istanbul

Turkey has a wide range of traditional drinks and they taste really good. Some of them you can drink any time in the day and some of them are better at special occasions. Here are the most famous traditional drink and some tips about the best places to try them.

1. Turk Kahvesi - Turkish Coffee


This is one of the most famous drinks in Turkey and it is world wide known hard coffee. It is traditionally served with a little coffee cup and a little glass of water. On the plate of the cup is placed a piece of lokum (Turkish delight). Less traditional places may place a piece of chocolate or cookie. The reason for the dessert is that the coffee may be bitter and it serves as sugar. But you don't only have "no sugar" choice; you may order "middle sugary" or "very sugary". The coffee is cooked in a cezve, a coffee pot (traditionally in a copper one, but that is not always the case), or on hot ash. The best coffee should have a thick layer of foam on it.

You can drink delicious Turkish coffee around Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Bazaar) and Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar). You can also buy fresh coffee from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi and make your coffee yourself. Bebek Kahvesi at Bebek is also very famous and has a beautiful sea view.



2. Cay - Tea


When you say tea in Turkish, you will be served boiled black tea with the colour red. The tea glass is described as "slim-waisted" (it was recently and interestingly chosen as the best whiskey glass by a website) and the tea colour is described as "rabbit's blood" (it sounds fierce, but the best tea is must be such vivid red). Tea lovers are divided in two: The ones who claim that real tea must be sugar free and the others who think it doesn't matter. Try both ways to decide.

There are many places to drink delicious tea, but the little tea houses are generally the best. There are many at the coasts. Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi houses a cosy one. One of the most famous and crowded tea houses in Istanbul belongs to "Mustafa amca" at Hazzopulo Pasaji. That passage hosts many tea houses and all of them are crowded at any time of the day and the week.



3. Ayran


Ayran is my favourite soft drink along with lemonade. It is made by adding adequate quantity of water and mixing both with a little salt. (I tried ayran two times at Varna, Bulgaria. I guess it was made from buttermilk and tasted sweeter.) Some restaurants ask you if you like "open ayran" or "closed ayran". If you can't trust the hygene of the place, prefer "closed ayran" which is packaged. However, there are some restaurants that you shouldn't miss "open ayran".  "Open ayran" is mixed at the restaurant and is served with an extra added "kopuk (foam)".

You can find closed ayrans at any market, but open ayran should be tried at particular places. What comes to my mind is Buket Lahmacun & Kebap at Mecidiyekoy. (Its "lahmacun"s are a different story). Open ayran is usually served in glasses, but this one serves it with copper bowl and you drink it with a small ladle.



4. Boza


Boza is an interesting drink. It is so thick that it may be eaten with a spoon. Not everyone likes the taste, but the ones who love it, love it till the end. It is made from corn semolina, water and sugar. It is usually referred as a winter drink, but if you came to Istanbul at another season, you can surely try it. Beware that boza gets spoiled in 6 or 7 days, so drink it fresh. There are also bottled bozas, but I don't think they taste as good.

Until quite recently, especially at winter nights, boza seller would wander at the streets and would call out: "Booozaaaa!". There are still boza sellers, but they are much less in number. The most famous place to drink boza in Istanbul is Vefa Bozacisi. It is almost the one and the only name about boza. Vefa Bozacisi was opened in 1876 and as you would guess, it is a witness of important historical events that took place in Istanbul. It is at the beginning of Unkapani Manifaturacilar Carsisi and at the corner of Vefa Lisesi. There you can also try "şıra" which will be explained below.

5. Şıra


Şıra is unfermented grape or sometimes apple, and it almost tastes like non-alcoholic wine. It contains a high quantity of fructose, so it is rather sweet. It is dark red in colour. It is usually served with Iskender kebap and other kinds of kebabs.

You can find şıra at restaurants and they also found bottled at markets.

6. Salgam Suyu - Turnip Juice


Turnip juice is a specialty of Cukurova Region, but it can be found all around Turkey. It is red, cloudy and sour. It may be bitter or not. Bitter taste is usually given with a special pickle juice. Turnip juice is generally served with black carrot and drank with kebab, as well as raki and appetizers.

It is found at traditional restaurants. You can also buy it bottled from markets.

7. Salep


Here comes the drink of drinks of wintertime. Salep is a very delicious hot drink. It is made from the tuberous root of the orchide. The powder is mixed with milk and sugar. Proportions and freshness is vitally important for the best taste. It is served in a cup with some cinemmon sprinkled on it.

I think the best salep is the one you buy from the herbalist and do at home. The salep of the restaurant chains Kahve Dunyasi, Mado, Sutis and Saray Muhallebicisi are all right. However, I won't suggest you the moderate prices this time. For salep is an expensive drink, you should pay more to drink a real one.

8. Raki


Raki is the traditional alcoholic drink. It is served with its bottle, a bottle of water, two glasses for each person and a little bucket of ice that you put with tongs. You or your friends at the table serve raki. Most people don't feel more than the half of the glass, because it is a very hard drink. You fill the rest of the glass with water and the other glass with water (if you like, turnip juice can be served instead of water). The drink looks milky. After all, it's nickname is "lion's milk".

Apart from other drinks, raki has a special culture. There are many unwritten rules and written books about it. From the way you hold the glass to the topics you talk at the table, everything is included in this culture. But don't worry and enjoy your drink. Nobody will criticise you for trying raki.

Qualified raki brands are available at markets and meyhanes (Turkish traditional pubs). Mezes (appetizers) have a great importance. They may include mashed aubergines, mashed chickpeas, spiced yoghurt, and so on. The more you try, the more you'll discover unique tastes. Most meyhanes at Taksim, Kumkapi and Kadikoy are good at raki tables. But try to check the menu and prices first.

