Cagaloglu: The Neighbourhood of Real Book Worms

Here is the neighbourhood where I worked for six month. I liked it, because it was full of books, and it was both close to Sultanahmet, the historical centre and Sirkeci, the port of ferries that took me Kadikoy.

History

According to travel book of Evliya Celebi, Cagaloglu used to be a neighbourhood with Grandee Palaces. At the end of 16th century, the palace of the grand vizier of the time, Cigalizade Sinan Pasha was here. Locals started to call it Cigaloglu (oglu means son in Turkish, and zade means son in Ottoman Turkish). Then it became Cagaoglu.

Beginning from 18th century, Cagaloglu became the centre of Ottoman bureaucracy. After 1870's, it became the centre of Turkish press.

Sights

Ottoman Porte (Bab-ı Ali): Bab-i Ali is the name given to the palace of the grand vizier. It means roughly "the Supreme Gate", but it usually refers to the whole building. The building was built in 1756. It witnessed a historical raid, which gradually added up to the downfall of Ottoman Empire.


Book Stores and Publishing Houses: Many writers before 80's tell about how Cagaoglu was important in their lives. Cagaloglu was then the centre of literature and books. People used to look forward to new books that will come here before anywhere else. Famous writers and youngsters who wanted to draw inspiration from them would gather here in cafés, book stores and publishing houses. With the new technology and big book stores in malls, Cagaloglu unfortunately lost favour. Even if it lost its air today, there are still many book stores, publishing houses and second hand book sellers here. You can buy anything about papers (invitation cards, etc.) with fair prices.

Iranian Consulate: This is the only consulate at the old city. Others are at Pera on or near Istiklal Street. The building is rather elegant, but I don't know whether you can take a photo of it. Consulates generally bans taking their photos.

Cagaloglu Turkish Bath: This is the biggest double bath of Istanbul. It is close to Basilica Cistern. It was built in 1740 or 1741. It is still operating. You can call the bath, make reservations and ask for the prices.


It is easy to get to Cagaloglu. You can walk up from Sirkeci or take the tram (but there isn't a Cagaloglu stop). You can also walk a couple streets down from Sultanahmet.

There isn't restaurants or hotels at Cagaloglu, but Sultanahmet, Sirkeci and Eminonu being so close, you won't need to search for them.