The Old City of Istanbul: Sultanahmet
Istanbul is different than the European cities. It has several centers and the attractions are scattered all around the city. However, the best possible option for the old city is generally the historical peninsula (which includes Sultanahmet, Eminonu, Karakoy), and particularly the Sultanahmet district.
Sultanahmet has a very old and interesting history. It was used by the Ottoman people and the sultans as a center of trade and socialization. Today when some old people say "I'm going to Istanbul", they mean the historical peninsula.
Where is Sultanahmet?
Sultanahmet is in Fatih, but you won't need to visit Fatih's center. Shortly: On the north, Binbirdirek (where the cistern is). On the west, Kucuksayasofya (Small Hagia Sophia, there is also a sight with the same name). On the east, Cankurtaran (near the archaelogical museum, there are traditional old houses. Also on the east, Bosphorus. It is also near Cagaloglu, which was the heart of book market, before the big bookstores, the internet and the e-book. And near Gulhane, where Gulhane Park, Topkapi Palace and Istanbul Archaelogical Museum are.
It is very easy to go there, transportaion means are vast. The easiest way to Sultanahmet is the Kabatas tram. You'll get of the tram at Sultanahmet station. There are also English announcements in the tram. When you hear the sexy voice saying Blue Mosque, you are there. If you get off on the wrong stop, don't worry. The distances are reasonable, so you can easily walk back and by that time you can look around you. If you like, you can walk from Eminonu, Sirkeci and Karakoy. If you walk from Karakoy, you will walk on the Galata Bridge. There you can see the part of the Golden Horn.
What is in Sultanahmet?
1. Sultanahmet Square
The most famous part of Sultanahmet is Sultanahmet Square. In the Byzantium area, it was known as Hippodrome, which means the area of horses and riders. The Ottamans used to call it "the Horse Square". There are many sight there (to be elaborated below), including three obelisks, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, German Fountain, and many traditional shops reminiscent of the old market place.
2. Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia has always been an important religious center. It was built as a church. After the Conquest of Istanbul, it was converted into a mosque. Today it is a museum, but there are disputes that it should be a museum and be open to worship. But I think it should stay as a museum, or should be a church, as it used to be. (There are enough mosques and the splendid Blue Mosque is already a few meters far.)
This Hagia Sophia is actually the third one. Previous two were destroyed during the riots. There are some marble ruins from the second one. Hagia Sophia had many fresks, but they were covered with Islamic symbols, when it converted into a mosque. The red stone which gives the masterpiece its colour was brought from Egypt (green from Greece, white marble from Marmara Island of Balikesir, yellow from Syria, black from Istanbul). Hagia Sophia's architecture is creative for its time. Different solutions were tried to hold the huge dome.
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| This is a newer photo. |
3. Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
Sultan Ahmet Camii, or Blue Mosque, was ordered by the Ottoman Sultan Ahmed I and the architect was Sedefkar Mehmet Aga. It is called the Blue Mosque, because it was (and is) decorated with blue, green and white tiles, and the big and the half domes were decorated with mainly blue engravings. One of the most important things about it is that there are 20.000 Iznik tiles in it. There are buildings adjacent to it: madrasahs, shops, Turkish baths, fountains, graves, etc. It is actually one of the biggest complexes in Istanbul.
4. Yerebatan Sarnici (Basilica Cistern)
As mentioned above, this is not exactly on Sultanahmet Square, but it is so close that I have never felt it belongs to somewhere else than Sultanahmet. It is the biggest closed cistern in Istanbul. It is from Byzantian time. You get in from a small building on the west of Hagia Sophia. You have to pay for the ticket, because today it is a museum, not a cistern as before. There are two Medusa heads inside, one is upside down. There are differently decorated columns. A single unique, green column is called the teardrop stone. People put their thumb on it, make a full circle while making a wish. There is a restaurant and small souvenir shops down there, but they may be a little pricy. Some people throw changes into the low water in order to make their wishes come to true. It is totally up to you. Beware, the humidity can be problematic for asthma patients.
5. Alman Cesmesi (German Fountain)
German Fountain is situated opposite of the tomb of Ahmed I. This fountain was actually brought from Germany. The marbles and precious stones were brought in pieces and brought together in Istanbul. It is a present of Wilhelm. Its style is Neo-Byzantian. It is decorated with golden mosaics on the inside. There are Ottoman inscription on the fountain.
6. Obelisk of Theodosius
When you say "dikilitas (obelisk)" at Sultanahmet, people will directly understand this one, although there are two more. It was brought from Egypt by the Roman Emperor Theodosius I in 390 AC. This magnificent obelisk has great hieroglyphs on it. The obelist stands on 4 columns over a stone block. The block has reliefs on two sides, and Greek and Latin inscriptions on the other two sides.