9. Sarap - Wine


For red wine, there are three kinds of grapes that come to mind first: Okuzgozu from East Anatolia, Bogazkere from Southeast Anatolia, and Kalecik Karasi from Ankara. There are also local white wines.

10. Bira - Beer


There are not many local beer brands in Turkey, compared to Europe. But the famous brands are available at markets, package stores and pubs.

Thursday 18 December 2014

Best 3D Cinemas in Istanbul

3D movies began with Avatar and it became an exciting branch of cinema. This week the last part of legendary Hobbit trilogy, Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies, has come out. All the fans are so excited. In case you are in Istanbul, you are lucky. There are many movie houses in Istanbul.



3D movie houses have different formats, such as IMAX and XPAND. IMAX is available only at Istinye Park and Marmara Park. Here is the list of them:

European Coast:



  • Beyoglu Atlas
  • Beyoglu Cinemaximum (Fitas)
  • Nisantasi CityLife (City's AVM)
  • Osmanbey Gazi
  • Mecidiyekoy Maximum (Cevahir)
  • Sisli Cinemaximum (Trump Towers)
  • Mecidiyekoy Profilo AVM
  • Zincirlikuyu Cinemaximum Zorlu Center
  • Levent Cinemaximum (Kanyon)
  • Levent Saphire Cinema Pink
  • Levent Ozdilek Cinetime
  • Etiler Akmerkez Cinema Pink
  • Istinye Cinemaximum (Istinye Park) IMAX
  • Deniz Private Cinecity Etiler
  • Fatih Cinemaximum (Historia)
  • Bakirkoy Cinemaximum (Marmara Forum)
  • Bakirkoy Cinemaximum (Capacity)
  • Bakirkoy Carousel Cinema Pink
  • Atakoy Cinemaximum (Atakoy Plus)
  • Florya Cinemaximum Aqua
  • Florya Cinefly Flyinn
  • Bayrampasa Cinemaximum (Forum Istanbul)
  • Eyup Cinemaximum (Vialand)
  • Gungoren Cinemaximum (Kale)
  • Bagcilar Site
  • Bagcilar 212 AVM Cinemarine
  • Esenler Espri Site
  • Bahcelievler Metroport Cine Vip
  • Maslak TIM
  • Yesilkoy Airport Cinemas
  • Deniz Private Cinecity Trio Atasehir
  • Yenibosna Starcity Site
  • Atasehir Novada Avsar
  • Sefakoy Sinemay Armoni Park
  • Esenyurt Cinemaximum Akbati
  • Beylikduzu Cinemaximum Marmara Park IMAX


Anatolian (Asian) Coast:



  • Altunizade Capitol Spectrum
  • Kadikoy Cinemaximum (Nautilus)
  • Kadikoy Rexx
  • Acibadem Cinemaximum (Akasya)
  • Göztepe Avsar Optimum
  • Caddebostan Cinemaximum (Budak)
  • Kozyatagi Avsar Kozzy
  • Umraniye Cinemaximum (Meydan)

Transportation in Istanbul

Transportation in Istanbul is rather developed. You can reach almost everywhere with public or private transport. We have tickets and tokens but we prefer "Akbil". Akbil is a practical and electronic ticketing system which is cheaper than the individual tickets and helps you to save time.

Istanbul always have a traffic jam, but it is important to avoid working hours, 7 to 9 in the morning and 6-8 in the evening. At those times both the traffic jam is heavy and everywhere is too crowded. Here are the public transport means you can use:

1. Metro


Metro is one of the most comfortable vehicles in Istanbul. The only downside is that sometimes it is so deep underground that you have to walk much. They are frequent, you won't wait long.

Metro lines available in Istanbul:
- Yenikapi-Ataturk Havalimani
- Yenikapi-Kirazli
- Yenikapi-Haciosman (among it stops are Taksim, Osmanbey, Mecidiyekoy and Levent)
- Kirazli-Olimpiyat-Metrokent
- Kadikoy-Kartal

With the new Yenikapi line, it is possible for us to go from Taksim to Ataturk International Airport with transfers.

Marmaray is the newest "phenomenon" in Istanbul, but it is actually a metro, too. It goes under the Marmara Sea (but you don't see any scenes). Its stops are Ayrilik Cesmesi (near Kadikoy), Uskudar, Sirkeci, Yenikapi, Kazlicesme.

2. Metrobus


Here comes the most exciting!? transport in Istanbul. It is an adventure, if you want to sit. Be ready to actualize the "Survival of the fittest" principle. Joking aside, it is convenient (apart from working hours, of course.)

Metrobus lines in Istanbul:
- 34 Avcilar-Zincirlikuyu
- 34A Sogutlucesme-Cevizlibag
- 34C Beylikduzu-Cevizlibag
- 34G Beylikduzu-Sogutlucesme
- 34Z Zincirlikuyu-Sogutlucesme
- 34U Uzuncayir-Zincirlikuyu
- 34AS Avcilar-Sogutlucesme
- 34BZ Beylikduzu-Zincirlikuyu


A view from Mecidiyekoy. You can see the metrobus stop in the middle, then the bus stop. At the right of the road, the stairs going down takes you to the metro. The green area ahead is the sum of Armenian Catholic Graveyard and Italian Jewish Graveyard.

3. Tram



Tram is also quite convenient. But again, beware of the working hours. Then, beside from being crowded, it may stuck a little bit in the traffic jam.

Tram lines in Istanbul:
- Bagcilar-Kabatas (among its stops are Sultanahmet, Gulhane, Beyazit, Laleli and Aksaray)
- Taksim-Tünel Nostalgic Tram
- Kadikoy-Moda (also nostalgic)
- Topkapi-Habibler

4. Bus


Buses are very colourful in Istanbul, but their colours don't mean anything. Just look at the numbers. There are many local buses (too many to write here down). You can find the stops and schedules here: http://www.iett.gov.tr/en

Esenler Bus Terminal (Esenler Otogari) is the biggest bus terminal in Istanbul. Here, there are buses going to every province in Turkey. If you are going to get on transfer vehicles from Taksim, they usually take you to the closer Alibeykoy Bus Terminal, which was renewed recently and looks better than Esenler Bus Terminal. At Anatolian coast, you can go to Harem Bus Terminal and Salipazari Bus Terminal.

5. Minibus


Here is one of the most trickiest vehicles. Minibuses in Istanbul are almost equal to rollercoasters. No akbils and don't try to make jokes about it. Minibuses are usually blue. They take you to shorter distances and to smaller neighbourhoods. No akbils in minibuses and don't ever ask the drivers about it. Minibuses are blue in colour.

6. Dolmus


Dolmus is a yellow vehicle, bigger than taxis and can have 6-7 passengers. Dolmus lines accept no akbils, only cash. It is a comfortable vehicle, but it is more expensive than buses and others (still cheaper than taxis).

Dolmus lines in Istanbul:
- Kadikoy-Taksim
- Kadikoy-Nisantasi
- Kadikoy-Sisli
- Kadikoy-Bostanci
- Bostanci-Sisli
- Bostanci-Taksim (two types of this, one goes from "minibus" street, the other from the coastline)
- Bostanci-Pendik
- Sogutlucesme-Bostanci
- Uskudar-Kadikoy
- Uskudar-Baglarbasi
- Baglarbasi-Kadikoy
- Uskudar-Beykoz
- Uskudar-Baglarbasi-Erzurum Sitesi
- Uskudar-Cekmekoy
- Uskudar-Acıbadem
- Kadikoy-Cekmekoy
- Kadikoy-Beykoz
- Aksaray-Taksim
- Kocamustafa-Taksim
- Bakirkoy-Taksim
- Bakirkoy-Sisli
- Yenibosna-Taksim
- Besiktas-Harbiye
- Cevizlibag-Topkapı
- Cevizlibag-Taksim
- Topkapi-Taksim (Have in mind that this "Topkapi has nothing to do with "Topkapi Palace)
- Eminonu-Sisli
- Eminonu-Taksim
- Tesvikiye-Taksim
- Yesilkoy-Taksim

You can find the lines and fares here: http://www.saridolmus.com/tarifeler



7. Train


There is no inner city train lines nowadays. The railways are being rebuilt for the high speed train. Some speed trains started to operate, but their destinations are out of Istanbul. There used to be a Haydarpasa-Gebze line.

8. Funicular


Funicular lines are used as connections and they don't take more than 3-4 minutes. Taksim Tunel funicular line is the world's second oldest underground public transport. It is nice to be there at least once. Kabatas line begins 10 m below the sea, you'll see the signs about it.

Funicular lines in Istanbul:
- Taksim-Kabatas
- Karakoy-Beyoglu (Tunel)

9. Telpher


Telpher lines are also short, but they are rather scenic. They are touristic, but fare are the same as the public transport.

Tephers in Istanbul:
- Macka-Taskisla
- Eyup-Piyer Loti

10. Taxi


Taxis are one of the most expensive vehicles of transport. No akbils of course. We all need taxis at some time. Most taxi drivers do their job decently, but as a tourist, don't forget to take a look at the taximeter. Some taxi driver don't want to take you in for short distances. There is a complaint line for those problems. There is also a mobile app that helps you to call a taxi. By the way, in Istanbul taxis are yellow.

11. Steamship (Vapur)


No traffic, no cry. If you are not seasick (like me) this is the heavenly vehicle that offers you beautiful scenes, gives you the chance to meet seagulls and does those without entering traffic jams.

Steamship lines in Istanbul:
- Kadikoy-Eminonu
- Karakoy-Kadikoy
- Karakoy-Haydarpasa
- Uskudar-Eminonu
- Uskudar-Besiktas
- Kadikoy-Kabatas
- Halic Line
- From Bosphorus-To Bosphorus
- Sariyer-Anadolu Kavagi
- Kucuksu-Besiktas
- Cengelkoy-Istinye
- Kadikoy-Sariyer
- Kucuksu-Istinye
- Kabatas-Kadikoy-Adalar-Bostanci
- Bostancı-Adalar

There are also short and long Bosphorus tours. Don't confuse them with the touristic tours that begin from Eminonu. Touristic tours accept cash and they are more expensive than cityline steamboats.



12. Motorboat


Motorboats are faster and also more courageous than steamboats. Courageous, because they are the last thing to be cancelled in case of fog and other extreme weather conditions. Quick tip: If the weather is fine, sit upstairs and feel the air.

Motorboat lines in Istanbul:
- Eminonu-Kadikoy
- Karakoy-Kadikoy
- Karakoy-Uskudar
- Bostanci-Adalar (It may take you to particular islands, so check if your island is included)
- Kartal-Adalar (Prince Islands)
- Yesilkoy-Adalar
- Cinarcik-Kadikoy-Eminonu
- Eminonu-Cinarcik
- Eminonu-Esenkoy
- Eminonu-Kocadere
- Esenkoy-Kadikoy-Eminonu
- Kadikoy-Cınarcik
- Kadikoy-Esenkoy
- Kadikoy-Kocadere
- Eminonu-Armutlu
- Kadıkoy Armutlu



13. Ferry


Ferries are frequently used in Istanbul, especially by the car owners.