7. Serpent Column
This is one of the oldest artifacts from Hippodrome that has endured -at least, partly. It originally had three serpent heads at the top. But today all are broken and only one of them is displayed at Istanbul Archaelogical Museum. It was made after the victory of Greek cities against Persian army in 479 BC, and it was erected at Apollo Temple in Dephi. Emperor Constantine brought the obelisk to Istanbul in 324. It was thought to have magical powers, such as protecting the city against insects and reptiles.
8. Walled Obelisk (Constantine Obelisk)
This 32 meter obelisk will immediately get your attention. Constantine VII ordered it to be restorated, but as its date is unknown, the obelisk has been attributed to him since 10th century. It is thought to be coated with gilded bronze plaques and to have a sphere at the top.
9. Firuz Aga Mosque
This mosque was ordered by Firuz Aga, the chief keeper of treasury of Bayezid II. It dates back to 1491. It was built in Bursa style. It has a single minaret on the left.
10. Museums
Such a historical place like Sultanahmet cannot be thought without museums. My favorite is Turkish-Islamic Arts Museum. It is very well arranged and you can see important historical works of art from different dates. There are calligraphy, rugs and tiles. The building was built in 1524 and was then the palace of Pargali Ibrahim Pasha (at the time of Suleiman the Magnificent). Great Palace Mosaic Museum is at Arasta Bazaar. The entrance is a little hidden compared to other museums. The mosaics are from the Great Palace of Constantinople, which is unfortunately destroyed except a few pieces.
What About Gulhane?
Gulhane is actually is another district, but it is very close to Sultanahmet and an old city tour cannot be thought without it. Therefore I will mention there shortly. Gulhane Park is one of the city parks of Istanbul, like Gezi Park. In the park, you can visit Istanbul Museum of History of Science and Technology in Islam. The museum is well organized, but have in mind to see almost no original pieces.
Topkapi Palace is world famous. It is huge, so spare at least half a day to see the whole palace. It has different parts that may not be open when you go. Some parts may demand extra fee than the one you pay at the enterance, such as the treasury and the harem. Topkapi Palace also houses the fourth biggest diamond in the world, the Spoonmaker's Diamond. Remember, Topkapi Palace isn't in Topkapi. Topkapi is an utterly differet district where there are mainly industrial stuff (and no attractions at all).
Istanbul Archaelogical Museums have three parts that are together on a big area: Archaelogical Museum (main building), Museum of the Ancient Orient, and the Museum of Islamic Art. It was founded by the famous painter and museum curator Osman Hamdi Bey. These are one of my favourites around the world. It is one of the biggest museums in the world, indeed.
The first thing you'll be told is "Sultanahmet meatball". One restaurant is the original one, but it is always so crowded that you can try the other one that makes also good meatballs in a traditional atmosphere. You can eat the traditional dishes and drink the traditional drinks, but some restaurants may be pricy due to the touristic rush. I also like boiled or grilled corn sold by peddlars. Don't forget to compare the prices. There are also restaurant chains that can be found anywhere in Istanbul. I'd rather to try traditional tastes. You can check the restaurant from the apps you have on you mobile phone, if you cannot trust where you are about to sit.
The rule is also applicable here: compare the prices. There are many souvenir shops with lots of traditional stuff. Don't look so eager and don't hesistate to bargain. Pretend to be going away. The prices will probably fall down. Carpets are very widespread, but handwoven ones may really be expensive. If you don't understand whether the carpet is handwoven or not, it is possible that you buy a machine-woven carpet at the price of a handwoven one. In my opinion, if you are not a passionate collector, try little souvenirs, like magnets and postcards that are cheaper and safer.
What to eat at Sultanahmet?
The first thing you'll be told is "Sultanahmet meatball". One restaurant is the original one, but it is always so crowded that you can try the other one that makes also good meatballs in a traditional atmosphere. You can eat the traditional dishes and drink the traditional drinks, but some restaurants may be pricy due to the touristic rush. I also like boiled or grilled corn sold by peddlars. Don't forget to compare the prices. There are also restaurant chains that can be found anywhere in Istanbul. I'd rather to try traditional tastes. You can check the restaurant from the apps you have on you mobile phone, if you cannot trust where you are about to sit.
What to buy from Sultanahmet?
The rule is also applicable here: compare the prices. There are many souvenir shops with lots of traditional stuff. Don't look so eager and don't hesistate to bargain. Pretend to be going away. The prices will probably fall down. Carpets are very widespread, but handwoven ones may really be expensive. If you don't understand whether the carpet is handwoven or not, it is possible that you buy a machine-woven carpet at the price of a handwoven one. In my opinion, if you are not a passionate collector, try little souvenirs, like magnets and postcards that are cheaper and safer.
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| A cat sleeping on the products of a traditional store. |
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