Ferry lines in Istanbul:
- Eskihisar-Topcular
- Sirkeci-Harem

Speed ferry lines:
- Yenikapi-Bursa
- Yenikapi-Bandirma
- Yenikapi-Yalova
- Pendik-Yalova

14. Seabus


Seabus is a little more expensive than steamships and motorboats, but it is definitely much more faster. If your focus is time, then this is your vehicle on sea.

Seabus lines in Istanbul:
- Bostanci-Kadikoy-Yenikapi-Bakirkoy
- Bostanci-Kabatas
- Adalar
- Bosphorus
- Maltepe-Bostanci-Kabatas-Bakirkoy
- Bostanci-Kadikoy-Yenikapi-Bakirkoy-Avcilar
- Kadikoy-Yenikapi-Armutlu-Bursa
- Kadikoy-Yenikapi-Bursa
- Bostanci-Yenikapi-Marmara-Avsa
- Kartal-Yalova

15. Sea Taxi


It's expensive for backpackers and students. If you have money and have really really no time, it may be very helpful. One of its advantages is that it can go anywhere on the coast, even to small piers. No akbils.

16. Seabird


It's kind of a fantasy transport (actually charters) and it needs reservation. If you have enough time and if you are a backpacker or student, you can find cheaper alternatives for the destinations it will take you.

17. Airplane


Istanbul has two big airports: Ataturk International Airport and Sabiha Gokcen Airport. Ataturk International Airport is one of busiest airports in Europe. Sometime it takes several minutes to find an available spot and land. Sabiha Gokcen Airport is relatively smaller, but it is also cheaper in terms of food and drink.

There is also a private airport, Hezarfen Airfield. It hosts big music events and youth festivals.

As mentioned above the metro goes to Ataturk International Airport with a couple transfers. There are public buses to Sabiha Gokcen Airport from Kadikoy. But if you like, there are inexpensive Havatas buses that takes you to both airports. Their terminal is at Elmadag, in front of Point Hotel.



18. Coach


Motor vehicles are forbidden at Prince Islands, so the vehicle at Buyukada, Heybeliada and Burgazada is the couch. However, because of the ruthless treatments to the horses, I recommend you not to use them. I always walk or rent a bike instead. There is no motor vehicle, after all!



You can also travel by rental car, by your car, by motorbike, by bike and on foot. But you should be extra careful when you are travelling by bike or on foot. Unfortunaly, majority of Istanbul drivers have nothing to do with traffic rules and most of them don't count bikes, even motorbikes, as transportation means.

Life is also hard for pedestrians. Crosswalks are usually ornaments, so don't trust them. Don't even trust the traffic lights, because the vehicles, especially taxis think it is possible to avoid them in order not to stop for a few more seconds.

Thursday 11 December 2014

Talimhane Hotels: The Address to Superfine Holidays

Talimhane is actually a neighbourhood of Beyoglu. It is very close to Taksim Square and Gezi Park. Talimhane was once an exercise place for the army. Today it serves an entirely different purpose. It hosts many superfine hotels. You can also find fine restaurants around.

The list of hotels at the entrance near Gezi Park.

There are many hotels at Talimhane. Not all of them may be suitable for backpackers and students, but you can check them out for they are so central. There are boutique hotels, 4 star hotels, 5 star hotels and luxurious hotels. When you walk straight from this entrance to the end of the road, you'll reach Tarlabasi. Some Tarlabasi hotels are also counted as Talimhane hotels, because Talimhane doesn't have strict borders and it is okay that way.

Only pedestrians!

Talimhane is closed to traffic. So it is fun to walk around. You can go there by any means that takes you to Taksim Square. It is only one or two minutes walk from the square. By the way, you see the "P" of the Point Hotel at the right of the picture. And the right of it, there are Havatas buses that takes you to either Ataturk International Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport (with a fair price).

Thursday 4 December 2014

General Tips About Istanbul

There are many tips about Istanbul. Here some of them I remembered at first thought.

Is Istanbul Tap Water Drinkable?


Here's one of the first things I search for before I go to a city. As for Istanbul, don't drink tap water. Use it just for cleaning. You can buy table water from markets at very reasonable prices.



Is the Traffic Jam Really Bad in Istanbul?


Traffic is one of the first things that requires to keep your eyes open. Unfortunately in Istanbul, everyone is in a hurry, especially the drivers. Unlike other cities in Europe, etc. pedestrians don't have priority at traffic, although they should. The tip here is that: Look both at traffic lights and the cars. Wait for all the cars to stop. And don't trust the pedestrian crossing, because most drivers are unaware the meaning of it. Try not to argue drivers about this, because some of them may be unexpectedly aggressive.

Should I Bargain Whenever I Buy Something?


Bargain with the seller when you like to buy something, especially a traditional carpet, etc. They may take the prices a little high, so there is almost always a chance for a discount.

Are There Some Tricks I Shouldn't Fall For?


Don't believe in shoeshine boys when they drop their brush and offer to shine your shoes. Try to say no, if you don't want to pay high prices. After they shine your shoes, you don't have much chance to refuse to pay money.

Is Istanbul Safe?


Istanbul and especially central places, don't pose danger to women or men. But people aren't the same and you can come across strange people at any part of the world. If you feel like you're being followed, try to find a crowded place or walk in a market and stores like that. If the person is too close, you may try to turn back suddently and start to scream. These people are usually very coward and the dwellers are usually helpful.

I don't mean to scare you and I've never been in such situation, but carry a couple of cigarettes and 1 liras with you in case a thinner addict asks you. They don't mean to do harm, they may be furious about being rejected. So be prapered. As I said, it is rare but being cautious won't hurt you.

Monday 1 December 2014

Gezi Park: The Rebellious Park of Istanbul

Gezi Park would probably be just another park in a city, if it hadn't hosted the greatest "social" demonstration in the history of Turkey. "It all started with a tree", you would hear. But when the police used disproportionate force against peaceful protesters who wanted to protect Gezi Park from becoming barracks, things went crazy. For a couple of months, flying gas canisters were a usual scene from Taksim to Galata and to Harbiye, and also at Kadikoy. It is worth to remind that despite fierce political sayings, the park is still there, safe and sound, and I'm glad to tell you about it.



The History of Gezi Park


When you see Gezi Park, you may find it small in comparision with other parks at other big cities in the world. But the park's newly assigned historical significance makes it larger than life. However, it doesn't mean the only historical memory of the park.

Let's start with earlier records. The area including Gezi Park, Divan Hotel (the hotel next to the park that let the protestors in when the violence was at its peak), Hyatt Regency Hotel, and some parts of Istanbul Radyoevi (broadcasting house) and Harbiye Orduevi (military museum and cultural center of command) was Pancaldi Armenian Graveyard, or Surp Agop Graveyard. (Surp Agop Apartment still exists, but the hospital was demolished last year and the apartment serves as a polyclinic. The graveyard being at the opposite of the hospital was plausible indeed.) The land was given to Armenians in about 1560, when there was a plague. From then on, it was used as a graveyard.

At that time, Pancaldi, Harbiye and Elmadag was considered as being outside the city. The "core" Istanbul was approximately the part where today Eminonu, Karakoy, Galata and Pera (the far end of Istiklal Street). So, the dead was allowed to be buried only outside Istanbul. In 1853, it was confined with walls. In 1856, the name plate was put. In 1865, with the cholera epidemic, burial processes were banned due to its "proximity" to the city. (Things change.)

In 1872, the municipality comandeer the area but Sultan Abdulaziz enacted an addict announcing it belonged to Armenians. In 1926, the burial processes were entirely banned and it was decided that the graveyard was to be transferred to some other place. In 1931, Istanbul Municipality that the land should be assigned to it. The case was closed in 1934 and the large part was given to the municipality. In 1938, it was announced that the graveyard would be demolished and fifteen days were given to transfer the graves, if interested.

The yellow building is Divan Hotel.

In 1939, the graveyard was totally demolished, along with Khor Virap Church. The gravestones were used for the stairs of Yeni Cami (New Mosque) in Eminonu, and for the stairs of Gezi Park, which was being built at that time.

Let's move to another historical part. In 1806, Halil Pasa Topcu Kislasi (Halil Pasha Artillery Barracks) was built at today's Gezi Park. At 31 March Incident, it became the headquarters of rebels who were -in brief- in favour of sharia, and against more liberal policies of Ittihak Terakki Cemiyeti, Party of Union and Progress. (Maybe, things never change.) The rebellion was suppressed by the army.

As Beyoglu (the district which also comprises Taksim, in case you're confused) developed towards Sisli, the barracks lost its function and it became a stadium in 1922. Henry Proust, the controversial city planner, offered authorities a plan that involved Nisantasi, Harbiye, Dolmabahce and Gezi Park. In 1940, after the stadium was demolished, Gezi Park became the first park of the Republic (of which steps were carried from the demolished graveyard).

Well, it isn't a coincidence for Gezi Park to host such heated protests.

Those were the days, my friend.


Where is Gezi Park?


Gezi Park is stuated close to Taksim Square, which is unfortunately a big gray gap nowadays. If you put Taksim on your front, the left road will take you to Macka and ultimately to Besiktas or Kabatas. The right road will take you to Elmadag and Harbiye with a ten minute walk, or Nisantasi with a fifteen minute walk. If you like, you can take the metro from Taksim and go to Osmanbey (adjecent to Nisantasi), Sisli, Mecidiyekoy and further stations.

The bus stations were carried under ground to save Taksim from traffic (and probably with frustration due to the cancellation of "new Taksim" plan). It's a little tricky right now. If you want to get on the buses which passes from Besiktas (and to the coastline, that is Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Tarabya, Sariyer, etc., or the Anatolian coast, that is Kadikoy, Bostanci, etc.), you should walk left from the Gezi Park for a while to reach the bus station next to Ataturk Library. If you like to get on a bus which passes from Sishane (to Karakoy, Eminonu, Aksaray, Beyazit, Laleli, Bayrampasa Main Bus Station, Ataturk International Airport, etc.), you should walk down to the station which has an entrance facing Gezi Park. It seems complicated at the first time. It really is. Once I gave up to meet my friend at Kadikoy.

As I mentioned above, Gezi Park is relatively small. You can walk around in ten minutes at best. However, if you sit on a bench or cobblestones, it will take hours to contemplate on its history.


Friday 28 November 2014

Babil Street is Unlike Any Street You Know

Babil Street (Babil Sokak) is not the first place to read when you're searching for Istanbul. But it is one of the most vibrant streets in Elmadag, Istanbul, very close to Taksim.

Babil is the Turkish word for Babylon. You know Babylon was an ancient civilization that was famous for various nationalities of its inhabitants. Contemporary Babil almost represents its predecessor (except that it doesn't have a tower but series of buildings).

What is special about this street? Well, let me tell you my story shortly. About ten years ago, when I was working for a small publishing house in Cagaloglu (a district next to Sultanahmet), my boss wanted me to deliver some books here in Babil Street. I fell in love with the street then. Here I am now, with a little coincidence. After more than two years, I have never been bored and I don't think I ever will.

Babil Street is special for many reasons, especially for what it is and where it is.



What is Babil Street?


Babil Street is actually a very crowded and loudy street. But its elements merge in such harmony that you get addicted to the action. It's one of the rare places that you'll hear at least five languages (English, German, Arabic, Italian, Chinese, etc.) when you woke up, street cats fighting each other (Istanbul has lots of cats and Babil Sokak is no exception), sometimes people arguing but mostly Erasmus students laughing.

It looks mostly traditional with three or four storey apartments, women hanging down baskets for their market orders, children playing and youth talking on the street. It also looks contemporary with newly built suites. While the parallel streets are almost ghostly, in Babil Street you can find any shops you'd like to. From a tailor, a dry-cleaning, a locksmith, several markets, photographers to restaurants, a barbershop, a hairdresser, a real estate agency, stationeries, a baker, a drug store and many more.

These are only on the street at the enterance level. Try to imagine what may be above enterance. (Travel agencies are just one example.) And an entrepreneurial landlady owns a place where she cooks Spanish food with her husband. Babil Sokak is full of surprises!

Babil Street is also interesting in terms of religion. The first street intersecting Babil Sokak, Papa Roncalli Sokak, houses St. Esprit Cathedral within the confines of Notre Dame de Sion, a French high school. (It's also close to the Vatican Embassy.) The second street intersecting Babil Sokak, Harbiye Cayiri Sokak, houses a mosque at the basement of an apartment and a loudspeaker on the top.



Where is Babil Street?


Babil Street is in Elmadag, Sisli, Istanbul. It is ten minute walk to and from Taksim and Gezi Park, and Nisantasi and Tesvikiye the other way round.

If you are an expat in Istanbul, you'll probably go to work easily with buses or the subway. Business districts, such as Mecidiyekoy, Gayrettepe, Levent and Maslak are a couple of stations away from here.

It takes five minutes to walk to Dolapdere. It is not as a safe district as Harbiye or Elmadag, but nothing will likely happen in day light and early in the evening. Some famous cargos and some big hotels are here, and it is a quiet alternative to walk home than Cumhuriyet Street.

By foot, you can also go to Muhsin Ertugrul Theatre Hall, Lutfi Kirdar International Congress and Exhibition Hall, Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall and Kucukciftlik Park.

Where to Stay?


There are no big hotels at Babil Street. But it hosts several cosy suites that Erasmus students and travels at any age choose to stay. Any part of the street is favourable to stay. You can learn about the suites from travellers who stayed there. Babil Sokak and generally Elmadag (I'm inclined to say here is a part of Harbiye). I think prices are lower than Taksim, but not lower than any other non-touristic place in Istanbul.

I hope you enjoy Babil Street and the surprises it offers to you!

Monday 24 November 2014

8 Best Shopping Malls in Istanbul

Shopping mall is "alisveris merkezi" in Turkish. There are so many shopping malls in Turkey and more are added continuously. So, it's better to sort out some of them. That's my personal list. I considered the accessibility, the number of shops and restaurants, and the amount of quality time that can be spent. (Almost all shopping malls have cinema halls, so I won't tell about them individually.)

1. Istinye Park


Istinye Park is one of the best designed shopping mall in Turkey. It has a large variety of shops from less luxurious to more luxurious. The characteristic of the mall is the market place on the ground floor. You can find high quality coffees, olive oils, dried fruits and nuts, jams, pastry and many more. Take the metro to the ITU station, then walk about five minutes, there you are.

2. Kanyon


Kanyon is both an indoor and outdoor mall. You can walk along the open "streets" and enjoy the fresh air in contrast to other shopping malls. It has a small concert area at the ground floor. This one may be a little bit pricey, so if you don't have the budget you can prefer its neighbour, Metro City. Both are at 1. Levent. Get off the metro at Levent Station. You'll see them ahead at a few minute distance.

3. City's Nisantasi


City's Nisantasi is one of the smallest malls in Istanbul. But its location and tranquil atmosphere makes it a nice alternative. There is "Mahalle" (Neighbourhood) at the top floor. There are restorants at Mahalle and the setting is quite cosy. If you are staying at Harbiye and Taksim, it is just a walk away.



4. Trump Towers


Yes, the name comes from Donald Trump. This is a very central and decent mall, too. At noon, it's packed with white-collar employees. (Mecidiyekoy comprises many many offices.) It has some kind of water decoration at the enterance and some quality restaurants. You can reach there by the metro and the metrobus, then you'll go on foot. Directions are written everywhere, so it won't be hard for you to find it.



5. Zorlu Center


Zorlu Center is fairly a new mall. It has both less luxurious and more luxurious part. It has a hall that host classical and quality concerts. You can reach there by the metro (Gayrettepe station) or the metrobus (Zincirlikuyu station). In any case you will walk for a while to reach the enterance.

6. Istanbul Cevahir AVM


Istanbul Cevahir is one of the biggest malls of Istanbul. It is located in Mecidiyekoy and is even more central than the Trump Towers. It is usually overcrowded and very loud. So, in my opinion, do your shopping and run to the top floor which is less loud and comprises nice restaurants and cafés.


And the last two mall are from the Anatolian coast.

7. Akasya


Akasya is the luxurious shopping mall (probably an equivalent to Zorlu Center). Kartal-Kadikoy metro has Acibadem station which takes you there. If you are staying near that metro, it's a viable alternative for shopping.

8. Kozzy


Kozzy won an award for the best European mall in 2011. It is rather small, but the use of space is very professional. If you are staying near Kozyatagi or Erenkoy, you can walk here. There are theatre halls on the top floor. All the plays are in Turkish, but if you like, you can but tickets to watch them.

Thursday 20 November 2014

Cuteness Alert! Cats of Istanbul

Cats of Istanbul is one of the first things you'll realize, even before the sights. Cats are a characteristic of Istanbul. You can see cats at any corner and at any street. Most of these cats are very friendly (as our blog is) and let you to stroke their heads and backs.

If you visit Istanbul you are lucky in two ways: you'll see the judas trees bloom and new kittens walk around. Every spring I feel like going crazy when I see those cuties. I visit particularly Nisantasi Demokrasi Park for feline reasons.



I have dozens of photos that I had difficulty to filter out. Some cats are more friendly, some cats run away. But what they have in common is that they are all so photogenic! So, unfortunately I can only share a few of them.

1. Nisantasi cats


These are my favourites. As I mentioned above, there are always new cats wandering every spring. Nisantasi residents are very nice to cats. Cats here have specially built residences, I would say "feline villas". They are never hungry thanks to generous people who bring cat food every day.



You can see these comfortable cats at Nisantasi Demokrasi Park, at the yard of Harbiye Military Museum and Cultural Center Commend and at the streets. Some kittens are taken home by the dwellers.

A cat selfie?

2. Bosphorus cats


By Bosphorus cats I actually mean Bosphorus University cats. Most cats are under the care and protection of academicians. The cats wanter in and out of the faculties. It's very common to attend a lecture with a cat on the chair next to you :)

Bosphorus University is founded on a vast area and has a garden covered with grass. If I were a cat, I would deem it the heaven on earth. The students are also mostly cat lovers. They share their foods and spend times with the cats.



You can come across these cuties everywhere, but unfortunately some people are hard on the cats and most drivers are careless of them (and of other animals, and humans). You can take a wounded cat to a veterinary or if it is extremely afraid, you can make it feel safe.

Tuesday 18 November 2014

The Street That Never Sleeps: Istiklal Street

Istiklal Street, or Istiklal Avenue, is between the Taksim Square and the Tunnel (the second oldest in the world). Istiklal Avenue is famous for its night life, but it has many attractions that shouldn't be missed at daytime. Although the street is losing its essence year by year, it seems that it will not lose its top 10 position in Istanbul.

Istanbul is a great metropolis with lots of interesting things, but Istiklal Street is probably the most colorful part of it. You can play authentic entruments, sing in any language you want, wear a Napoleon costume. You can go drunk, or go mad. That's why Istiklal Street is still one of my favorite streets, despite the meaningless gray concrete of the Taksim Square and attempts to ban alcoholic beverages.



Istiklal Street houses restaurants, bars, shops, bookstores, cinemas, passages, cultural centers, embassies (that's actually why Istiklal Street was made for, wait for the history section) and many more. It is almost impossible to get bored here. Here there are also a lot of activities and gatherings are going on throughout the year.

A little warning: You will learn the meaning of "crowded" here, especially you're walking at the weekend. You should be careful about pickpockets, but it doesn't mean that there is a pickpocket at every corner. Just being careful would be enough. And don't believe the people who invite you a place assert to be great for the tourists, or you'll probably learn the meaning of "expensive".



History


A little bit history will show why Istiklal Street is different than the other parts of Istanbul. Istiklal Street has a very long-standing past. First appearance of the city is after Byzantium era. At that time Galata was a Genovese colony (and the Galata Tower is a Genovese structure.), but the part that Istiklal Street lies today wasn't.

The old city of Istanbul is actually is actually Suriçi (the historical peninsula), which includes Sultanahmet, Topkapı and Eminonu. (Although my grandmother lived in Istanbul, she would say "I'm going to Istanbul" when she was going to Eminonu.) The opposite and newer part of the Peninsula was called Pera (the part over Karakoy and Galata.)



Originally Pera consisted wineyards, orchards and couple of houses. After Ottomans got hold of the city, the trade of Galata developed dramatically. As Latins grew more crowded, they had to find new residences, one of which was Pera. The more the trade developed, the more migrants came from the historical peninsula, including colonies of Venice, Pisa and Amalfi, the French, the Netherlander and the English.

Today Istiklal Street houses lots of embassies which were places at that time. You can see most of them while walking down the street. Beautiful buildings indeed. But you won't probably enter and take photos, because it's forbidden. The embassies and consulates at Istiklal Street are France, Netherlands, Sweden, Russia, England, and the near ones are Italy, Germany and Greece.

Sights


Let's return to present and start from the beginning next to the Taxim Square, and learn about some of the important/interesting buildings or places.

Holy Trinity Church (Aya Triada Kilisesi): When you are about to enter Istiklal Street from Taksim Square, you will see the dome and the towers of this church. I would like to say "the whole of it" but there are some ugly buildings in front of it. There are some petitions to demolish them, so the chuch will show it's glory, but for now you can enter there from the side street. It is an eastern orthodox church. According to the tablet in front of the building, the date it was built is September 14th, 1880.



French Consulate and Cultural Center: This plain and nice building is not only for visas. It has a cosy restaurant and cafe in it. If you want to learn French, here is the place. There is also a cinema hall where you can watch selected movies (not the movies in theatres).

Çiçek Pasajı (originally Cité de Péra, literally Flower Passage): This gorgeous and famous passage was built after the big Beyoglu fire in the place of Naum Theatre in 1876. It had 24 shops and 18 luxurious apartments. In 1908 the owner changed. Lots of flower shops were opened the armistice years and so the name changed. In 1940's the pubs started to attract numerous customers. Today it is mostly remembered by its pubs, but pubs that are usually preferred by intellectuals, writers and artists. It had collapsed all of a sudden in 1978 and it wasn't rebuilt until 1988. The façade of the building is one of the most decorative ones at Istiklal Street and the interior is just as good as that. The prices may be a little bit high, but entering and taking photos are free.



Galatasaray Lisesi (Galatasaray Highschool): Galatasaray Lisesi is importand both historically and touristically. It is in the middle of Istiklal Street and many people meet there (another famous meeting point is Burger King, the one next to the square). It is one of the oldest educational institution in Turkey and the education language is French. You won't probably be able to enter the building, but you can watch its huge doors, reminding its glorious days.



Cezayir Street (Algerian Street): It is also called French Street. It is a nice narrow street with lovely building and cosy pubs. As for me, it looks like a street in a small European city.




Hacopulo Passage (Hazzopulo Passage): There are many historical passages at Istiklal Street: Çiçek Pasajı (as mentioned above), Rumeli Passage, Atlas Passage, Halep Passage, Aznavur Passage, Suriye (Syrian) Passage, Elhamra Passage, Markiz Passage, Avrupa (European) Passage. But Hazzopulo is an outdoor passage with teahouses stuffed with the youth. There are also second-hand booksellers and many old stores (Madam Katia Hats, wine house, and so on) that matches well with the nostalgic atmosphere.



Church of St. Anthony of Padua: This is the biggest church in Istanbul, in terms of the building and the congregation. It was first built on Galata in 1230 under the name of Saint François. It was burnt down two times in 1639 and 1660. After 1696, the church was moved to Pera and named as St. Anthony. The architecture of the church is very stunning indeed. The church with red brick façade was built in the place of the old one in 1906 and was opened to worship in 1912. The style is Italian Neo-Gothic. The shape is Latin Crucifix. There is an entrance with two buldings for the sake of the church. You will see this 38 meter long entrance first, then the yard and the church.



Mısır Apartment (Misir Apartimani): Apartman is the Turkish word for apartment. When it is written "apartimani", it is an older spelling and means that you're about the deal an old apartment. It is the neighbour of the Church of St. Anthony of Padua. When the Trocadero Theatre was demolished in 1910, Misirli Abbas Halim Pasha (Misirli = Egyptian) built this apartment as winter mansion. It is one of the first reinforced concrete in Istanbul. There are offices, restaurants, art galleries and many more.

Church of St. Mary Draperis: This church is a little bit hidden compared to the Church of St. Anthony of Padua. You go down some stairs before entering the church. It was established in 1584. It is an old Catholic Roman Parish, actually one of the oldest in Istanbul. The church has a neoclassical enterance that with a little statue of Virgin Mary. This can be seen on the street, but to see the square plan of the church, you have to enter from the gates.



Narmanli Inn (Narmanli Han): This beautiful building was built in 1831. It was used as Russian Embassy until 1880 and Russian prison until 1914, then became a property of Narmanli Family and used as a residence. It hosted many famous writers and artists, including Ahmet Hamdi Tanpinar, the writer of magnificent novel, The Time Regulation Institute (Saatleri Ayarlama Enstitüsü).



Crimean Memorial Church: It is an Anglican Church situated on the Kumbaraci Yokusu. It was built as a memorial for Crimean War in 1868. It has a Neo-Gothic style. Today its congregation is Sri Lankan and Far Eastern.

Asmalimescit: Asma means grapevine, mescit means small mosque, alltogether "the small mosque with grapevines". Because Bayezid II had had a mescit built there. And some time at recent history there was a brothel there (how ironic), so my parents didn't like the idea of me going to the Istiklal Street. But the reality is it was gone with the wind before I even heard of it. I cannot spend much time in Asmalimescit anyway, for the fear that food and drink may be pricy (especially for students). For cheaper drinking options, you can take a look at Nevizade or Kucuk Beyoglu (Little Beyoglu).

Transportation


Istiklal Street is closed to the traffic. The transportation vehicle on the street is the nostalgic tram. It is usually too crowded, so I always prefer going on foot. You can use Sishane metro to reach the other end or just walk down there. But unless there is a storm or a police interference, I don't think it's necessary and boring then walking on the street.

You will probably have no difficulty to arrive at Istiklal Street. As Taksim is a very central place (in fact, more central than the old city), you can either come from Beyazit and Laleli, or from the Anatolian coast, Kadiköy and Bostanci. And good news: The metro line from Aksaray to Yenikapi has just opened. From Atatürk International Airport, you can directly come to Istiklal Street.



Where to Stay


There are many hotels at Istiklal Street, and some are very luxurious. Not so luxurious ones may also be somewhat expensive from hotels situated in other districts. You may try Elmadag, Harbiye and Pangalti (Pancaldi) hotels for price comparison. Nisantasi and Tesvikiye may be as expensive, but if you are willing to walk for a while or take a taxi, Fulya is also a pretty alternative. Karakoy hotels and Eminonu hotels are close to both Taksim and Sultanahmet. There are also some hostels there.


Monday 17 November 2014

Hi everyone! Interested in İstanbul?

Curious about Istanbul? Then, here you are at the right place. We will tell you about Istanbul, but from the eye of a friend. We are two sisters who will write this blog. We are living in Istanbul since we were born. Even to us, Istanbul has still unexplored places, untasted foods, roads of which we haven’t yet taken photographs. We will learn as we write, we will share as we learn.

Maybe it's your first time in Istanbul, or you have been Istanbul before, liked it so much, and want to visit there again. This blog goes for all of you! Our aim is to be your guide before and during your Istanbul trip, and show you alternatives apart from cliché routes. While we are doing this, we will tell you about sights, food and drink, shopping, transportation, accomodation, activities and districts, and give you some quick tips.

You can always share us your questions, offers, worries, excitement via the comments or the social media, and we will respond you and help you as soon as possible.

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